Buying new rotors - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

I'm getting some pulsing from the right front side of my brake rotor. Pretty sure there both burned so I'm looking to buy some new ones. I would like to up grade but I don't want to go all out on racing set. (budget concerns) I'm looking for some drilled and slotted rotors for more stopping power. I would love some idea's and recommendation ? Thanks guys.

How are you using your car - canyon carver / spirited driver or DE car? If a canyon carver, drilled rotors are OK. If you use it for DEs, focus on slotted only as drilled rotors will crack easier around the drilled holes due to the extra heat. If you're doing DEs and your rotors have warped, give this tip a try. When you get done with a session, slowly drive some of the track access roads to cool your brakes, using them as little as possible. Many organizations want you off the track as fast as possible when they give you the checkered flag. It's not supposed to be a cool down lap. They want you off so they can get the next run group out. If you come blasting off the track and then immediately park your car in the paddock, your rotors will warp because your pads are still hot and they're cooking the rotor, creating hot spots, while the pads cool off. Driving a few min on the access roads will allow the pads to cool down, saving the rotors when you park. You don't have to drive fast to cool them down. I drive in 2nd gear so I can go around any corners w/o having to use my brakes. I recommend access roads and not the paddock for cool down as the paddock is busy with cars and ppl who may not see you, so you don't want to be involved in a silly incident. Safety first. One yr I warped my rotors at COTA. I'd just exit the track and park. After replacing the rotors, I started doing the access road cool down and have never had that issue since.

A couple of things. I disagree a little with Husker. It's really hard to actually warp the rotors. Most likely, you have pad deposits on the rotors. That being said, if the rotors have a fair number of miles, replace them. You can also possibly have your rotors turned to clean and smooth . The min thickness is on the edge of the rotor. Rotors arent that expensive, so turning may not be worth it anyway I highly recommend Meyle drilled rotors. I used them for several years of tracking and never had any issues with cracking around the holes What pads are you using? It is a good idea to cool your brakes after a session. If you can't get a cool down lap, drive around the pits and/or access roads for a couple of minutes, trying not to use your brakes. You should not be going very fast in the pits anyway YMMV

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I agree that rotors rarely warp, but I also disagree that drilled rotors don't crack. If you are running the car at more than a moderate pace with decent tires and track pads, you will start getting small cracks from the holes. Hell my slotted rotors have tons of cracks or heat checks, but so long as they don't reach the edges, nbd. As to the OP, it doesn't sound like he is tracking the car. He should note, however, that slotted or drilled rotors won't improve stopping power in any way. So, OP, go to ****************************.com, find whatever rotors fit your car, and select the cheapest ones you feel comfortable with (perhaps ate, meyle, sebro, etc.)

I did a far amount of tracking and pushed hard. I never saw any cracks. YMMV Look on amazon and ebay for rotors. I was buying a pair of Meyle rotors for around $85

One other thing at the track. If you are a student, like me, you may be having a debrief session with your instructor while still sitting in your car parked in the pits. It is very important to not have your foot on the brake pedal during this time. Holding pressure on the brake pedal with the pads stationary while the brakes are hot is definitely going to transfer some pad material to the disks and "warp" your rotors. If you can't stop at a level spot in the pits, you're better off shutting off the car and leaving it in first gear. Don't use the parking brake for the same reason, the parking brake shoes can get stuck to the inside of the disk hats.

Thanks a bunch everyone with the excellent advice especially about cooling the breaks. A few years back I did a lot of track racing in Formula Continental and Spec Mazda with NASA and SCCA. Its been five years since I've been on the track so I've lost touch with whats good and bad with manufacturers. So what I wanted to know who has the best reputation for manufacturing breaks.

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Probably the best depends on the intended use. I did install at the beginning of last year brembo discs and they did work real well on track as well as on street. Next ones will be most likely Brembo's as well. The pads I initially got was good on the street, but shook like crazy as they got hot on the first track event last spring. Then changed pads also to Brembo's and problems solved - worked like a charm at street and on the track.

Quotes source post: 645094

hmm, thats curious. here are what my rotors look like when nearing end of life