Dme

I need help understanding this DME report. I have only had it a month, and have for sure not mis shifted one time. I took it for a ppi(post) and found it to have over revs in all stages but only 1 ignition in 3-6. I know this is not ideal, but wanting to see when it happened so I can know If it has been more than 200 operating hours ago. Thanks for your help!

That report is not what I’ve normally seen as they don’t list the operating hours when the over revs happened. They do list the total operating hours as 1846 hours. My understanding is that if a car has ( for instance an over rev in range 4 ) but the has continued to operate 100 hours after the over rev with no issues then you should be ok and Porsche will still CPO the car. According to your report you have 1 over rev in range 3 to 6 but you don’t know when it happened so IMO the information you have isnt showing the complete picture. Also, that one over rev showing can be a single bad downshift or it may just be a glitch. If i were you I’d ask the tech that ran the report to fully explain it to you and I’d also have an oil analysis done to see if there’s any serious amount of metal particles in the oil. If the oil analysis comes up clean drive the car and enjoy. Here’s a copy of an over rev report that I’m used to seeing. It shows the number of over revs, shows at what operating hour the last over rev occurred and also shows the total engine hours. Good Luck.

Yea, that report is different than what I've seen in the past. As @Jim137a said the report normally shows the engine time when the over rev occurred. Anyway assuming the report you have is correct I would not worry about a single occurrence in the 4 to 6 range. Not that it would hurt to dissect your oil filter and look for metal. But my bet is no issue!

Thanks for your help! My plan is to do my first oil change and every after at 5000 miles, is this a good move or too often? Planning on buying the tools and doing it myself. I have about 3000 to go before hitting that first oil change. I can check oil filter then. I ordered a Blackstone oil check kit as well. My independant pshop did the ppi and found that I needed ignition coils. He said they were original and showed me the hairline cracks in them. Parts, labor, and the PPI (399$) totaled to about 1500$. I was shocked that it was so expensive but he charges 115$ and hour and says he used to work at the dealership for 15 years where labor was 150$ an hour. Shop is very nice, he is the only mechanic, and he works exclusively on Porsches. I am not sure if I should return, although he did do a great job. I also needed rotors done, both are in spec with fronts at only 2mm to spare to be considered spec. I was able to feel the ridge on outside of front rotor. I am wondering if I could perform this job myself or if it would make sense to let him do it.

You effectively have no meaningful overrevs. Remember that these are ignitions. So maybe one or two runs to redline in range 1, but nothing significant in range 2. Figures in range 3+ are data glitches, no activity. Changing oil is a piece of cake. Just remember to fill with less than capacity and then check oil level. I changed yesterday and added 8 quarts. This morning, oil level was perfect at one line below absolute full. If you want to go ahead and run Blackstone, just pull the filter and take sample from filter housing, replace the filter if you choose so you can cut up old one, and top up oil if necessary. Plugs and coils are doable but tight. Was happy they were done at the car's 40k service. Brakes are very straightforward. Remove wheels, pull brake pads, remove and hang calipers and remove retaining screws on disks and replace. Easy if you are even reasonably mechanical. Good luck.

Great to hear that It is a glitch for range 3+. I assumed it was because in order for engine to hit range 6, it would have to pass through all other ranges twice. On way up and on way back down even if clutch was pushed in right away. I am so thankful my cayman hasn't been abused. From the range 1 number, it seems that previous owner was very conservative with his revving, and only hit the red line very rarely. I have also been conservative, hitting 6000-6500 before shifting when on a spirited drive on the back roads. Still a whole lot of fun. I know these engines are made tough, but I want mine to last a very long time. I don't plan on selling the car, and I DD but won't put more than 12000 miles a year on it. I have a powertrain warranty for 3yr/36k miles. It was expensive, but worth it for the peace of mind. Any recommendations for how to lift car without spending so much on a portable hydraulic lift? Thinking to buy a good jack, and jack stands. I know I can handle oil change, and great idea to use oil inside filter canister for Blackstone. For rotors and pads, I read that autozone has the tool for pushing pistons back to allow caliper off rotor, and removal of pads. Only thing is my fluid was flushed at dealership, so no need to change, but I read that after brake job, I will need to flush brake fluid and check reservoir. Is this true? I have never done brake job and don't want to end up with air in line. Thanks for your help!

Invest in a set of "lift bars" to get your car up on stands. You will need a low profile jack (the one from Harbor Freight for example) and jack stands. You place a lift bar under each side of the car, center the jack under one of the bars and lift the entire side of the car in one lift. Place jack stands at the ends of the lift bar, lower the jack, and repeat on the other side. 5-10 minutes and car is up on 4 stands. No affiliation, just a great product. When changing pads, you will most likely need to remove some break fluid from the reservoir so when you squeeze the pads, you don't overflow. When you are done changing the pads, you will then refill. No need to flush again.