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Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHI've got a stuck bolt removing rear strut, help!?
Leading reported evidence
Clean bolt and how far out it is
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Suggestion · Original poster
The greenish bit is the lovely clean bolt and how far out it is.
Leading evidence: 'Clean bolt and how far out it is' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Clean bolt and how far out it is' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm currently trying to replace the rear shocks on my 2002 Porsche 996 C4.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I understand from reading guides and watching the couple of youtube videos about changing rear struts that it isn't uncommon this bolt to be problematic to remove.
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Suggestion
You are replacing the shock so will need to compress the spring anyway to get the top mount off and the shock out, so might as well do it now, and then you don't have to start getting the crowbar/bottle jack out :thumb:
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Suggestion
You will cut grooves in the top washer as the space is tight, you can replace the washer (expensive for what it is) or just leave it as it won't affect the washer structurally and won't be seen when back on the car.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I understand from reading guides and watching the couple of youtube videos about changing rear struts that it isn't uncommon this bolt to be problematic to remove.
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Suggestion
You are replacing the shock so will need to compress the spring anyway to get the top mount off and the shock out, so might as well do it now, and then you don't have to start getting the crowbar/bottle jack out :thumb:
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Suggestion
You will cut grooves in the top washer as the space is tight, you can replace the washer (expensive for what it is) or just leave it as it won't affect the washer structurally and won't be seen when back on the car.
Set impact driver, impact wrench in-situ, give shock
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Suggestion
Soak in penetrating fluid overnight, try socket set, impact driver, impact wrench in-situ, give shock to garage to try air gun then give up and cut off nut with a small angle grinder!
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Suggestion
Undo the anti roll bar drop link and if that doesn't relieve the load sufficiently then use a jack to push up just enough on the bottom of the strut to release the bolt.
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Suggestion
Most of them have either the Allen key or a flat section to grip and use a ring spanner to undo it, if not just undo the spring compressors to put it back under tension and use a nice long breaker bar to get it started so you can put the compressors back on.
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Suggestion
Most of them have either the Allen key or a flat section to grip and use a ring spanner to undo it, if not just undo the spring compressors to put it back under tension and use a nice long breaker bar to get it started so you can put the compressors back on.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T191851Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hello, first time caller, I'm hoping you can help me
I'm currently trying to replace the rear shocks on my 2002 Porsche 996 C4. I've got a bit of an issue though, most of it has come apart relatively easily, but the bolt through the lower control arm doesn't want to move, it has come out a certain amount with a bit of hammer and drift action, but now seems very stuck. There isn't much space to get tools in... Any ideas?
Suspension as it sits
The nut side (the side I've been pushing from)
The greenish bit is the lovely clean bolt and how far out it is. Has another half inch to go
Also worthy of note, it is possible to rotate the bolt, so it isn't stuck fast...
I understand from reading guides and watching the couple of youtube videos about changing rear struts that it isn't uncommon this bolt to be problematic to remove. However no one seems to detail exactly what they did to get it out. Do I need to dismantle more of the rear suspension system to take pressure out the system?
Is it one of the eccentric bolts that go through the subframe. If so you need to cut it out between the subframe and arm. The bolt seizes inside the steel sleeve in the arm.
Edit: looking at the bottom photo, hertsdriver is right.
Ah thanks folks, none of the guides mentioned using spring compressors until everything was off the car, so figured the whole thing would be unweighted at this point. I'm guessing that is also why they had issues getting the bolt out. Will give it a go tomorrow
Never done this task, though perhaps a liberal spraying of the releasing agent of your choice the threads may allow it to penetrate further into the area of seizure (?) spray it a few times leaving some time for possible penetration. Might be worth spraying in from the other end also and after the last spray knock/screw the bolt back in while still wet with spray in the hope of spreading the releasing agent in further, then have another go at trying to remove it... Worth a try..?
Good luck.
Undo the anti roll bar drop link and if that doesn't relieve the load sufficiently then use a jack to push up just enough on the bottom of the strut to release the bolt.
Had to happen one day! :floor:
You are replacing the shock so will need to compress the spring anyway to get the top mount off and the shock out, so might as well do it now, and then you don't have to start getting the crowbar/bottle jack out :thumb:
As others have said the bolt is under tension, just use a jack to LIGHTLY compress the shock from underneath and it will just slide out.
You are very lucky as those bolts often seize solid through corrosion and take hours to remove.
Just get your ratchet on it and wind it out, the shocker will move once the bolt comes out but the threads will be fine still....or like has been said, use something to take the pressure off it or put pressure on it... if you are scared of just winding it out.
Don't say that I've got to do the other side as well!
Will get some time tomorrow to swear at it some more, will report back, but it definitely makes sense to compress the spring where it is now I think about it.
Victory!
Thanks for the help, spring compressors were the answer, made it possible to move bolt out relatively easily, and possible to get strut assembly off with a light-ish tap of the hammer, rather than a pry bar.
Now I have ANOTHER stuck nut. Central top mount on the shock, I didn't loosen it when it was in place (which I get the feeling I should have done), wouldn't come away on bench. So I've removed the spring compressors and reattached the top mount in to the car so I can get some better leverage on it... to no avail
... any tips or am I just bathing it regularly in penetrating fluid and attacking it periodically. Tried to my impact gun, but that didn't do much either
Can be a ***** if seized!
Soak in penetrating fluid overnight, try socket set, impact driver, impact wrench in-situ, give shock to garage to try air gun then give up and cut off nut with a small angle grinder!
You will cut grooves in the top washer as the space is tight, you can replace the washer (expensive for what it is) or just leave it as it won't affect the washer structurally and won't be seen when back on the car.
At least that was my experience with the front struts, my rear ones came apart easily. There may be a better method.
Reassemble with ally grease!
Had the shock not got an Allen key recess in the top? Most of them have either the Allen key or a flat section to grip and use a ring spanner to undo it, if not just undo the spring compressors to put it back under tension and use a nice long breaker bar to get it started so you can put the compressors back on.
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