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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHBrake Caliber Bolt came loose
Leading reported evidence
Check rest of bolts
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I cleaned it and put it back in place .I also checked the rest of bolts on all calibers and the where fine .
Leading evidence: 'Check rest of bolts' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'reason' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check rest of bolts' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I replaced the bolts on mine when I did a complete brake overhaul a few months ago.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I think I have replaced the bolts a couple of times over the years but certainly not every time the calipers have been off.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Porsche manual says install new bolts each time, torque to 63 ft lbs, and doesn't mention locktite which was used on my Jag's caliper bolts.
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Suspected cause
My logic is that if Porsche recommends it, there’s probably a reason.
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16 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Rennlist: 1 discussions
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Hi Every one , On my way back from the store I heard this screeching noise from the right rear tire and once I got home I lifted the car and toke the tire off to find that my brake caliber bolt came completely loos and the only thing held it in place was is the inside of my rim. I cleaned it and put it back in place .I also checked the rest of bolts on all calibers and the where fine . Just heads up to check them every once in while . Its bolt # 8 in the diagram.
Porsche manual says install new bolts each time, torque to 63 ft lbs, and doesn't mention locktite which was used on my Jag's caliper bolts. Would be good to know which of those was followed when OP's brakes were last changed.
Thats scary as stated above new bolts every time the caliper comes off - might be overkill but better than OPs situation.
OP did you reuse your caliper bolts?
The threads on the aluminum upright are famous for giving out after a couple changes. If you can torque back to spec then I guess you�re ok, but I�d bet not if it backed out like that. The solution is to drill out the hole and install a time-sert. It�s a pita and you really should be doing it on a bench with a drill press so the angles are perfect. Better yet replace with caliper studs from Tarret while you still have good threads to work with.
I am do for brake job and rotters anyway , I'll order the new bolts today, last time i changed every thing was 4/2017 so i'll install all new bolts and rotters .
I have had my car for over 19 years now and have had the calipers off for disc changes and other work more times that I can count. I think I have replaced the bolts a couple of times over the years but certainly not every time the calipers have been off. I can’t imagine how the threads in the aluminum uprights could be damaged or stripped if you are careful doing the work.
Actually, looking closely, I'm not sure that is a correct caliper bolt. The correct caliper bolt has a threaded end with a shoulder. Yours looks threaded all the way to the head. Replace them all.
I wonder what top speed handbrake could stop 996 in emergency? 5 mph definitely. 10 mph probably. 35 mph?
Two guys I knew worked on their brakes then drove down steep hill. One guys face went through windshield had deep scars. Their car didn't have emergency handbrake.
I replaced the bolts on mine when I did a complete brake overhaul a few months ago. They appeared to be the original 92k mile bolts from 1998. Note that the new bolts and old bolts have different heads. The old ones are allen head and the new ones are torx (T55?), If I recall correctly.
Interesting thread. I recall a thread years back on these forums about caliper bolts, and the recommendation by Porsche to replace them with new bolts after they were removed. This recommendation resulted in quite a bit of debate (including some unfriendly debate by a wacko member who somehow wanted to bring politics into it) over whether these bolts really need to be changed. As I recall, new bolts from the factory have some kind of thread lock, like a nylon nub that the threads deform when the bolt is inserted, creating a lock so that it won’t back out. Once the bolt is removed, the nylon nub is deformed and is no longer effective, and therefore Porsche recommends new bolts.
Am I remembering this correctly?
Hearing a case like yours in which a bolt becomes loose would certainly make me consider new bolts each time I remove the calipers. I’m not really kidding anybody here - I put new bolts in every time anyway. My logic is that if Porsche recommends it, there’s probably a reason. They’re not expensive.
Maybe I’m not remembering correctly and Porsche recommends new bolts for another reason....
The set I bought from one of the Porsche retailers didn't have any substance on the threads. They were plated with a treatment that gave them a black anodised look.
Jayzbird is spot on with his response. The OEM bolts can easily strip the aluminum uprights. By replacing them with the Tarret brake caliper studs you never have to worry about stripping the upright threads. A problem more common when tracking your car, since you will have to service your brakes more often. In addition you will not have to be concerned about the useable life of the OEM bolts which get stressed each time they are tightened and torqued.
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