Need 3.4 L Engine

As the title says I’m looking for a 987.1 3.4L engine either long or short block for a 2008 CS. Mine let go on the weekend. Any leads are appreciated Thanks

I think those M97 motors are getting harder to come by nowadays but have seen them on eBay… i can only imagine how your feeling right now. Let me look around a little. If you have the cash I’d look for 991 Carrera S motor… little more involved on the wire/ecu flash etc but those are easier to find ** there are a few on ebay… just make sure you get cylinder wall scope pics and IMS verification or you could be ending up with worse than you have… watch it on these motors

2006 PORSCHE CAYMAN S 987 3.4 ENGINE MOTOR DROPOUT COMPLETE! TESTED! Part was removed from a 2006 Porsche Cayman S M/T w/ 103k Miles RUN TESTED! FANTASTIC LEAKDOWN RESULTS! PRICE INCLUDES FREE FREIGHT SHIPPING TO A BUSINESS ADDRESS WITH A LOADING DOCK OR FORKLIFT IN THE LOWER 48 STATES! ITEM CAN ALSO BE PICKED UP FROM THE FREIGHT TERMINAL (USUALLY YOUR CLOSEST... leecparts.com They also have it listed on their eBay store. eBay selling fees are around 10% so if you purchase direct from their website you should be able to negotiate a lower price.

You can also try the dismantler below LADismantler Used Porsche parts Salvage yard LADismantler Used Porsche parts Salvage yard Los Angeles Keeping Porsches on the Road w Parts Globally 22+ years! www.ladismantler.com

Man that 30k GT3 motor would be cool…. Or an M97TT motor if your into balls out HP Great links!!! It’s a massive investment rebuilding an flat 6. A little leary of buying a 10-15k used motor… that’s a tough one

If your engine can be rebuilt and the car is not you daily you can contact flat 6 innovation to price out a stock rebuild or one of their performance rebuilds. Flat Six Innovations – Porsche Engine Experts flat6innovations.com

Wow! What a kick in the gut! Would you mind, in what way did it let go?

ran a 50 minute session in 90F temperature. Started to hear a noise in left bank. Oil pressure and temp normal as was water. Last run of weekend. Trailered home as usual and checked car at my race mechanic. No noises, no codes, so all good. Right? At the next event went ou5 first run, running rough, just died 3/4 of first lap. Apparently big puff white smoke, and same when restarted after. **** down. At mechanic this week could not restart. Small metal shaving in plenum. Tear down next week. Stay tuned. PS have deep sump, up, Motorsport AOS, GT3 plenum/tb, etc. No flash. Oil was fresh. All black stone reports were good. 20k track miles on engine

Well we finally have the answer. No.6 ! As usual! Splitting engine today to check crank,since heads are good. If crank is ok, going 3.6 route. Used engines are unknown and expensive. This way I’ll know what I’ve got, plus I have all the other high performance parts already. IMS is very, and already had updated bearing. Now it’s just time and some $$$ Stay tuned

What was the source of the pieces of metal that appear loose on th top of the piston?

It’s mostly the sleeve. IMS is good

Do you think the matrix cylinder wall cracked on the track day before. Then the cylinder wall completely came apart on next 3/4 lap. Seems that water fluid should have been involved if the cylinder wall as cracked. Sorry to hear about your blowup but 20k race mode on a M97 is pretty good. Many racers only got 80 hours. Do you think you can salvage the block and rebuild to a 3.8l with sleaves?

You are right. There was a huge puff of white smoke just before it let go about 500m later. Motul 15 40. I’ll get the piston today after the engine is totally split. BTW Blackstone analysis was always very good. Changed oil very very often!

Motul v300 Power is what I use. I'm thinking that the plastic covered piston skits finally eroded and it was metal to metal until the skirt broke and cracked the cylinder wall. Hard to know exactly how it came apart. Was it the piston skirt or cylinder wall first.

If you wouldn't mind, please update us with any tips after the engine examination, as this info would be very helpful to other M97 owners who track their cars.

Absolutely. That’s why I’m posting this for the community. We can all learn

This is some good info.. I agree on used M97 motors being a gamble… it is… I’ve thought about selling what I have which is a good motor and dropping a 991 CS 3.8 or 4.0 motor in… it’s a good time to do it

It’s cheaper to sell the car me thinks, and rebuy another car. Looked at updating to a DFI. Huge, complex and expensive job. Think LS3 is more cost effective if you want to ge5 rid of the current engine

It’s expensive, but not as expensive when I have a perfect motor already to sell.. I’m 8-10k ahead of the game. An LS3 motor will cost a ton to do right and it’ll screw up the center of gravity vs H6. No non-P swaps for me. If that’s the case I’ll just buy another MR2

Ok we now finally know what happened. Oil starvation to the No 6 connecting rod bearing, causing it to seize, snap the connecting rod, causing catastrophic failure. Need new short block. Will change baffles in lengthen oil pick up tube in deep sump. Lesson learnt. Hope this was useful for the community. IMS was not the failure. The dent in IMS is from secondary damage

Wow… great info! So your going 3.6?

Going back, do you think the screw on LN filter would have helped preserve the oil pressure to #6 rod bearing or was the oil simply climbing the sump walls away from the oil pick up in your deep sump? This post event has changed completely from our initial bore scoring thought. So thank you for this follow up analysis of what happened.

No idea, but I doubt it. This is a known issue on these engines

there is a lot to figure. I’d snag a 991 CS 3.8

I would think you could remember if a recent oil starvation event occured from a particular track corner that caused the starvation. A few years ago some racers had track tracers of G forces overlayed with oil pressure results showing a couple of turns where the pressure was less than 10 lbs of pressure. The internals of the engine seem very clean though.

Did significant track time at Watkins Glen. Carousel is likely the key contributor

fnel1771-Great news about finding a used M97 engine . I have attached is a copy of the tread showing the 996 oil/coolant heat exchanger which is much larger. The mounting feet are the key to these 996 heat exchangers. A few years ago, this thread was active, but no longer works but your can use the exchanger model number. Its easier to change it before installing the motor. http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/cayman-performance-modifications/p373-376726111-engine-oil-cooler.html The other modification is the LN screw on filter with a screen rather than an actual filter. It was built to improve the final 15 minutes of your track time to improve the oil pressure with less back pressure. They also make a magnet that attaches to the metal filter to keep any metal particules contained in the screen filter, Call LN and talk to George about the benefits of this system.

Replacement engine being prepped and will be installed next week. Will be great to be on track again. Replacement engine only has 10500 miles on it!

Is 10500 the price or mileage? 🤣 We’re you able to check internals out? Nice score for mileage, jeeez!

No bore score and leak down less than 10% across all six cylinders. That’s the mileage, not the price! Will pu5 all track goodies on it plus change rms, plugs and coils

I know… messing with ya…

fnel1771. great to hear you have found a good donor engine with low milage. I just ordered some Motul 300 V Power, 5W 40 and was sent 300 V Competition 5W 40. It is significantly heavier in weight. What does that mean? Same viscosity, just a heavier Ester package. Maybe that one would be best for your application. I would also use the LN screw on screen filter to keep all the engine oil pressure possible. Hopefully no problems for your mechanic going forward. You might look at adding a Wavetrac LSD while the transmission/transaxle is out. It will make your lap times better without any rear lock ups on cornering. I really like the engine braking using this LSD.

My mechanic is putting in motul 540. Not sure which one though. I will do the LN filter, and order it this week. The first event will be slow/shakedown so I’ll use the regular filter in the interim. Youre right an LSD does make a Huuuuge difference. I have a Guard Pro in for many years. It’s a great investment.

Let us know how your replacement engine worked out. Kind of a before and after, hopefully about the same power. I would ask your mechanic about Motul 15W-50 Competition which is listed by Amazon at $35. US. It's a race oil but you might need that sort of oil. I'm using the 5W-40 300V Power with LN's screw on filter specs. I use the Napa Gold 1042 with LN deep sump skid plate for the street. The LN Engineering Billet Spin-On High Performance Oil Filter uses a slightly increased porosity stainless mesh (60 versus the 30 micron of the stock paper filter). Along with increased surface area and larger pore size, our "shorty" Billet High Performance Washable Oil Filter will outperform the 1081 or it's larger sibling, the 1042, hands down. This increase in flow along with a smaller pressure loss across the element ensures the best possible protection for your engine from oil starvation. When coupled with our magnetic drain plug, a superior lubricant like Joe Gibbs XP9, and reduced drain intervals, our billet filter provides the best balance for cars that see both street and track use. With the introduction of our billet filter, for applications where ground clearance needs to be observed, we no longer recommend the Napa Gold 1081 and use of our billet filter is highly recommended for all vehicles used on the track instead of the Napa Gold 1042 . The proper procedure for cleaning the filter involves dis-assembly of the filter and removal of the washable element. Wash out filter cup with mineral spirits or similar solvent. Do not get solvent of any type on the o-rings or seals, otherwise they will have to be replaced. Be sure to clean the filter element from the inside out to ensure media is clean. Oil o-rings and seals prior to re-assembly. Pre-fill the oil filter if so desired. Snug up the filter when re-installing and turn 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn tighter by hand as you would a conventional spin on oil filter. Product Vehicle Group