33 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHWon’t start - any ideas?
Leading reported evidence
Install by me
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Leading evidence: 'Install by me' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check clutch switch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
IIRC there was a trick used on 987.1 to improve launch smoothness.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
Planning to have it towed to P mechanic that I use on Monday - unless anyone has any ideas!
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Suggestion
So.......I think I've exhausted my options other than having it towed to a shop.....as I'm not sure I'm willing to get to the engine bay to check things like starter, alternator, etc.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
So.......I think I've exhausted my options other than having it towed to a shop.....as I'm not sure I'm willing to get to the engine bay to check things like starter, alternator, etc.
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33 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
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2 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Woke up early on Sat morning to do a tour with San Diego Region PCA - only to have my 09
Boxster
987.2
not start.
won’t start
won’t turn over (won’t even try)
lights and electronics work
battery is reading 12.4
all relevant fuses are operational
Jump Start did not work
Dash reads;
1 - PSM failure
2 - Dynamic Cornering Light failure
3 - Drive Off Assistant failure
4 - PSM initialization
A couple of days ago I felt a weird vibration (almost like there was rubbing) near the front left wheel/tire when running errands. It disappeared on the next/subsequent drives. Could have also been on the right side but I couldn’t hear/feel that from drivers seat.
Planning to have it towed to P mechanic that I use on Monday - unless anyone has any ideas! 🤞🤞🤞
I did research here and ******** and a few other places - almost all suggestions were to drive it to see if the issue goes away. But it won’t turn over or start so that’s not going to work.
Thanks in advance!!
Battery is reading 12.4 and all the lights and radio are working.
I tried jumping it from another car - it wouldn’t start.
Replace battery?
PS - I don’t know what a tender is 🤦♂️🤷🏻♂️
Agreed with starting with a new battery. Reading voltage doesn't tell you the current delivery of the battery. It might be 12.4V sitting around, but you need current to activate the solenoid, turn the starter, etc. And you need voltage to keep the electronics happy during this time as well.
How old is the battery? If it's more than 4 years, I'd say it's the likely problem (especially since you haven't been using a battery tender).
Beyond that, it could also be damaged wires or grounds? Given that a jump start won't work (which should deliver more current, in theory)... has the car been stored outside? Any possibility for animal or water damage?
Battery sticker says 4/18. Car loved in garage 100% of the time. But I’ve only had it since 11/22 and it has 105k miles - not sure how it was treated before me.
I’ll plan to get a battery today and hopefully that magically sorts things out!
If it is a Manual trans it might be the clutch switch. But I think you get an indication in the onboard computer display. Something like "Depress Clutch".
I agree the battery might be the issue. You could remove the battery and take it to any good auto parts store (Advances, Auto Zone....) and they will load-test it for free. If it neeeds replacement, they will be able to supply it for much less than an OEM Porsche battery. Advanced Auto often has 10-20% off coupons,
I'm with the battery crowd, even if that doesn't correct it (I think it will) you are on the periphery of need soon anyhow. I yanked one out working perfectly in June because of the date and great deal at Costco on replacement before I took my trip.
If you have a voltmeter that you can connect directly to the battery, it would be interesting to see what you get when you turn the key. The fact that you are seeing over 12V without load has me wondering why you're not even hearing the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the start position. I will be quite surprised if a battery replacement is the solution. I hope it's something that simple. That is a pretty old battery.
I just replaced the battery on my motorcycle. The battery is from 2018 and has always been on a tender. Recently the bike wouldn't start. I checked with a volt meter and was getting 12 volts but that would not turn over the bike. I bought a new battery and now everything is fine.
I would look at the ignition switch module. I had a similar issue on 987.1. You can try jiggling the key in the ignition and it might start. The module is fairly inexpensive and can be replaced in an hour. Good luck
Thanks!
I did the jiggle trick to no avail.
I feel good about the clutch switch - but I’m confounded by not being able to find the wires that plug into it!
From your excellent picture, it looks like a connector has been in place in the past. Scuff marks are visible on the copper plating. Are you the original owner? The reason I ask is that it may be possible that the connector has been jumpered to bypass the switch and then tucked away somewhere. I've done that on motorcycles, and on the seat safety switch on a couple of riding mowers.
If no luck, I'll go take a look at mine this afternoon when I get home and see where the wires lead. Interesting mystery.
And... Perhaps said jumper came apart.
I'm not a fan of the nannies, if you don't know to start the car in neutral or with the clutch depressed each time I submit said individual is a candidate for an automatic.
Thanks! I’m thinking this as well.
mom not the original owner - there were a few before me.
I’m not super mechanical or electrical, unfortunately - but willing to roll up my sleeves as necessary. Any additional insight would be helpful!
I'm alright, I just think it's gone too far with the legal aspects. Here's an idea, if your toddler wants to eat Tide pods, be mindful of where you place them. Works really great with firearms and toddlers too. My cousin's auto braking damn near gave me whiplash, glad my cars are old, may they run a good long time.
My 2011
Boxster
would not start this morning. I sensed a low battery with a sound that could have been the starter (?) when I cranked the key. Either that or the motor on the tail that went up for some odd reason.
This thread did make me check the wires on the clutch switch, and thankfully mine are there.
I called AAA for a new battery install, and I am now good.
MaverickSD, hope you get your's resolved soon.
It looks like two 1/4" spade connectors that attach wiring from under the plastic cover, above and to the left of your left knee. I'd peek in there. The cover looks like it will detach easily. Not a lot of real estate to work in down there!
Alrighty.....we have an update.
I took off fuse cover and the carpeted area around the fuses....and saw this;
The wires were hotwired / nannied (?) with a 40amp fuse and some duct tape.
Unsure of the status of the fuse, I made my only little nanny thing (that probably doesn't sound right!)
That DID NOT START THE CAR.
I think took the wires and re-connected them to the actual clutch switch.
That DID NOT START THE CAR.
So.......I think I've exhausted my options other than having it towed to a shop.....as I'm not sure I'm willing to get to the engine bay to check things like starter, alternator, etc.
Unless anyone has last minute ideas!?!?!
Thanks again to everyone who has posted responses!!!!
IIRC there was a trick used on 987.1 to improve launch smoothness. It involved bypassing the switch so the ECU always thought the clutch was depressed. It was supposed to prevent a little throttle lag on launch. This didn't work so well on
987.2
but some tried and liked it. I never did it. So maybe the previous owner bypassed it? I bet they are safely tucked up there somewhere.
Edit: Sorry, I guess I didn't refresh my screen page since last night. There were lots of posts in between. It seems my post is a little dated about the bypass. Maverick, did you actually replace the battery? This switch thing might be just a red herring. The bypass should not be a problem as long as the fuse isn't blown. And if it was, it would appear to the ECU that the switch was open and would give some kind of "helpful" (in the German engineer's mind) message.
Hey RS - yes, I replaced the battery. Unfortunately that didn't help!
Ready to tow this bad boy to the shop and see what they can find. At least I diagnosed the minor stuff.....!!!!
Hey just a bit of advice. Don't replace a fuse with a wire. If that circuit has an issue it would be better to blow the fuse than an unknown wire resistance. Where the fuse would open the circuit the wire might not resulting in the circuit being destroyed. From the looks of the fuse area it's obvious something else was installed at some point. 40A fuse? Maybe some audio equipment sub or whatever. Also what's with the plastic wrap in the background? I'm still goi with the ignition module. Was the car running well until recently?
OK - tow to P mechanic is scheduled for Weds am. They will look at it on Thursday.
We should start a poll on what the issue is?
I'm guessing starter or alternator......
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