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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHProblem with bump-steer in C4
Leading reported evidence
Adjust camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
I was told various things, to include: it needs camber plates to adjust the camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's that came with it from the factory; and it needs the Stomski SR083 tie rod ends.
Leading evidence: 'Adjust camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Adjust camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
BTW, tie rod ends and their adjusting tubes are about $40 normally, but since these are made out of billet metal (aluminum or steel?) and since they are for racers, there's a "market adjustment." Too bad the Chinese haven't entered the market, huh.
Check goingsuperfast.com website if they are in production
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Matter of fact, I better check the Goingsuperfast.com website if they are in production...
Recommend difference between front and rear circumference
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
Read evidence and context
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Does anyone know the max recommended difference between front and rear circumference?
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion · Original poster
We use aerospace quality rod ends and components to provide for the most durable, accurate part available.
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Adjust camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
I was told various things, to include: it needs camber plates to adjust the camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's that came with it from the factory; and it needs the Stomski SR083 tie rod ends.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
BTW, tie rod ends and their adjusting tubes are about $40 normally, but since these are made out of billet metal (aluminum or steel?) and since they are for racers, there's a "market adjustment." Too bad the Chinese haven't entered the market, huh.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
4 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Pelican Parts: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 0 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
0 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Generation: 20261026T150451Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
I have a 1999 C4, in which I just put turbo struts/springs. The car looks very good lowered like this, however, there is a bump-steer problem, in that when I hit a bump, the car veers suddenly and dangerously.
I was told various things, to include: it needs camber plates to adjust the camber; it needs 18" wheels, not the 17's that came with it from the factory; and it needs the Stomski SR083 tie rod ends.
Does anyone have any experience with this, or have suggestions?
Here is the description of the part from our host.
DESCRIPTION
Stomski Racing Front Tie Rod and Bump Steer Kit
Based on the same technology as STOMSKI RACING's Rear Toe Control Arms, our Front Tie Rod and Bump Steer Kit allows for a full range of toe adjustment, as well as bump steer correction. We use aerospace quality rod ends and components to provide for the most durable, accurate part available. Also included are seals to protect the monoballs in the harsh exposed environment. Fits the 996, 997, Boxster, and Cayman.
I have a 99 C4 also. 122500 miles on it. The only suspension mods are H&R springs and 19" Champion wheels with Potenza's for summer tires, 18" and Blizzaks for winter / rain tires.
I have experienced something similar, but i might describe it as more of a yawing motion. I have been blaming it on the age of my shocks.
A secondary problem that seems to have made it worse is that my tire guy and I didn't pay enough attention to tire circumference. The Potenza's are 80" front and 81 5/8" back. This seems to have made the yaw worse. Makes carving on ramps interesting:-) and dicey:-(
Does anyone know the max recommended difference between front and rear circumference? Tire pressures also seem to be a factor. I get the least yaw / bump steer with 4.5 to 5 pounds more in the rear. Right now I'm at frt. 34 / rear 39 psi. highway commuting.
when it dries out a little more (2-3 month here in the NW:-( ) I plan on some testing a one of the huge industrial parking lot near by.
Throwing money and PSS10 at it is not an option for now. Maybe later.
In reading about the problems associated with lowering the car, the number one problem is the change in the geometry of the suspension, usually at the tie rods. So, when you hit a bump, the steering goes whacko -- making the car suddenly veer off.
The solution seems to be simple -- longer tie rod ends offered by Rennline as well as Stomski (I think both are offered by our host).
They are very expensive -- about $200 EACH -- and you need at least the 2 front ones.
BTW, tie rod ends and their adjusting tubes are about $40 normally, but since these are made out of billet metal (aluminum or steel?) and since they are for racers, there's a "market adjustment." Too bad the Chinese haven't entered the market, huh. Matter of fact, I better check the Goingsuperfast.com website if they are in production...
Any opinions about hiem style ends vs. the enclosed ends like i see on the Elephant Racing ends?
My car is a daily driver thru the winter and it seems to me that the hiem joint might have a shorter life due the the location and grime than can get in to the bearing surfaces.
There is a definite ouch factor to the price. but it's lower then the result of stepping out into a jersey barrier.
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.