Key Stuck in Ignition

I was doing some service on my 987.1 S and when I went to work on it the next day I found out the battery was dead. I needed to move the car so I put the key in the ignition with a charger on the battery. The key is now stuck in the ignition. I tried the trick with the metal tool in the fuse box, but no matter how much I fuss with it nothing is happening. I checked the voltage on my battery it is back to full strength from the charger and I even took it on a lengthy drive today, but when I turn the car off I can not take the key out still. I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery while using the metal rod, but I am having not success. Is there anything I am missing? I called the dealer and they said that I could try hooking up a separate 12V battery to the car and to call them back if that doesn't work. I haven't tried that yet, but I will keep the thread up to date. Thanks, Colton

As far as I know (and I had to do this about a week ago) - the metal rod works and it only uses mechanical means to release the key, no electricity is needed. I'd suggest retrying, perhaps wiggling the wheel while pressing the metal rod while wiggling the key -- you do need 3 hands to do this, or you have to be very skilled with your teeth. The fact that you have a fully charged battery (mine was fully discharged..) is puzzling, it's as if the key locking mechanism is broken in the lock assembly. I don't think this is a common failure, but.. I guess it happens. Let us know how this resolves..

Thanks for the reply, I guess my first question is how is it supposed to feel if the rod works to release the key? I have messed with turning it and all different angles while pressing it in. Is the rod supposed to push through something in that hole? I definitely am using enough pressure as the rod starts to flex and I have to back off. I’m not sure why it doesn’t work haha.

Mine I just pushed. Didn't really hear any click or anything, did have to push the key in a bit and then pull it back out. I think pushing it in allowed whatever locks it in place to retract. When I did that I felt/heard some click of some sorts.

Just bumping this as I still haven't figured it out. Porsche dealer said the voltage is probably off, but I checked it with a multimeter and it is perfect. I also still haven't been able to use the mechanical manual release.

Where are you checking it with a multimeter and what voltage do you get?

I was just checking the battery with a multimeter and it's at 12.6 volts. Do you know of any resources for a DIY ignition switch replacement on a 987?

Today I took apart the ignition switch or ignition box, whatever you want to call it. Getting it out was a pain, but if anyone ever ends up reading this you do NOT need the cylinder tool that people talk about to remove the ignition box. After you have it loose go ahead and break free the zip tie that holds the wiring loom to the dash and then you can run out the ignition from behind the dash to the floor. My "manual release" with the metal rod was 100% broken, but there is a button on the actual ignition switch assembly itself that I was able to press and then it released my key. The part itself smelled like something was burning and as I mentioned above it was definitely not working. I ordered a new one today, hopefully this is all!

Please do post on the resolution... There must be a solenoid that locks the key in the ignition and it must be held open when power is applied, allowing the key to be removed. If I had to guess the solenoid burned out for some reason and couldn't release the key (just a WAG..) Does the new cylinder come key'd to your key? Or is the old cylinder attached to a new switch assembly? AllData just covers R&R of the entire assembly, no details beyond that.

I am just going to be buying a used ignition box that comes with a key because I am not absolutely certain that the only problem is my ignition switch. I am not so great with small circuit boards so I will not be testing everything on the board of the old one, but a guy that I was talking to today said that the problem could be from the male wiring harness of the car itself. I will update once I get the new part!