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YOUR RESEARCHPictures of 996 mufflers bypass mod !
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Install into the long side of the "j"
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However, the "J" shape has a purpose on the PSE as it allows a suitable anchored valve and actuator to be fitted into the long side of the "J".
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Suggestion
The straight bridge requires no mandrel bending or multiple curve welds and uses about 1/3 the length of pipe work.
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Suggestion
Additionally, solutions still using a muffler casing can be tailored with more/less: mineral wool, diffusion gates and convoluted pipe routes.
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Suggestion
If the same gauge steel (SS), diameter, length, apertures size and location are used they will sound IDENTICAL.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Three(ish) here
1", 2" partial all-stage by-pass
2" second and third (last) stage by-pass
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47901&start=30
or just go EuroCup
I SAID E U R O C U P
:
http://www.porscheshop.co.uk/acatalog/porsche_996_performance_exhausts.html
And?
Depends how much noise you what to liberate.
The Eurocup bypasses all muffler stages (by dumping them and saving 64 kgs)
The other options bypass (partially using 1" and 2.25" apertures - the latter being a more effective bypass and hence louder) all stages or 2/3 stages.
Additionally, solutions still using a muffler casing can be tailored with more/less: mineral wool, diffusion gates and convoluted pipe routes.
Did you look at the link in my first reply?
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=47901&start=30
There is a Mk1 PSE mod and MK2 PSE mod.
Mk1 (3.4) is a 1" stainless steel pipe bridging entry and exit pipes (either straight or "J" shaped)
Mk2 (3.6) is a 2-2.25" SS pipe bypassing stages two and three internally. - the "bridge" is "L" shaped and taken from the muffler corner "nipple" to the exit pipe.
You can vary size of pipe to liberate more noise/gas flow and by diameter its core harmonics (smaller diameter is "tinnier" and larger diameter "bassier")
I don't know about GT3 cans, but the 3.4 mufflers only benefit from the Mk1 mod, the 3.6 mufflers can benefit from either Mk1, Mk2, or both at the same time!
This seems to be due to slightly different internals.
You can fit 3.6 mufflers to a 3.4 with some fiddling
PS - I have mine booked in with Haywood and Scott in March for the Mk1 mod
The basic single bridge mods are called variously "Oettle" (after Markus Oettle in Germamy), "Porscheteille" (which just means Porsche Parts) or the "FisterD" mod (after the RennTech contributor in US) etc etc
They all mimic the PSE (XLF) except for the actuated valve - ie they are "on" all the time. Which seems to at least remove the need to get a proper PSE and bodge the actuator switch to permanent "on".
Thanks for the reply..
I have a good friend (who works on race car's and works at Le Mans) who has spoken to Porsche and the 3.6 boxes will be fine on the GT3. (as Porsche will fit a PSE to mine, I can understand this)
I am just
thinking
if to do this on my GT3 ?? I have some great condition 3.6 mufflers but am not too sure which way to ask my friend to weld the bypass ?? He has said to me, he can fit a butterfly in the pipe he is going to weld on, so I can flick the butterfly open and closed from under the car?? Which he has done many times for race teams !
Also, how the hell do you get them looking so shiny ? (I like this, and want to polish mine
if
I get them fitted)
Well, they are Stainless Steel - which is a good place to start, corrosion wise.
Next you need various grades of wet and dry and no life.
Take a look here:
http://jalopnik.com/5459955/you-can-see-yourself-in-a-mirror-polished-delorean
[/img]
Why, thank you.
Just for completeness, when I say mimic, I mean they are effectively identical.
If the same gauge steel (SS), diameter, length, apertures size and location are used they will sound IDENTICAL.
One reason the "J" shape was used in Mk1 was that is is the same length and placement as the actual PSE pipework. However, the "J" shape has a purpose on the PSE as it allows a suitable anchored valve and actuator to be fitted into the long side of the "J".
As length has a very small effect (there are some low amplitude standing wave and heat dissipation effects), a cheaper and easier mod is to do the straight bridge.
The straight bridge requires no mandrel bending or multiple curve welds and uses about 1/3 the length of pipe work. Additionally, the final result is probably neater, better hidden and more mechanically secure (being "internal" to the entry and exit pipes either side).
The Mk2 "L" shape bypass is the same as the PSE as on the PSE the valve and actuator assembly are mounted on the corner of the "L" and this shape is the simplest and shortest, so there have been no adaptations of this method.
I'm not sure how you could do an "Oettle" bypass with a straight tube. Doing it with a 'J' tube makes it easy to drill the holes in the inlet and outlet pipe, and it keeps the pipe tucked in tight. I have also seen it done with a single 90 degree bend and short pipe.
