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YOUR RESEARCHWill these wheels fit? Aggressive offsets for 987
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Adjust with a twist adjustment
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The rear can be adjusted with a twist adjustment on the lower frame by the pickup
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I also have installed Pedro's rear frame brace, which helps during threshold braking and turn in.
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Suggestion
I'll see if changing from -.5 to -1.5 camber in front will help, I already have 35 series sidewalls in front.
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Suggestion
I'll give it a go, will test fit when the wheels come in and post some pictures.
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Suggestion
Take a look at picture #4, add -1.6 camber to the front and the top of your rim would tuck under the fender lip on compression as long as you used a little smaller side walls.
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Hello, I am considering a set of wheels for my
987.1
Cayman
. My car is currently lowered 1.5 inch with H&
R Springs
. Front camber is -0.5, rear is -1.2
The wheels in question are:
18 x 8.5 - Offset 41
18 x 10 - Offset 35
I am going to use the stock
tires
from my current stock 18" wheels (235 and 265
tires
).
Has anyone ran a similar setup? I tried a search but didn't find much. Any helpful advice is greatly appreciated.
The front could be an issue without more camber. -1.6 camber in front will help your outside front shoulder tuck under the wheelwell arch. The back should be fine as I have that offset on some racing wheels and use a 10 mm spacer as well. My front is 48 offset for my racing wheels and I do not need spacers there. I do run -2.7 camber in front and -2.5 camber in the rear. You might need the front fender rolled if your
tires
touch in big bumps while turning.
Alright, Thanks! I noticed in your post history that your fronts are 9" wide with a wider tire. Do you think that because my wheels in question are 8.5" wide with a 235 tire, that it should help, even if the offset is a little lower?
I know this might be a tight fit but I'm hoping they work because the wheels are really nice, new and a great deal.
I have two sets of wheels and
tires
, my daily drivers are stock 8 in off set of 57 f with 18 mm spacers and 9 in offset of 43 with 23 mm spacer rear mounted with
Michelin
P4's 245/35f and 275/35r. Your fronts will be the key to allow your
tires
to tuck under the front fender lips on big bumps. Its close enough to give it a go. Let me know how they look on your car. Take a few pictures of the result and post them here.
My setup is different because I have Tarett Cup LCA's that have internal spacers to help make more camber, but they also push out the track affecting the offset of the wheels. So in f I have 10 mm internal spacer in the LCA's in front and 4 mm internal spacer in back.
That takes my front race wheels to 37 offset and my daily wheels with spacers to 37 as well. So your wheels and
tires
should fit.
Summit racing
sells this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...-high-performance&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4cCwvfnm4QIVx5CfCh3GvwS1EAYYAyABEgI_hPD_BwE
. It lets you simulate any wheel and/or find the dimensions that will fit. It would need a fake tire put on it to make up for the sidewall.
I test fit the front wheels today and I don't think these are going to work unfortunately. The rears are perfect but the front pokes about 6 or 7 mm too much. 18 x 8.5 et 41.
Not sure what to do, wish there was a way to increase the offset by a few mm. Might end up just selling these at a loss.
Those wheels will work if you add -1.6 camber f, -2.1 r and maybe roll your fenders a little. Mine are offset 48 f with 10 mm internal shims and 35 rear with 10 mm external spacer & 2 mm internal spacer. The internal spacer are actually shims in the LCA's.
Tires
are RE71R's 35/255/18 f and 35/275/18 r. You may need to go to 35 side walls instead of OEM 40's to get a fitment. Take a look at picture #4, add -1.6 camber to the front and the top of your rim would tuck under the fender lip on compression as long as you used a little smaller side walls. My car is actually lowered 35 mm as well, which puts the top of the tire closer to the top lip of the fender. It also closes up the gap on top. Picture #4 are OEM wheels 57 offset f with 10 mm spacer using
Michelin 4S
255/35/18 rear is 43 offset with 18 spacer mounted with 275/35/18
Michelin 4S
.
Alright, Your car looks really good with that setup. I haven't given up on these just yet.. I'll see if changing from -.5 to -1.5 camber in front will help, I already have 35 series sidewalls in front. I should also note that the suspension was compressed in the pictures, I lowered the car slowly onto wood and a sandbag under the wheel. I love how the wheels look from the side profile, I just don't want it to look tacky and riced out from the front or 3/4 view.
The OEM camber adjustment in front is on top of the strut mounting bracket, three slots that have some adjustment. Normally you can get between -1.3 and -1.5 with these slots in front. The rear can be adjusted with a twist adjustment on the lower frame by the pickup
points
for the LCA's. You maybe able to get -2.1 degrees of camber out these in the rear. Negative camber does tip the top of your wheels inward and gives more clearance during compression to the top of your
tires
. They rely on the static camber as they move up. So, you should mount the
tires
and give it a go. You will be surprised that they actually fit and look competitive. We need to see the final product please.
Joshua, thanks for the correction.
Cisco-with slotted camber holes, your camber can be -1.5 or -1.6 in front, your
tires
should still tuck inside of the upper finder lip. If its just touches during threshold braking and turnin, you might want to get your front fender lip rolled a little on top. I also noticed that my tire actually hit the front fender liner with OEM LCA's. I changed to Tarett Cup LCA's with the red solid thrust puck, now, no forward or rear movement of both front and rear wheels, which can also cause alignment changes. Picture is sideways.
Great, camber helps, fitment looks good, hope you enjoy your new wheels. On lowered
Cayman
's like yours, you might want to reinforce the front shock towers with a single shock tower brace. This brace really adds some stiffness to the front end. After I installed mine, I noticed much less rattles, squickes and other noises from the front end. I also have installed Pedro's rear frame brace, which helps during threshold braking and turn in. Both braces can be acquired for about $300.00. Schnell is the best product for both f and r.
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