13 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHlack of damping?
Leading reported evidence
Replace rear shocks
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The rear shocks were replaced last year (one lost its fluid)
Leading evidence: 'Replace rear shocks' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check play in any joints by putting a bar' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
That are both described as "Track control arm" the 303 number is used on autodoc and 306 is used on design911
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
That are both described as "Track control arm" the 303 number is used on autodoc and 306 is used on design911
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
Getting in the air and checking for play in any joints by putting a bar on them and seeing if they move.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
13 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T152433Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
The front end feels a bit "jiggly" and a little uncontrolled.
the shocks are original and the car's done 65k
there's no sign of leaks / damp around the shocks.
The "secondary spring" / bump stop is split on one side, but the bushes etc all look fine.
The "jiggliness" doesn't feel like it's more on one side than another.
The rear shocks were replaced last year (one lost its fluid)
When that went, it didn't feel like this, it was more of a lurch under harder cornering.
So does anyone have experience and / or advice? how do I test the shocks? Or could it be the top mount / bearing?
Please don't just say "go to CoG!" as that would be uneconomical; / unfeasible for me
besides, I like fixing shizzle myself
Could be shocks/top mounts but my money would be on coffin arms if they are original. Getting in the air and checking for play in any joints by putting a bar on them and seeing if they move.
The actual parts for a front end refresh are not wildly expensive if buying pattern parts it's labor and geo that start to add up
Coffin arms were a consideration, but don't they creak when they go?
There wasn't any movement last MOT in May - but obviously they could have gone since!
they are pretty cheap for pattern parts though, labour would be free as I can do the work, geo is about £100
It would be a faff to change them and still have the issue though!! :hand:
Yes, if I was going to do the job (if I had the ability) I'd probably think about a refresh with new shocks top mounts bump stops coffin arms etc. Most bits are relatively cheap from autodoc
I know what you mean. Many a time I have come away from my OPC with a small mix of parts and a big bill. Some parts like plastic clips are crazy cheap, but if it has metal in it it is going to cost. I do use non-Porsche bolts for standard stuff, but there are enough odd size bolts tgat you have no choice. Most bolts simply don't need changing, just nice to fit new ones I guess.
MC
Too right about the parts.
Many a time I've priced a project up yet it's come it at double by the time I've bought the genuine fasteners and things. Bit annoying but as you say Martin it just feels right to fit new everything.
I wish I could be more like Ed China and fit rusty bolts back onto to lovely new parts. :grin:
I still think shocks by the way. I just know that feeling you're on about, the jiggly-ness and lack of confidence. It's always been down to shocks for me but I could well be wrong. I often am. :wink:
the real reason for replacing the bolts?
I can pretty much guarantee that I'll break a few! :nooo:
But..
hexagon flanged nut M14 X 1,5 @ £1.91 +VAT each?!
For a nut?
Think I might have a shop around.....
Current parts cost for the front is £870.41
which is for pretty much everything bar the spring.
The only ones I destroyed doing mine were the eccentric adjuster bolts x 4 on the rear (I reused the nut and washer) and the front strut drop link serves as a bolt to hold the shock in.
Buy them from your local OPC and ask for a discount.
Try carnewal for shocks and springs. Bilstein B4 are the OE shock but Koni special active are well rated and Eibach springs are good.
Question about compressing the front springs?
As they are an odd pyramid shape, is there a particular type of compressor that has to be used? Any tips for doing them right / safely?
ta.
Help!
What's the difference between the part numbers;
99634104306
and
99634104303
That are both described as "Track control arm" the 303 number is used on autodoc and 306 is used on design911
there are two Meyle part numbers:
[phone removed]
[phone removed]
One is £98, the other is £62 from Autodoc..
Spareto lists the cheaper Meyle arm for both the 303 & the 306 numbers.. ebay lists both arms..
Any clues?
I want them for the front of my 2002 C4
Heeeeelppp!!!!
:frustrated:
The difference is the 306 part is a newer revision. The 303 part is an older part number (and older design of the same part).
Searching either will give you a product which fits.
:thumb:
