07 Cayman S CEL, help me diagnose

07 Cayman S 136K miles purchased at 122K miles one year ago. last week I got a check engine light after a fast take off on a cold engine going uphill. The light illuminated and then went away quickly. I pulled over and no light and seemed to run fine. I checked the codes when i got home: Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- ECU reports no other fault codes logged End of report. I checked the oil and was at the bottom of the meter so i added a half quart. and then a few days later i got another check engine light: Current Fault Log ------------------ P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1 P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2 Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- ECU reports no other fault codes logged End of report. I thought it could be that I didn't tighten the oil cap right when i added oil so this morning I took the oil cap off and made sure it was on tight and started it up (seems to run fine, yesterday i did notice some mechanical tapping on a cold start) I wanted to clear the codes with my android reader and i did this while it was running. as soon as i cleared the codes the engine bogged down and sounded like it going to sputter out and die. I let the code reader finish and then shut it down. Turned the engine off and back and and same problem now, the rpms jump around and sound like its going to die. I drove it around my house and it seems to run okay while in motion but when coming to a stop or in neutral it does the sputtering rpm thing. any ideas where to start? Could clearing the codes while running have done something? (seems strange because ive cleared my other cars while running in Park with no issues.) Current Fault Log ------------------ P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1 P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2 Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- ECU reports no other fault codes logged End of report.

Coil packs are a common issue on these cars, and the vehicle will do crazy things when one goes out. You are getting misfires according to your error logs, which is what happens when coil packs go bad. The lack of the cylinder firing correctly can also cause downstream issues with the fuel mixture. In my case I was getting too rich errors until I replaced all 6 of mine myself, and then all problems were resolved. Similar your original issue, my car could be forced into limp mode with all sorts of errors by driving it aggressively or with higher load. It would behave for longer intervals in between the issue if I drove it lightly, but still would ultimately crap out on me again after 30-50 miles of driving before I figured out the source of the issue

Coils are probably on the way out… ya gotta let the high idle to drop before you take off though… its the first short high idle. You “can” take off but you should not be WOT until it warms up properly… granted letting a car sit and get to operating temps isn’t good either.. the whole idea of high idle is getting the cats to start working… all that fuel is not what your cylinder walls need tho… so, the short 1-2 minute warm up and take it easy until she’s warm..

yup, normally i wait until high idle to drop. Still a little concerned about clearing the codes causing some sort of other issue. Seems strange to me that it would just start sputtering about right when they cleared. Any other ideas before i have to take the wheels off and mess with the coils? I will change the spark plugs too if have the coils off.

Regarding the plugs, multiple extensions of differing lengths will keep your approach to a plug deep in the head more on square even with the universal joint on it. This will reduce the opportunities to snap one, my apology if you already knew but one member is dealing with a stuck third of a plug right now, better to repeat the info. Use penetrant if they have been in a while and use progressive force easy is better.

thanks for the info. yes this will be the first time doing plugs on this porsche .

Buy a complete set of coil packs to install at the same time. There is no additional labor required and if they're the originals at 136k miles - they're done. Put new ones in (use OE, Bosch or Beru) and you know then what the condition of them is.

Got home and started it again, started fine. (no cel since i cleared it) I let it come to temp and then revved it to 2K and let off and the idle was running high (just under 1K) tried shifting it into drive and reverse and noticed some jumps in rpm . Notably when in drive it sits at 600-700, when i shift to Park it revs and settles at 900. I dont remember it doing that before. Seems like its still running a little rough too. I think coils and sparks are not a bad thing to try since i think its due anyways. is this what im looking for:? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/ignition-coil-update-kit/99760210402kt1/

That's it. I paid about $300 for all 6 coils for my 981 from Suncoast , and my OEM Bosch plugs that the dealer will gladly charge $25 EACH for are $35 a SET on Amazon

Older revision coil packs for 987.1 are prone to cracking. That kit looks to have the new revision part (99760210402) which is what you want. just make sure where ever you get them that they are the newer revision if you're not going with that kit specifically.

Just changed coils and plugs, test drive was fine until up to temp and still hufffing when coming to a stop.

What tool are you reading the faults with? Some are better than others.. and some allow monitoring things like timing and mixture (which is where I suspect your problem is..) The lean mixture reports at idle might mean the fuel pressure at the injectors isn't correct. There is also the MAF - and a good tool should let you see what the readings from the MAF are doing (plus the actual O2 sensor outputs..)

I'm using torque on android. Currently no cel, since reset. But I also haven't driven it much because of the rough idle. I was planning on cleaning the maf tomorrow. I'll look into what sensors are available on torque.

Photos of the plugs: 2 new items by Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo photos.app.goo.gl Started it up after dinner and now its running really rough. lights are dimming from the surging. see this vid: (again this surging started the moment i reset my cel with torque while the engine was running) - YouTube Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. youtube.com

also a very strong fuel smell...

Pulled the engine cover off to take a look. Air filter look horrible. lots of oil grime on the air filter side. also pretty oily right around the air oil separator too. photos: 12 new items by Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo photos.app.goo.gl Started it up and died right away. Its running even worse now. not sure what to do next.

First of all why are you checking or resetting codes with the engine running. You check codes with the ignition on but engine off and do the same to reset codes. That being said I would check the voltage back to the battery while running. It should be high 13's to 14's voltage wise. Many issues can arise from a bad alternator not supplying enough voltage. Then I would check the coils and plugs. I don't really think that you "damaged" anything by doing what you did. I'd say it is purely coincidental, but is is weird. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Yes, that was my mistake to reset the CEL while running. I cant imagine that caused any damage either. So i cant even get the car to stay running today to check voltage while running. Plugs and coils are new.

what did your coil packs look like? were there any cracks? i would suggest checking/cleaning the MAF sensor as well.

I didnt inspect the coil packs carefully since i had new ones to install. I have the torx bit coming today so ill clean the MAF once that arrives but its running so bad i cant imagine that would make much of a difference. Here is the cold start from this morning.

That rough idle video you posted in #14 above sounds like its running on only 3 cylinders!

yea, its something very very wrong. listen to the one in the last post (20) its worse than that.

latest code read (these didnt show up until i disconnected the MAF and started it) Vehicle VIN: WP0AB29877U781573 Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present Current Fault Log ------------------ P1090: [ BMW ] Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 1 Pending Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no pending faults Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- U0401: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web End of report.

Cleaned the Maf, no change . I can keep it running with the gas pedal pressed. But when I let go it slowly dies. Rpm s get slower and slower. Is that a fuel delivery issue? Or more of a too lean situation? Strong fuel smell for sure.

A strong fuel smell usually doesn't mean lean...just the opposite. Running fat or too rich. Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

Oh my. And oh my. The first "Oh my" is your first video with the awful idle. The engine is obviously missing, what's a mystery is why the ECU isn't turning off the injectors for the cylinders that are miss firing. It's supposed to in order to avoid flooding. The strong fuel smell is a clue there. Oh my #2 - that's about as bad-looking an engine compartment as I've ever seen. The air filter is no longer filtering air. The rips in it indicate it's had a rough life, and I bet the pleats are full of whatever the sandlike dust that's covering everything in the engine compartment is. You put 14,000 miles after purchasing it - and I'm guessing with no service besides oil services? At 120k miles a major service was due, and given the condition of the engine compartment, I can promise that was never done. There may also be a leak in a hose in your 4th picture in your gallery, where the hose is up against a sharp edge of what I assume is the AOS . You need a new air filter. You should clean the engine compartment BEFORE installing the new air filter. Your MAF undoubtedly is dirty (CRC makes a specific electrical cleaner for the MAF - big box auto parts stores carry it). The AOS may have failed (it certainly wouldn't be a surprise given how the rest of the engine looks, it has obviously been ignored for a long long time..) You really should do the entire 120k mile service, but you can skip things like the serpentine belt until you have the engine running correctly again, the belt isn't causing this. I question using Torque to read the codes. Does it have a separate Porsche module (I own it, but can't recall one), if not - Torque is only reading the OBD -II codes. In that case, there may be lots more codes stored away in the ECU that Torque simply can't read. There are also faults that the Torque probably can't reset. Since it's a 987, the tool I'd recommend is the Foxwell NT530 with Porsche module. It offers good coverage of the 987 series cars. If it wasn't for the strong smell of fuel I'd be questioning the fuel pressure. The strong smell of fuel also brings up the possibility that an injector has failed and is leaking fuel into a cylinder.

If this was a Porsche-specific tool, to me, this would point to a cooked ECU. Since it's a Cayman not a Boxster I wouldn't expect to hear of water flooding of the ECU unless at some time the vehicle had been involved in a flood that never got to CarFax (assuming you have a Carfax on the car.) You haven't mentioned (that I remember) where you're located - if you did perhaps some member nearby might have a Porsche diagnostics tool and could come to do a house visit on your Cayenne. Did you happen to keep the old plugs? And number them as you removed them? Perhaps take some closeup photos for us. BTW - please don't use off-site albums to post photos. If your off-site album goes away for any reason your photos here will disappear making the thread useless for other people in the future who might read it (and need to learn from it.) Please DO upload your photos here. Resize them before posting so they are a maximum width of 1024, which makes it easier on people without gigabit connections.

Deluge of images to follow, did not resize so apologies for those with slow connections: thanks for the thoughtful response. Trying to answer in the order you asked: 1.) air filter - yes, filter is horrible. The rips were from me trying to just pull the pleats apart and it was so dry rotted it just ripped. 2.) oil/filter changes done when i first took possession. Nothing else engine related, now it has new plugs/coils, cleaned MAF, brakes/rotors/fluid change. 3.) The hose was rubbing against the edge of the AOS , but is not leaking yet. 4.) Im located in So California (inland empire) i have access to a iCarsoft POR II device. 5.) I kept the old plugs but did not label them. You can see them in the photos below. not sure if its detailed enough to judge. 6.) ECU fried? thats been one of my worries after i cleared the codes and its been acting haywire since. Ive seen used ones on ebay and other places for 150$. is it simply a swap? probably needs some form of programming? 7.) as far as i know Torque doesnt have a specific Porsche mode. 8.) pulled the MAF out and cleaned it with specific maf cleaner . (photo of that below) 9.) coolant was pink and looked fine. 10.) i do have some service records and the transmission was replaced at 110K i believe. so not that long ago. quick recap: started as a CEL light that was a misfire but the light turned off right away and seemed fine. Code: Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected later that week i got a CEL for : (still seemed to be running fine) Code: Current Fault Log ------------------ P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1 P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2 Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected I think this when i cleared the codes while running (engine did what its doing now... so that was the first moment that it started running rough): Code: Current Fault Log ------------------ P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1 P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2 Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected Changed the plugs and coils: Code: Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected disconnected MAF and started: Code: Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ P1090: [BMW] Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 1 Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- U0401: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web car was towed into a mechanic this afternoon. Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content

Thanks for bringing the photos on-line so to speak. Your plugs are telling me a story of sorts. It looks like two of them have been working harder or longer than the others. From the photos, it appears the last 2 in the photo (most to the right) have significantly shorter metal center electrodes. On these 4 prong plugs - that's the part that erodes away as the plug is fired. I wonder if someone was lazy changing plugs last time and didn't do the two harder-to-reach ones? It would be better seeing them in person, but we're 3,000 miles apart so that's not happening, but the fuel mixture and temperature range on them appear OK. It looks like there are light tan deposits very thin deposits on the center ceramic of the plug . That's what is considered desirable. I can't see a big difference in the color of any one of the plugs - which would indicate a cylinder misfiring or a mixture imbalance. If it were me - at this point I'd replace the MAF. If you don't want to pay the Porsche tax on the part - you can do a search on Bosch F 00C 262 063, or F 00C 2G2 063 - I think that might be productive. The older MAF's had an exposed sensor that could be fairly easily cleaned with the spray. The newer ones they've enclosed the sensor - and it's not as easy to clean, or on some not even possible. Hopefully the mechanic has a Porsche diagnostics tool and can give further insight into what's really going on with your engine. Please keep us up to date.. that's what makes the forum a valuable source for learning from the misery of others..