RMS seal replacement (tool)

I'm gathering up the kit of parts, tools, etc in preparation for taking the gearbox off my C2 and sending it up to Mike at Sports & Classic as it's getting a wee bit whiny and tired. Part of that will be to flip of the IMS bearing dust seal, replace the IMS spider (it'll very likely be original and have the O ring seal rather than the later type), and replacing the RMS. Of course, it might not be leaking, but given there's a reasonable amount of oil around the junction of the gearbox>Engine, I'm guessing that's unlikely. My main ask is: Does anyone know the best place to locate a fitting tool for the seal? I'm not happy with knocking it in by hand, it's too big and too fraught with the possibility for error, so would like to find the best way of fitting it. Now I'm sure the original factory tool costs many hundreds of pounds and is made of unobtanium, but does anyone know of a suitable aftermarket solution? Suffice to say I'll take pics and write up a thread as I go through the process of dismantling and reassembling the car.

I've seen it written in a few threads a piece of 3" plastic pipe, a plate/flat bar over the end then use some bolts into the flywheel fixings in the crank to pull it up slow and even. I'd buy the seal then find a piece of suitable pipe. Ian

I borrowed one off a guy called "gixxer" on here You can see I reused the old IMS cover and used plenty of sealant.

Before the loan of that tool I was going to make one like this: http://burnerscars.blogspot.com/2016/09/rms-seal-installer.html

This is actually the tool .. https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod...g-and-seal-housing-Porsche-986-Boxster---996/ The seal Must be pushed in correctly , it must sit at a slighlty different depth from the old seal , it must Not be lubricated .. Porsche instructions there . i have many years ago useing this tool torn a seal .. first and last one as i check the edges of the case far better now . Basically it needs to be pushed in evenly .. you cant just hit the top of the seal and then the bottom to work it in ... even pressure all around it useing what ever you decide to push it in . Its not the end of the world if you get it wrong .. but you may well end up takeing the box back out if you do .

Thanks all. Wasz - I've already got the new design IMS spider; short of engine out (and I'm still 50/50 on taking the lot out!) there's quite a lot of jobs I plan to do on the car: * AOS and breather pipes as there's oil mist at the bottom of the AOS that collects and dribbles down the engine, and oil on the other bank from the breather hose coupling. * Clutch/Flywheel * RMS * Gearbox rebuild * IMS spider, flip out the IMS bearing dust seal * IMS chain and cam chain tensioners * Variocam solenoid sealing 'lids' - both weep slightly * Engine mounts (964 RS ones) * Gearbox mount (for a 997 style) * Rear brake pipes, and pipe from the junction block under the rear floor to the passenger side junction. * Aux belt pullies as they all go 'wheeeeeeee'. 997 plastic bodied ones are going on - Porsche stuck them on instead of the metal type to remove some torsional mass, and I don't like how the metal ones make the belt go rusty brown! * And a damned good service (as it's due).. £580 is a bit too much for a one-use tool.. I'll have to see if I can get something made up, or cobble something together with a bit of PVC pipe!

Take the engine out, if your experience with the AOS is to be anything like mine it will be quicker to do so. And you can inspect the oil cooler and fuel rails easier too. only extra costs really are an ATV jack to sit the engine on and air con recharge unless the compressor can be removed and dangled (not sure about this). You do have to get the car really high in the air though.

Thats useful advice Wasz. I am about to bite the bullet and drop my engine, to replace the over-engine brake line, plus replace AOS, sort my starter motor and sort an oil leak (IMS or RMS, not sure yet!) Have just bought an ATV jack off ebay - think it was £69 incl delivery.

By pure coincidence I happened upon a Bentley RMS video on you tube. They show you how to use the tool but also, they remove, reinstall and torque the main engine case bolts above and below the seal before replacing it - which I thought was interesting... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7OAoVbATCsc&t=211s

Yes replace those too and seal them up as they can be the source of of weeping oil.

Good spot - I had new encapsulated bolts for the IMS spider, but will remove each case bolt and loctite/threadlock them for sealing..

I ended up buying a tool from the states - total comes to £500 odd, that EPS one looks to be tailored just to the EPS rear bearing. Crazy money for something I'll use once, but I want to fit and forget the seal; and being PTFE, it'll be sensitive to being poorly installed. For those of you who plan to do this job in the future, I'll be offering a 'rental' service once I've finished with the tool, as it's always nice to have a proper tool available for use if needed..