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YOUR RESEARCHThoughts on cam-locking tool set
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Use 8mm drill bits
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have read threads where people have used 8mm drill bits and then bought the bolt-on locking tool separately - however cant see anywhere that sells the bolt-n bit on its own.
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You can just make one out of some flat plate, I used alloy check my thread linked below.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Wasz - thanks for the bearing check advice - am comfortable following that.
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Suggestion · Original poster
Also - are there any 'how-to' guides on actually checking the bearing for play?
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I have read threads where people have used 8mm drill bits and then bought the bolt-on locking tool separately - however cant see anywhere that sells the bolt-n bit on its own.
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911uk: 1 discussions
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Would appreciate any advice.....
Am planning on dropping the gearbox, as I have a leak between the engine and gearbox, thats got progressively worse. its either the RMS or IMS seal leaking - will find out soon enough!
Whilst in there, was planning on checking the IMS bearing and removing the dust-cover. To check the bearing, I want to lock the crank and cams at TDC and loosen the chain tensioners. So was looking at this set.....
I have read threads where people have used 8mm drill bits and then bought the bolt-on locking tool separately - however cant see anywhere that sells the bolt-n bit on its own. I know Alex used to make them, but don't think he does anymore.
This looks the cheapest option to get the bolt-on tool?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362551491106
Also - are there any 'how-to' guides on actually checking the bearing for play?
Thanks in Advance!
You can just make one out of some flat plate, I used alloy check my thread linked below. They are different for 3 and 5 chain engines so make the right one!
Bearing you are looking for radial and axial play. Does it feel smooth? Too loose? Too tight? Is it clean in there--will be full of black oil but should be nothing else. Stop the bearing cage with something - will it still spin?
It's a feel thing.... I've dealt with lots of this type of bearing in other applications and you get a feel for them...
Didn't think you needed to lock cams for doing this job. Just lock the crank and slacken bank 1 chain tensioner off.
I got all the info I needed to do mine off GrahamL's post on here:
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=95475&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=87
I just done this job, instead of doing IMS leak I end up with engine out, my tool was made from 3mm aluminium bar I will take picture tomorrow for you, you can buy on ebay bar for £4.29 if you are handy with tools about 1h to do it.
Before you lock engine take gearbox out first and do these checks, you will need camera to do it:
1. oil cooler- look for any leak coolant/oil
2. fuel rails- spin engine and go under car quick and take a look for leaks mine was corroded and leak badly, I think you will feel the smell of fuel as I did
3. behind alternator you will find oil guide tube not sure if this is something common but mine was badly corroded or should I say part of it was missing
4. any oil on engine under AC compressor- this could be oil from power steering, if oil under alternator check oil filler tube,
IF
1 and 2 are bad you will need take engine out so there is no need for you to do RMS or IMS on car better do it wiht engine out
5. check alternator pulley
GOOD LUCK :thumb:
Thanks - as always this forum comes up trumps!
Sounds like I dont need the tool at all (just an 8mm drill) - thanks for the link to the thread Alex!
Wasz - thanks for the bearing check advice - am comfortable following that.
Szymon - useful picture - shows what Wasz was suggesting. Also thanks for the advice about other bits to consider. I may end up taking the engine out, as I have some oil leaking around my AOS.
Depends if you take a brave pill first. There is a risk of movement.... Small and I understand lots of people don't bother. It would have been very awkward for me if it did move so I locked it up.
Hmm - for the sake of a £50 tool (or potentially free, if I make it myself) - I think I may err on the side of caution. (I am using up all my brave pills dropping the gearbox and potentially engine in the first place)
Once you start locking cams, you've to then replace cam end caps as removing your old ones makes them not fit for use. So long as the chains are slack and the engine's locked I can't see anything going wrong, so long as you're not trying to extract the bearing or press a replacement in.
Thanks - I have just ordered 2 caps (£10 incl postage!) - having read the thread, I should only need to remove two of the caps.
Realise it may not be entirely necessary, but would rather go belt and braces.
Was just surfing round the forum(
http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=102469
) and found this tool that Harv had made. Being lazy, think it will be easier for me to make a tool with my mig that is similar to this (wont be exactly the same), rather than trying to cut 3 lots of 2mm plate to create an exact replica of the Porsche tool.