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YOUR RESEARCHdouble pip and unlock
Leading reported evidence
Use plunger in the old switch
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1
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Suggestion
Apparently, you can unclip the top part of the switch, and use the new plunger in the old switch.
Leading evidence: 'Use plunger in the old switch' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Use plunger in the old switch' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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15 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Door lock microswitch. The one which tells the system the lock is engaged - inside the lock mechanism.
The only way to lock your car will be with the key. Turn it to the lock position and back 3 times in quick succession.
Yep, all alarm microswitches must register closure.
So all doors, (engine) decks, (Targa) hatches, (petrol) flaps, (glove) boxes and (oddments compartment) lids must be closed.
The cab hood will only complain if it is either not fully stowed (open) or not latched shut (closed).
The car will lock via remote if one of the compartments is open, but you get a SINGLE-beep from the alarm horn as a warning. A DOUBLE-beep means there is a system fault (such as the microswitch in this case).
For the last 3 months when locking my car with the remote there are two beeps,the lights flash and the car stays unlocked.I press the remote control again and the car locks and alarms as normal.
Occasionally the car will lock as normal at the first attempt.
I will get it investigated when I have my car serviced in a couple of months time.
£250 to fix
Well, I took it into Strasse in Leeds, they did a diagnostics test and the passenger lock is the culprit. Apparently the whole lock needs to be changed at a cost of £130 or so plus labour = £250. It's booked in on tuesday - hmmmff :nooo:
It is usually the plunger on the microswitch which breaks. There have been a couple of threads on RennTech about it.
The switch is very similar to this one, bit I don't know if it is exactly the same:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/6160388.html
Apparently, you can unclip the top part of the switch, and use the new plunger in the old switch.
Here is a RennTech thread about it:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/inde..._p__171994?s=2078b58d03ffed36d290d56497c409c9
Do I win the pedant of the year prize by pointing out that the hood is ALWAYS "either not fully stowed or not latched shut"? Don't you mean "neither fully stowed nor latched shut"? :wink:
I thought so.. I'll get my coat.. :coat:
