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YOUR RESEARCHMobil 1 Recommendations
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Check with the physical dip-stick
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Suggestion
So in any case (and during top-up) you should regard the display as being a reminder to double check with the physical dip-stick.
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Suggestion
I use a 5W-40 in mine (Fuchs Titan Sypersyn), and next time I change the oil will probably look for a 10W-50.
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Suggestion
I take a more pragmatic view that if it is changed regular with only few miles any quality brand is suitable.
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Suggestion
It also constitutes almost 20% of an oil change volume, which again can't realistically be considered just a top-up!
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Suggestion
A newer engine design with high tolerance and high specific output (technologically advanced) or low miles should use a 0W.
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Was just wondering what the preferred option is for Mobil 1 from all out there. I'm looking to top up my 996TT and I know it's using Mobil 1, just not sure which one... so is there a preference 0W-40 or 5W-50... or is it irrelevant?
I also noticed a few threads indicating never to let the level drop below 2 bars from max... mine is at 3 bars now... whats the actual concensus on this?
Cheers
Kiwi
15W-50 went in mine as a 'thicker' oil seems to be preferred amongst Indys' for older cars/engine - despite mine having done only 51k (that's 3k less than Highways :thumb: . Had to get that in 'cause I'm amazed at him (a) buying one and (b) finding such a good one).
You will get a full spectrum of advice here regarding oil. I take a more pragmatic view that if it is changed regular with only few miles any quality brand is suitable.
Had the garage not used Mobil1 I would have been more than happy with Castol Magnatec.
996 and Turbo engines may follow a different logic. :dont know:
Re: 0W or 5W
5W is for older less "tolerant" engine designs or higher states of wear. A newer engine design with high tolerance and high specific output (technologically advanced) or low miles should use a 0W.
Some indy's prescribe a 5W as it stops/prevents misting of seals (as it is more viscous). But this is not the reason to use it.
Firstly that action would be to mask a problem that really should have an engineering/maintenance solution (ie 5W is used as a bodge fix) and secondly does not actually take into account the engine's mechanical needs and primary reason for the 0W choice.
There are issues with a 5W possibly taking longer to both fully lubricate and mechanically supply tappets at start up. It is exceptionally thin though (it is a racing specification).
The suggestion, re: 2 bars, was to top up little and often.
Technically the car is not in danger of damage as long as the MINIMUM level is not breached. (although, that strictly does not take into account extreme G-forces which can create oil starvation problems above the MINIMUM lvel).
The point is, a single digital bar may be lit/unlit based on 5ml (a spoonful) change in volume either way. This poses a danger of overfil if you interpret the "just" unlit bar meaning the car wants 250 ml oil.
However, two bars means the car needs at least 250ml (between 250 and 500 ml) top up. So it is worth topping up now.
If you let the display drop to MINIMUM before deciding to do something you pose THREE issues:
If once warned (by flashing display of MINIMUM breach) you are not equipped/ready with oil you endanger the car by further use. ie will you really miss that meeting and stay at home until your order of oil has arrived? No.
The display is an "estimate" and may be too generous if the car is not level parked when measured. So in any case (and during top-up) you should regard the display as being a reminder to double check with the physical dip-stick.
The full "top-up" required from MINIMUM is 1.5 litres, which is outside of Porsche's definition of a top-up as it would require two bottles (OK, one and a half) of top-up oil. It also constitutes almost 20% of an oil change volume, which again can't realistically be considered just a top-up!
NB: Bars on All Turbo and Facelift = 200 ml
I use a 5W-40 in mine (Fuchs Titan Sypersyn), and next time I change the oil will probably look for a 10W-50. My reasoning is that the Turbo IS an older engine design. With my 3.4 C2, it virtually eliminated the start-up clatter and odd puff of smoke. Being slightly thicker, it not only takes a whisker longer to pump up the tappets, but also to drain down.
Although factory fill for new engines is Mobil 1 0W-40, there are more 5W-40 listings on the approved oils list now.
The oil capacity of the Turbo is 12.5 litres, so 600mls (3 bars) is less than 5%. Don't forget that it is dry sump, so it is only the tank level which is dropping a bit.
Just my 2p's worth.
