Reducing Rear Camber

I have read most all the great posts on adding more camber and setting up the 987.1 Cayman ’s for a better street/Track set up but I would like some direction and options on how to REDUCE my rear camber. I currently have PSS9’s Instaled with a 1” drop. While I do track my car at Mosport 4-5 weekends every summer I do enjoy taking it out on spirited drives. My wife and I also like to take it on long trips so I am not looking for to much of an aggressive set up causing excessive tire wear. I am currently running 245 fronts and 275 rears on MPS4’s. My goal was to try and get 1.8-1.9 camber on the fronts with a 0 Toe and 1.5-1.6 camber with a 1/16 total Toe in on the rears. This has been mentioned by many members as a decent set up with having a close to 5 deg difference between front and rear. I originally set the fronts to 1.95 but found it to be a bit to much so I dialed it back to 1.8 with 0 Toe with no problems. When I got to the rears, the best I could get was 1.93 on the drivers side and 2.04 on the passenger side. This is were I’m stuck... Trying to reduce the camber is going to involve changes but raising the rear of the car and increasing the rake is not an option I want to make. I like the ride height I set and now need to figure a way to reduce my rear camber. If anyone who’s experienced this situation and sorted it out or someone with suspension geometry experience, I would love to hear what you did or what recommendation you have to set up the right balance - wether it be parts, settings or a combination of both. Thanks chris

Interesting but I having never really tried to on a 987.1 - only 986 years ago but hopefully one the techer guys will respond. I'll be watching.

Augie Im at a standstill trying to figure it out. I didn’t think dropping the car that little would not alow me to achieve 1.5-1.6 at the rear. I know LCA’s help with adding camber but is there enough movement to bring it back a little. I don’t want to spend that kind of cash to find out it doesn’t make a difference. I also searched and found a few guys mentioned that adding adjustable drop links can bring the camber back some???. I’m hoping someone with a ton more experience with suspension will jump in to point me in the right direction. For now I’ll disconnect the drop link to release any preload tension and see if that changes the camber. I don’t mind more camber but not at the cost of replacing tires every 6K. I drive about 8000km a year and only a fraction of that is track. I don’t have a bank account to support buying new tires every 5-6K so im trying to find that balance of noticing an improvement at the track while still enjoying regular driving. If anyone has any suggestions please send them my way. Im not afraid to get my hand dirty trying any of your suggestions if they might work. I’ve done a ton of work on my car including figuring out how to make the third rad for our Caymans direct the air flow out the top like the GT3 ’s. It’s a combination of parts and some elbow grease to do it but it works. For a diy project it is definitely a 5/5 but doable. If anyone is interested PM me and I’ll give you all the parts and guidance needed to make it work. Once I get it dialed in I will post what’s needed for others in my situation.

Generally there is enough adjustment left in the rear to reduce camber but in doing so you can't get Toe set correctly. So the easiest way is to add adjustable rear toe arms in the rear. If that doesn't do the trick - then your only solution is adjustable control arms.

-2 degrees of camber is not going to cause a substantial amount of wear if the toe is set correctly. Certainly not enough to wear out a set of tires over only 5000 miles.

I had the same problem, too much negative camber at the rear after dropping height one inch all around via PSS9s. Mine is a DD and never tracked, so tire wear was a concern. What I did was slot the holes in the body and move the top mounts outward. Shifted enough to gain about 1/4 degree positive. Easy to accomplish after removing all the interior trim, again... Couple of notes: I did not disassemble the struts. There was enough clearance to lever out the top mount. Used a 3 or 4 foot pipe thru the lower suspension to pry the assembly down and slide the top mount out of the holes and out of the way. Then used a die grinder to slot the holes. You might be able to move further outward if also cut the formed lip around the center hole in the body. However, I believe doing so will significantly weaken the structure. You would need to add some additional stiffening. The flat washer for the one stud closest to the center of the vehicle needed to be ground on. Flatten and narrow one side to enable the maximum movement. The washer hits the lip mentioned above. You'll need to use a crows foot to torque that one nut. Its unlikely both side will gain exactly the same amount, so you will still need to use the eccentrics to balance side to side. I considered, but chose not to attempting shifting the brackets that the lower control arm bolts in to. The holes to where it bolts to the frame are elongated and designed to allow some movement. However, I could see no way of ensuring controlled movement and visually appeared to lack enough clearance for any significant movement.

I did this to my 2000 BS but get more negative camber on the front since I could only get -0.75. Difference purpose but same method.

I agree with Red that -2.0 in the rear if the toe is not extreme should not wear the inside tire that much. You may need an adjustable rear toe link to reduce your toe to about 12 minutes. If you experience brake wiggle on threshold braking while using reduced toe, you might consider solid thrust bushings in your LCA's or a Pedro Technobrace. The solid thrust bushings keep the toe in alignment as the LCA's lift and compress. Technobrace prevents frame rails from torquing, changing alignment during hard braking and on turn in.

I appreciate all the replies. I slotted the fronts to get additional camber but I’m a little hesitant to do the rears without cutting to close to the lip. Adjusting Toe doesn’t seam to be a problem, I am able to get positive or neg camber with the esentric bolt set at minimum camber. A couple guys mentioned that tire wear shouldn’t be an issue so I’m going to try setting my rears at -2.1 with 1/32 toe in per side and keep an eye on tire wear. I did notice while under the car that there was quite a bit of preload on my sways with the stock drop links so I disconnected them to see what length is needed to keep 0 preload. In order to keep 0 preload I’ll have to get longer adjustable drop links. I would have thought lowering the car would require shorter drop links??. I’m either looking at Enze links or piece together my own. I’m trying to keep the noise (clanking) to a minimum.

Excellant, if you stay with PSS9's, a corner balance would help equalize your turnin left to right after installing your new hardware but before your final alignment. With corner balance, adjustable downlinks are a necessity to prevent preloading the swaybars. Tarett makes a good down link that so far does not rattle after 15k miles/2years of track/daily use (extended front downlink) prevent binding with a dropped car).