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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHStereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Leading reported evidence
Test few months ago as working okay
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
(despite some distortion from some of the door speakers, but I'm guessing those speakers must be blown/torn) and the amp was professionally bench tested a few months ago as working okay.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
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Leading evidence: 'Test few months ago as working okay' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'speakers themselves' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check those darn wire-tap connections' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
Source reports, not a diagnosis or a success probability. Counts refer to discussions and can overlap.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause
Turns out it was fine from the tests...and it's likely the speakers themselves that are failing on one door per the distortion.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Check those darn wire-tap connections
Suggestion or failed attempt
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0
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
I was ready to tear up the car again thinking it was a faulty wire, but check those darn wire-tap connections and use a
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Check wire taps
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Use speaker-level signals
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions
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Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that contain suggestions
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Suggestion · Original poster
It is possible the ASK amp uses the speaker-level signals for the inputs - which IMHO is rather dumb, but maybe it avoids a stage of input amplification in the actual amp.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Test few months ago as working okay
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
(despite some distortion from some of the door speakers, but I'm guessing those speakers must be blown/torn) and the amp was professionally bench tested a few months ago as working okay.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Use speaker-level signals
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
Discussions that contain suggestions
1
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion · Original poster
It is possible the ASK amp uses the speaker-level signals for the inputs - which IMHO is rather dumb, but maybe it avoids a stage of input amplification in the actual amp.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Use wire hanger)
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Reported fixes
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Discussions that contain suggestions
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
was back behind the HU, above the cardboard in the passenger footwell, down through the door channel (remove the door sill after removing the one Torx screw, behind the seat belt cover, across the car behind the carpeting, behind the right seat belt cover, under the rear carpet, through the hole into the trunk, behind the carpeting on the left side, through the hole where the left tail light goes, and then wire fish it from there (using a wire hanger) to the hole behind the license plate.
Stereo: Power but no sound (Sound Package Plus aka SPP)
Coverage and how to read this overview
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
0 evidence records excluded for query context · 2 excluded by outcome qualification · 0 adjusted by outcome qualification.
1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
head unit that was $175 and new-in-box as a Facebook Marketplace purchase (the guy had bought 2 of these but they didn't work in a Japanese car (I think JDM).
Hey everyone,
I'm in the middle of installing a new head unit in my
987.2
to replace my
CDR-30
. It's a
Sony
AX-150 - a budget model with
CarPlay
that I got brand new-in-box off of Facebook Marketplace. This was a project I started during the winter (soldering the harness, etc.) and am finally getting around to installing this HU (head unit).
Anyhow, after a bit of struggling, I FINALLY figured out the wiring and made the connections, so I finally got power to the unit and got it to turn on and pull in radio stations -- so that's a plus.
This being said, I don't have any sound. NONE. (At least yet!)
This being said, from previous threads I read long ago, it was recommended that if one has a functioning stock ASK amp (underneath the passenger seat...again...this is NOT a
BOSE system
), to just continue to use that and use the wiring harness with the adapter.
I have a feeling that something is going on where the ASK amp is now not turning on. It was working just fine yesterday with the
CDR-30
(despite some distortion from some of the door speakers, but I'm guessing those speakers must be blown/torn) and the amp was professionally bench tested a few months ago as working okay.
Thoughts? (
@deilenberger
- I'm looking in your direction!)
Thanks, everyone.
Sometimes if you literally sleep on a problem, you might wake up and find the answer (that happens for me sometimes). My issue isn't necessarily solved here, but at least I have the
next
plan of attack (which sort of makes sense?) that I'm going to check out today.
There was one wire from the
Sony
wire harness that is blue/white, that goes to send a signal to send power to an electronic telescoping antenna -- so I just taped it off. I didn't realize that it can also be the "wake" signal for an external amplifier -- which I'm guessing would be the ASK amplifier in this case. Apparently that wire one taps off the wires found in the blue plastic section of the OEM harness (NOT the Metra aftermarket harness adapter). It gets really confusing with which wire that is, given that they're apparently different colors in different models. I believe in the the
987.2
, it's the white/red wire. This being said, later today I'm going to try and hook that up and see what happens.
Meanwhile, I was under the impression that the ASK amp only powers the bass in the doors and the center channel, and the OEM HU powered the remaining SPP speakers -- hence my confusion. Anyone have any insights on this, let me know. I'm fairly confident with electronic wiring voodoo, but I'll admit that I was never a car stereo guy per aftermarket amps, etc. -- but electronics are electronics!
Are you certain you have an amp? Have you felt it? The real "base" audio system AFAIK didn't use an amp. The speakers were powered directly off the
Since you asked..
First - are you sure you have an ASK amp? The reason I ask this is I found that the wiring diagrams for the CDR30 that I could find show it as having speaker level outputs, and I didn't see any indication of outputs going to discrete audio level outputs. That doesn't mean you don't have an amp - but on my '09, which came with the CDR30 from the factory, the wiring that went to the back of the CDR30 went directly to the loudspeakers, with no separate amp involved. I never really went looking for one under the passenger seat, but since I've hooked up other speakers directly to these same outputs in parallel to the existing speakers, I'm guessing there is no amp in my car. Maybe.
It is possible the ASK amp uses the speaker-level signals for the inputs - which IMHO is rather dumb, but maybe it avoids a stage of input amplification in the actual amp.
I'm guessing you can tell via a VIN lookup...
Hi, Don - Thanks for chiming in!
Yup...absolutely. The dreaded and prone-to-failure ASK amplifier is located under the passenger seat in a
987.2
(it's in the frunk in a
987.1
), and it's there all right. I had to take it out/put it back in a few times, particularly having sent it out to CA to be bench tested as often that's the part that fails. Turns out it was fine from the tests...and it's likely the speakers themselves that are failing on one door per the distortion.
I think what may be happening is that the
CDR-30
just sends everything to the ASK directly. From previous threads (which I can't find), I believe the ASK then splits up the signal to create the center channel on the dash...and it was recommended to someone else in a previous thread to just leave the ASK in there if it's already there.
Looking forward to testing that blue wire later and seeing if I'll get sound!
...and that was the answer! Fired right up as I had hoped. So yes - the ASK amp takes all the inputs and I guess processes it for the 3-channel front sound (which sounds kind of nice, frankly with this new head unit)...and then sends it back out the speakers.
Only thing that became super-clear is that multiple speakers are clearly shot! But that will be another project for another day.
Thanks as always for your wonderful expertise,
@deilenberger
! Now to find the thread how to hook up the rear camera on the 987 without taking the bumper off.
Final update - Install done! Replacement speakers will be
next
, plus the rear speakers from
Suncoast
(whenever they arrive).
A few things:
1) Check and double-check your wire taps. Posi-taps are really the way to go, although they're not cheap. My kit came with crappy ones that did NOT make great connections. First, the camera did not come on, and
next
- the camera wouldn't automatically trigger when in reverse. I was ready to tear up the car again thinking it was a faulty wire, but check those darn wire-tap connections and use a
multimeter
before you rip up your work. Half the time, the aftermarket ones barely seem to cut into the insulation.
2) To confirm, the wire path (RCA video plus convenience wire) path in the
987.2
was back behind the HU, above the cardboard in the passenger footwell, down through the door channel (remove the door sill after removing the one Torx screw, behind the seat belt cover, across the car behind the carpeting, behind the right seat belt cover, under the rear carpet, through the hole into the trunk, behind the carpeting on the left side, through the hole where the left tail light goes, and then wire fish it from there (using a wire hanger) to the hole behind the license plate. A heck of a lot easier than in the
981
, which required the rear bumper removal.
3) Again, not bad for a very inexpensive head
Sony
head unit that was $175 and new-in-box as a Facebook Marketplace purchase (the guy had bought 2 of these but they didn't work in a Japanese car (I think JDM). Yeah, it's a little rough as
Sony
's low-end HU, but it's fine in that it has
CarPlay
and a backup camera -- which makes it revolutionary. Yes,
CarPlay
only works tethered -- but mostly I'll use it for
Waze
and that requires a tethered connection to keep the battery charged anyway.
Looking forward to seeing how things roll per the unit in the
next
few months.
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