21 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHEngine Mounts
Leading reported evidence
Use stock replacements
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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0
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1
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Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
I used stock replacements from Pelican Parts and it's like a new car.
Leading evidence: 'Use stock replacements' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Inspect bushings as they are obstructed' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
Will be hard to inspect bushings as they are obstructed.
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Recommend rear - inboard suspension pick-up, rear sub frame
Suggestion or failed attempt
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Suggestion
Just for reference, here's a shot of the jack point we recommend for the rear - inboard suspension pick-up, rear sub frame.
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Suggestion
After fixing my cayenne which has similar noises, thst users ovserve and repair, i would tackle these noises in shown order.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
21 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
6SpeedOnline: 1 discussions
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1 acknowledgements have no verified action link; they do not establish a repair result.
Outcome without a verified action link
1) I have a Craftsman low profile jack and it worked great.
Just finished up replacing the motor mounts on my '99 C2. I used stock replacements from Pelican Parts and it's like a new car. Shifts are much smoother. Only $180, well worth it and it took about an hour.
Quote:
To be honest I can't really tell from looking at the parts but any rubber parts on a car that's 14 years old and has 50k miles could use some new parts. I didn't want to put in semi solid mounts because I'm not planning on tracking the car any time soon. Just wanted like new feeling.
Question... I'm thinking about doing this. Two questions, actually:
1) Do you need a "low profile" floor jack or will a standard floor jack from Harbor Freight work?
2) How significantly different is the process between a C2, and a Turbo? '04 996 TT here.
Thanks!
To put some finishing touches on this thread, there are few things that can make sounds describrd. Each has to be looked at, or uf u do full bore approach, do all at once to fix sounds issue.
1. Lower control arms - known culprit, squeak or thud when going over bumps. You can inspect and see bushings tears. Fix is to replace control arms.
2. Upper control arms - known culprit, squeaks over bumps. Will be hard to inspect bushings as they are obstructed. There is process to inspect on cayenne section. If you replaced lower control arms, and sounds still present, replace the upper control arms. Plus read next point.
3. Upper shock mount bushings - known culprit in air suspension, clunking sound over bumps, especially low speed. These are rubber stops inside each shock. They are supposed to keep internals aligned, but if they get worn, internals of shock stary flopping around, hence clunking sound. Remedy is to replace said bushings. I have a diy from cayenne section on how to do this. Not hard, and if youre doingupper control arms, you have to remove air shocks, giving you perfect opportunity to to replace.
4. Sway bar bushings - not as common for squeaks. Easy to replace, but i would do thease aftervabove 3 are addressed. I have diy on sway bar bushing repair on here in cayenne section, i think.
5. Sway bar links - not as common for squeaks, easy to replace. If i reolace sway bar bushings, might as well do th ese too, cheap and need removal to change sway bushings.
After fixing my cayenne which has similar noises, thst users ovserve and repair, i would tackle these noises in shown order. Very doable as diy.
Quote:
1) I have a Craftsman low profile jack and it worked great. I think a standard height jack would fit but I would never get a jack from Harbor Freight. Their stuff is super low quality and I wouldn't trust it. You're working on a Porsche, don't risk your life or car.
2) From looking in the bay of a Turbo I think the process would be about the same. If you pop the hood and look you will be able to see the mounts and from their you can tell how much stuff you will need to remove. No matter what it is well worth the $200 and hour of time.
Quote:
I didn't feel right putting it under the oil pan. I saw a picture of a guy that did that and cracked their pan. My jack has the rubber puck which I like and I placed the jack under the bracket that runs up to the engine mount. I did one side at a time. If you lay under the car you will see it. I can take a picture this weekend but if you lay under the car you should be able to see where I'm talking about.
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6speedonline.com-vbulletin/1900x1267/img_0419_cc71d0ccbe8cd8970ddf9ef792d6c290bb1bfa0c.jpg
Quote:
Thanks, Acelucas, for your reply. I've got a quote to do these for the turbo at $590. 2 hours of labor at $132/hr, and then $326 for parts. I know at Pelican, I can get the mounts for under $200, and the hour just seems expensive, given the description that you and others have said of the task.
I'm not a motor-head in the least, and I don't have a serious supply of tools (I live in downtown San Francisco, and also a house in Marin, but only with a carport, not a garage). I used to wrench on my old '83 BMW R100 but just simple stuff -- oil, heads, spark-plugs, etc.
Regarding the Harbor Freight jack, I hear you. I know their stuff is pretty cheap but this is a jack that I'd use once or twice, tops. If I were wrenching on it regularly, I'd definitely get a more reputable jack, but the reviews of HF jacks aren't bad at all.
Thanks again!
Just because we are working on a Porsche doesn't mean we need to overpay for simple tools. A HF jack works as advertised, used it on plenty of high priced cars and trucks over the years
Now, I wouldn't trust HF for something like a torque wrench, but a jack is a jack.
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A jack is not just a jack. There are standards in place set by PALD. Most jacks, including HF jacks use a standard set back in 2005 which test the max load in the center of the saddle. Craftsman jacks are tested to 2009 PALD standards. The load is tested at 4 of the farthest points on the saddle. So if you set your jack perfectly on HF jack should work as advertised. If your vehicle is not dead center it will fail if you get near the max weight of the jack. My personal opinion is that I'd rather spend a little extra and have a better quality.
Quote:
Just for reference, here's a shot of the jack point we recommend for the rear - inboard suspension pick-up, rear sub frame. Yes, jacking up a car using the oil pan is not a great idea.
I like long-reach floor jacks - so convenient!
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.
