Porsche 996 MB Tiptronic Removal

Hello all! I have been working on my 2003 996 Carrera 2wd. I am doing some preventive maintenance and the IMS replacement. I pulled the engine / trans out since I hate working on tight spaces (have big hands). The engine out was easy but now I am having a bit of a challenge detaching the trans from the engine. I’ve already removed the starter and the bolts that hold the torque converter. But now I am a bit confused as to which bolts should I remove to release the transmission. The very few how tos for tiptronics focus on the zf, not on the one sourced by mercedes... I am attaching some pictures. The 16mm bolt at the top cannot be removed with a socket. The torx bolts can be easily removed but on the sides of the transmission I don’t have enough space to fit my torx bit and ratchet... I ordered a L-shaped torx tool but now I am second guessing if these are really the bolts to be removed... Could any help?! Thanks!!!

Hello guys...I am about to change my clutch,so I need some help...In the past I ve changed the clutch in my previous 996C2 and it was not difficult...However i do not know how to remove the central axle in order to remove the transmission...any ideas?Or any shop manual indicating the way?

Engine out! Wow! 16mm bolt blocked T45 bit does not fit!! It is a MB transmission!

Anybody?

So the bolts to be removed are the torx T45 ones. There are 8 of them and yes, on the side you will need a very short T45 bit or a L-shaped torx tool like the one in the picture... anyway, another good step!

Easy pleasy. I did a post on this over on rennlist 6 months ago. You will need to pull the upper passenger side stud from the block to remove the transaxle with the engine in the car. The center axle is just 3 15mm bolts, remove them, use a flat pry bar to push the driveshaft foward, once it clears the transaxle, you can lower it and pull it backwards out of the car (front is splined, so it slides right off)

A question, if you fo not mind: Is there a separate spacer/adapter between engine?

A quick run down from my rennlist post To do it with the engine in: You must have a tranny jack, and a way to support the engine. Off the top of my head: (i refer to everything as bolt head size, not actual bolt size) Remove rear sway bar. 4 bolts on mounting bracket, 2 on drop links Remove aluminum cross member. 2 15mm bolts Remove two angled beams attached to the main crossmember: 1 15mm bolt, 1 16mm bolt, 1 15mm nut hidden on top. Drop main crossmember. 16mm and 18mm wrench required. Pull out the bottom 2 bolts, and just loosen the top 2. Pull crossmember out. Remove 2 shifter cables at the tranny (passenger side) Remove electrical connector at front passenger side of tranny Disconnect battery Pull starter With a stud puller, remove the long tranny mount stud that the start mounts to. You will not get the tranny out without pulling this stud out. Remove 2 13mm bolts holding on the slave (for a 996TT, remove the 2 15mm bolts and 1 13mm bolt for the slave). Hang aside. Remove 6 CV bolts at the transaxle end on each side. Following the coolant lines around the transaxle, remove the various clips, etc so the lines can be moved later. You do not need to disconnect any lines. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the coolant line bracket (above the drivers side transaxle end CV joint). Remove the 3 10mm bolts from the plastic cover on the drivers side of the tranny, above the CV axle. You will need to pull the clutch fork pin out. 1 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt, and bracket from the transaxle. (this is done by feel, with your fingers in the side of the tranny. Going back together, if you drop any of the above, you get to pull the tranny to fish them out. There is a black cap that covers the access to the clutch fork pin. A flat pair of needle nose pliers can just barely grip the end and you can pull it out. Again, all done by feel. Thread in a long 6mm bolt into the clutch fork pin, and wiggle the clutch fork pin out. Support the tranny. Drop your front mounting plate. 4 short 15mm bolts (in body), and 2 long ones in the side of the tranny. For the 996TT, remove the 3 15mm bolts holding the driveshaft to the transaxle. Push the driveshaft forward, then pull down and remove from vehicle. (not applicable on GT2) With the tranny supported, now you can pull the 2 16mm nuts holding the front of the tranny to the body. Slowly lower the transaxle so it is at an angle. One the angle is close to clearing the driveshaft tunnel (you will obviously have to pull the tranny towards the front of the car to remove), support the engine safely. Remove the remaining 3 15mm nuts holding the tranny to the engine. with everything supported, rock the tranny towards the front of the car. With the proper angle, it will slide off. Now you are staring at the clutch. Replace clutch. Self explanatory. Use loctite on the flywheel bolts, and torque to 66ft/lbs. 17ft/lbs on the pressure plate bolts, no loctite. That was the easy part. Now the real fun begins. With the new clutch in place, place your shift fork in the arm of the release bearing. With a piece of tape, tape it so that it sits straight up. (place the tape over the arm, the up over the top of the clutch and flywheel. Keep it on as light as possible, as you will have to pull it out once the tranny starts to mate up, and the clutch fork is seated in the tranny. Push the tranny into place. Again, if you don't have the exact angle of the engine to tranny, it will not go on. It HAS to be perfect. Once the tranny is almost all the way on, with one finger in the tranny, guide the clutch fork into it's mount. Remove the tape. You will probably attempt this multiple times, as the fork will fall down, etc. Once everything is lined up, slide the tranny into place, and install your 3 15mm nuts to hold everything together. Slide the clutch fork pin into the tranny and arm. Install the black cap Install the small bracket onto the cap. Install the 10mm bolt to hold everything together (again, if you drop anything on these steps, they will end up in the bellhousing, and you will be pulling everything apart and starting over. This can be very frustrating, because you can't see anything while you are doing this, it is all done by feel. Once that is together, then installation is opposite of removal.

Quotes source post: 4839930

Quote: Hi there! Yes, that’s exactly right. There is an adaptor plate between the transaxle and the engine. I ended up removing it as well to do the IMS and RMS. If you are doing this the drive plate gets a bit stuck. Just gently pry it out. good luck!

THE TAPE, THE FORK, THE TAPE, THE FRIGGIN TAPE!!!!!! He is right, I just had a flashback of a nightmare

Thx! Just checking something found from the PET. This might be useful info in some other application.

Quotes source post: 2262834

Quote: Lol, yea it is a good time the first time you do it After a few dozen, it's cake The other option if you have 2 people and clearance, is to get the transaxle close, drop the fork into place, and then take a really long screwdriver, put it through the slave cylinder hole in the bellhousing, and pinch the fork against the clutch assembly using the screwdriver to hold it in place while the other guy slides the transaxle on.

Awesome write up...thank you...

I am having my rear main seal replaced and clutch done at Porsche. The dealer told me they go by book to drop both the engine and transmission. Sounds crazy to me...they should just drop the transmisison like the instructions above with a way to secure engine.

Quotes source post: 2262882

Quote: I am sure they are not dropping the engine, but you are still getting charged for it, because Porsche says you can't remove the transaxle with the engine in the car. It is still a sizable job though, dropping the entire engine isn't much slower, but is definitely a heck of a lot messier! Coolant goes EVERYWHERE.

Quotes source post: 2262893

Quote: Thank god i have Easycare. I am doing the clutch while its out ...saves me labor.

Quotes source post: 2262893

Quote: I don't think it is much slower (if any), to someone very experienced in pulling engines. Same would go with the coolant mess. Some strategically placed catch cans, and some hose pinch off pliers virtually eliminates the mess for the most part, as well as the tremendous strain on the rear engine mounts without proper suport. They're not made to suport the engine weight with nothing else helping.

Quotes source post: 2263393

Quote: Lol, I was trying to be nice to those that choose to do the engine out method. I can do a clutch job in under 3 hours in a 996TT without dropping the motor (2:45 is my record in fact, book time is 17 hours). I would like to see anyone do it that fast by dropping the motor and doing it on the table, lol. Also, no on in their right mind would let the motor hang from the rear 2 motor mounts without supporting the other end of the motor. I can drop a motor fast, but I can't drop the motor, do the clutch, and reinstall the motor in under 3 hours.

Quotes source post: 2263660

Quote: Haha, gotcha. No worries. That is certainly no small feat. It seems that it can be tempting just to get that "little" bit of extra drop by leaving it on the mounts, and that was by no means directed towards you, just anyone lowering down the other end, in general. There certainly are things on these cars that there is an "art" to.

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Quote: What a pity you are not close to Greece,so to change clutch and flywheel to you...I will start it later today and hope to have it ready for the weekend...However i will change intercoolers as well...

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Quote: Is this the same for a 2007 gt3rs

Have to replace clutch disc on my 2007 GT3RS Have taken some shot's and would dearly like to know what these parts are and if/how they are removed.

more images

and again

Last set

QMQ search around for a copy of the factory service manual it should walk you right through this process bolt by bolt essentially, but it should not be dramatically different then this write up except for no front drivetrain.

How can i get my hands on such manual? any pointers.

Quotes source post: 3035409

Quote: i would search the gt3 forum, look on ebay they are usually on there and on rennlist ill dig around see if i can find one.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-softcopy.html this might contain the gt3 info not sure http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm download em for yourself heres some more http://rapidshare.com/#!linklist|MPDMYL

all manuals seam to be for 996, but is there any change in the 996 and 997?

Doing a little grave digging here..... Have to do a clutch on a 997.2 turbo and I'm wondering if these instructions can be used. I understand they are completely different engines but wondering if this can at least be used as a "guide". If not does anybody has link to instructions.... writeup... video... anything? Tried looking for a shop manual online and ebay and couldn't find one. Thanks in advance!!

Get an engine support bar. Sir p254 for when you remove the trans. http://www.autotoolworld.com/Sir-Too..._p_205929.html Or here https://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usa...iABEgLn2PD_BwE

Quotes source post: 4700913

Quote: I have the trans out but it was a PITA. Everything was super straight forward until I got to the clutch fork pin. That by theory was easy but the execution (getting your tools in that little space) really sucked. Other problem I ran into was the car height on my lift compared to how high my trans jack could reach. I have a lift but couldn't lift the car too high or else my trans jack couldn't reach the car. At maximum reach of the trans jack the car was not high enough to get the trans out when I lowered the jack. make a long story short what I need to do is get the engine support bar like you mentioned. Then I could remove my super big jack stands from the equation. Once I have that then I'm going to buy a lifting table, remove the wheels from my trans lack and racket strap it to the top of the table. This will allow me plenty of adjustability in height while the bar will support the engine. I want this flexibility because I have a feeling I'm going to be in for a real treat while trying to put the clutch fork pin back in BTW.... Chatam is in my backyard. You feel like renting me your engine support bar??

Put it back in yet?

Quotes source post: 4702983

Quote: Yup.... check my other thread

It's a FN nightmare, esp w/o a lift. Save yourself a headache and a lot of time and drop the motor is my advice for anyone reading this. The entire process is much cleaner, better, and you can pin your lines while you're at it. Oh, did I mention It's a FN nightmare, esp w/o a lift?