CS Battery specs ?

Does anyone know the battery group number & cold crank amps for the CS battery ? Can't find them in the owner's book. See the November 07 issue of Consumer Reports for evaluations of batteries & tires . Worth a read.

Did you take a look at your battery ? Mine has the most important specs printed on it: 80A/hr; 380 Cranking Amps. This means, that fully charged it should be able to deliver, for example, 10A for 8 hours, and it should provide 380A for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F before the voltage falls to 7.20 V.

FWIW there are multiple specs for cranking amps. Hot cranking amps (abbreviated HCA) are measured at 80 degrees F, plain old cranking amps (abbreviated CA) are measured at 32 degrees F, and cold cranking amps (CCA) are measured at 0 degrees F. Something to check when looking at car batteries. Car battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

And you should be aware of this from your Owner's Manual: " It is not possible to use the details on the battery case to determine a comparable battery that meets all the specific requirements of Porsche . Use only a battery that meets the specific requirements of your vehicle as a replacement. We recommend that you use an Orignal Porsche battery."

I forgot to mention in my previous post that Moll, probably the best manufacturer for vehicle batteries in Germany, always - and only - indicates CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), even though they don't specifically label it as such. German Porsche-related sites/clubs are full of lengthy and controversial comments on this issue (primarily due to the high unit price in Germany). Many drivers had great results using good batteries from other manufacturers and saved over 100 Euro. I agree with Santa Fe's stance and would stick with the recommendation in the Porsche manual. You can't go wrong: (1) You avoid potential warranty issues, and (2) Moll batteries have been permanently rated extraordinarily high in various tests and Moll has just received for the 5th time the Porsche Supplier Award.

So, I'm on my second OEM Moll battery . And I use a Battery Tender ™ when not driving the car. But now the CS won't crank if it has been sitting more than a few days, it will charge (on a bonified charger) and then crank, it will crank if I've driven it a while. Sitting on the Tender won't keep enough charge to allow it to crank. Therefore I checked the batteries cells and low and behold 5 of 6 are max, 1 of 6 is dead dead dead. After recharge, no improvement. So here is the question: Will an aftermarket 94R profile battery with more CCA than the stock and more reserve hurt? Size is exactly the same. But weight- it is 47.4 lbs. Does anyone know how heavy the OEM battery is?

Many of us (myself included), have gone with other brands once our original batteries have expired. So far I know of zero issues with doing that. Walmat DuraMaxx 94R Interstate MTP-91 with vent kit These are the two batteries that are direct drop in fitments for a Cayman S . The base Cayman comes with a smaller capacity battery and I'm not sure which aftermarket battery will fit.

My OEM weighed about 50 lbs. I went with the Wallyworld replacement.

Thanks all. I'm about to go get a Duralast 94R. I've used them on my Volvo w/o problems. 790 CCA and has a vent already. The dimensions are identical to the Moll. As long as the hold down tabs are wide enough should be okay. Addendum: I didn't end up with this battery , yet, because it didn't have a plug for the unused vent hole. They'll have to "check" to see if they can pull one out of another battery that does come with plugs to give me. But in the mean time, another question. There is also an identical sized AGM battery , similar specs but +$30 above the lead-acid. Anyone have an opinion on moving up a bit to the Duralast AGM battery ? At this price point $30 seems like a no brainer. I wondered of a Battery Tender Plus™ would work with AGM batteries and this is off the website: 'RECHARGING AGM BATTERIES : The primary difference between these 2 chargers is that the Battery Tender  Plus was specifically designed to accommodate the charging requirements of the new, Absorbed Glass Matte ( AGM ) style batteries. To achieve that goal, it was necessary to modify the absorption charge mode in the following way. The Battery Tender  switches to float mode when the charge current drops to 0.5 amps. The Battery Tender  Plus switches to float mode when the charge current drops to 0.1 amps. The result is that for an extended period of time, not to exceed 6 hours, the Battery Tender Plus output voltage will be held at a constant voltage that is significantly higher than the float voltage." So I also looked into the difference between AGM and Gel batteries (like the Optima). I found a really nice link that discusses the issue. http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/gel-vs-agm.html

Sometimes the cap is located on the positive tab shield of the battery , you have to snap it off to use.

Thanks for the hint. Unfortunately the Duralast doesn't come with a cover like that. I'm sure it won't be a problem though. They can pull one out of another battery there. Hopefully the next guy knows what to look for. And the cycle continues... Cheers, :cheers:

When the time comes, I plan to pop the extra $30 for the Duralast AGM battery - great technology and good warranty.

Hi guys! I'm new here and am considered a Newbie. lol. After a long road trip I pulled into my garage. I hooked up my battery tender for next few months and was horrified later when the car wouldn't start. The tender didn't really keep the battery in top shape. I threw a charge on the battery and now have rotten eggs! I'm just wondering if the AGM battery would be a good fit for me since I don't drive the CS that much. I need a battery that can take a trickle charge and remain in top shape. Any help or ideas. Thanks.

I have a 2012 CS that I took delivery of on 11-11-11. I went out a couple of weeks ago to crank mine after only sitting for seven days. Dead, dead, dead, and it took quite a bit of effort to jump. I have other cars. One that may sit for three weeks at a time and starts right up. I would love to know why the battery in a Porsche, based on what i read on this site and others, runs down so quickly. I will say that Porsche replaced the battery, without me asking, even though they could not prove it was bad. BTW - I love this thing. Unbelievable.:dance:

Cheers, I know battery issues ( or any issue w a new car) is frustrating but glad to know you enjoy the car. hopefully it was just a bad battery . The car perfers longer drives ( which help to recharge the battery .) I have gone longer than three weeks w/o charging the battery and was able to start but given whe I've read here over the years, if you aren't going to be driving the thing for a while it is best to put it on a battery tender .

So I ended up with the Duralast H7- AGM . ehati: As many have told you I'm sure Porsche 's drain batteries. It just is. Even when in the lowest possible power down mode. Don't expect the car to behave like any other in any circumstance. The car loves to be driven and if it is, the battery drain shouldn't be a problem. Despite what other threads have suggested, I think the stock battery is not good. My original equipment battery died within months and was replaced under warranty. This Moll OEM battery did last 5 years before a cell died. From what I hear that isn't bad, but compared to my other cars it is premature. I have had to charge it a few times (note that the Battery Tender original or Plus is NOT a charger for deeply discharged batteries). I hope the AGM battery is better, but as I mentioned above don't confuse it with gel batteries which are the ones supposed to have the longest shelf life. I suspect that the constant drain from the car will get them too, but maybe someone with a gel battery can speak up.

snipped from AtBatt.com What are the differences between AGM sealed lead acid batteries and Gel Cell Batteries? Both types of batteries are sealed, valve regulated batteries allowing them to be used in any position. The difference lies in the way the electrolyte is immobilized. In case of AGM (absorbed glass mat), the newer of the two technologies, the electrolyte is absorbed by the glass fiber separator who acts like a sponge. In a gel-type battery the liquid electrolyte turns into a gel right after the battery is filled. Gel batteries use a different type of separators which are not absorbent. Because of the design, gel cell batteries don't offer the same power capacity as do the same physical size AGM battery . For example, an AGM battery that is 12V 100AH, whereas, for example, a gel cell battery in the same size case would only be rated at 84AH.However, the Gel Cell excels in slow discharge rates and slightly higher operating temperatures. The internal design is otherwise similar.

Okay, I just returned from the store with my new Duralast H7 AGM battery . Online it says must be vented. "Notes: ***800 cold cranking Amps***. ->3 year free replacement<- Battery gasses need to be vented to outside." Yet the salesperson said it isn't necessary because, I asked for a vent kit he said he didn't have one for that battery . The vent hole is located on the negative side of the battery , which means for my CS I have to plug it and use the hole that is plugged for the vent. A side note: The salesperson said that the battery was fully charged. Reality: 75% charge was on the new battery . Measured at 12.4V. Auto-zone shows that this battery and one other are the recommended swap for the OEM. Also the Moll in their system shows up as a 780 cold crank amp battery . Now the fun part..... I get to drive my awesome Porsche again!

That plug you show on the positive side is a vent. Just take the plug out and move it to the other side and the battery will vent from the positive side. Yea, 800 CCA and 1000 at 30 degrees. So far mine is doing well. Good luck

>> Der Schatten and JustinCase Was the Duralast H7 AGM a perfect fit in the CS? Was it wider then the OEM? thanks!

Also, could I use my official Porsche trickle charger on this battery , or no?

The Duralast battery fits perfectly. It was not longer by any significant amount if at all. Most importantly it was not wider or taller! I hooked up my Battery Tender Plus the same as the OEM battery . I use the Battery Tender adapter that screws to the battery terminal cables and not the clips. I have not used the Porsche trickle charger and I don't know from it's spec whether is is good for an AGM battery . Just make sure that you have the open vent hole oriented correctly and have the unused vent hole plugged. Some batteries come with plugs, mine didn't and the sales person took a plug off another battery for me. I have had absolutely no problems with this battery so far. Let me know if you need a picture. Good luck.

Back on topic. I have a 2006 CS and my Moll battery just recently died. I'm searching for a replacement battery, probably another Moll, but i'm unsure which one to choose. My current Moll battery isn't Porsche tagged so it may not be the original battery (i bought my CS second hand) and it's a 71ah 590ah. I now saw this topic and got puzzled to see the op says his oem battery was a 80ah 380ah... Also, i see there is another Moll battery with 75ah 660ah, with the same size of the 71ah 590ah except for height because it's a 190mm (not 175mm like the 71ah), but from what i gathered here 190mm will be fine. So, what are the specs of the original battery? Should i got with the 75ah battery (benefits?) or get the 71ah like the one i currently have? Will the 190mm height battery be fine? Thanks in advance :cheers:

Cayman -S : I think this thread still pretty much hits the high points of using an aftermarket battery that will approximate the Porsche specs. Now 1 year later, my battery is still going strong. I have had NO issues. Still use the Battery Tender Plus when sitting for a while, but the car has become my daily driver now so it is only standing when I travel. Hope you work this out. Personally, no more Moll batteries for me.

Re orsche battery caps Someone recently pointed out that the Porsche batteries have a sticker covering the caps and if it is removed you can access the cells to add distilled water. My battery is 2.5 years old and has recently been cranking slow but after I added the water and drove it a bit it is now cranking great. Thanks to however put that on, maybe mine will last beyond the 3 year average I read about.

I had a perfect fit. My battery came with the plug but it was on the wrong side, all I did was switch them. I really think I've made the right choice with this battery because I have not put it on any trickle charge yet. My CS will sit in the garage for two weeks and start right up with not problems at all. I recommend the same battery that I bought as a replacement any day.:cheers:

Thank you guys. I'm considering another Moll battery because from what i've seen the price is about the same has other comparable battery 's ( Bosch for instance), and has had great reviews. Also, i'm not in the US, so some of the aftermarket choices some people on this forum have made are out of the question. I would still like if someone could answer these. 1 - What are the specs of the original battery ? 2 - Should i go with the 75ah battery (benefits?) or get the 71ah like the one i currently have? (in case i get a Moll) 3 - Will a 190mm height battery be fine?

Not being US would be a problem with my solution. Good hunting.

Well folks, The battery lasted three years and 3 weeks. Just over the 3 yr. warranty. These are now $194.99 at Autozone. I think I'll try the limited 5 yr warranty Duralast this time. CCA = 790 called the "Gold" if it fits.