12 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHExhaust bolt breakage!!!
Reported or suspected cause
very common
Reported cause
No successful repair reported for this finding.
1
Identified cause
0
Suspected cause
0
Reported fixes
Read evidence and context
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Leading evidence: 'very common' (1 discussions report identifying this cause; no attributable repair resolution). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'very common' (1 discussions; 1 report identifying it and 0 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Install set of aftermarket headers' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I just installed a set of aftermarket headers, so I can confirm it's easier.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
When this happened to me, I used a torch to heat the stud and tapped it out.
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Suggestion
You could drill them out and replace the studs with nuts and bolts.
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12 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
Planet-9: 1 discussions
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I am removing the exhaust on my 07
Cayman
and three of the six bolts just past the cats have broken. They are pressed in studs so am I in as much trouble as I am imagining to get them out (especially without a lift)?
You could drill them out and replace the studs with nuts and bolts. Or buy a set of headers that accomplishes the same thing.
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Since the studs are pressed in, you'll just need to press them out. This can be done in situ using a C- clamp and a properly sized socket. Place the socket over the head of the broken stud, and clamp down on it with the head of the C- clamp. As you tighten the movable head against the tail of the broken stud, it will back out of the flange into the cavity of the socket.
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You can bang, you can hammer and just maybe one will pop. An hour of this and wondering how much shock things can take...out came the little propane torch. Heat those buggers reasonably hot and they tap right out...at least on my 06 100k CS they did. Replace with nice nuts/bolts, perhaps a little hi-temp anti-seize (cu based I believe) and vroom! I could not contort well enough to C clamp em but certainly a good suggestion barring heat.
Ah, yes, the old "blue wrench" is often helpful to persuade stubborn fasteners to relax their grip. Please be aware that penetrating oil is quite flammable (as are many of the surrounding bits), so proceed with caution if you choose to employ this tool/method. You might be better off removing the manifolds and taking them to the bench for more invasive"surgery".
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When this happened to me, I used a torch to heat the stud and tapped it out. It took some good hard hits with the hammer to get them to budge, but they popped out eventually.
I tried to do the C-clamp method, but couldn't maneuver the C-clamp in the tight space. In hindsight, it would have been easier to just remove the headers from the car and use the c-clamps off the car. I just installed a set of aftermarket headers, so I can confirm it's easier. The headers basically just fall right out once you unbolt them from the engine. It's also safer than banging away at them. I worried I could have damaged my cats from all the impacts. Just don't break the header bolts in the head, or else you'll be in even more trouble.
A recommendation if I may: Remove the remaining bolts and replace with titanium bolts, washer and nuts. They'll never rust and you'll never have a problem with removal in the future. Torque to same values as the original steel bolts.
I removed all 6 bolts (4 broken) when installing an aftermarket exhaust by using PBblaster and a torch. Replaced all 6 with titanium bolts and nuts. After a year on the car, you'd think they were still brand new.
I've lived in Vermont over 40 years - more than a few busted knuckles from broken bolts...
Heat around the outside of the bolt with either propane or map gas. Hot, not glowing red. Spray
PB blaster
on it - it'll smoke, keep spraying...
Go in the house - have a beer (give it some time to penetrate).
Come back out, beat, wrench, curse at it - the situations vary.
Heat it up, spray it down, have a beer.
Give it one more try... Heat and spray.
Decide if it's time to just let the
PB Blaster
work overnight, or come back out after beer 3...
I’ve had three bolts shear off of one 987 and four on another. It proven to be very common.
The first time I heated and hammered as described by posts above and was successful after a couple of hours.
The second car was more stubborn and after no success heating and pounding on the bolts I removed the headers from the engine block. The bolts attaching the headers to the block are easy to access from below and came out easily on my 9 year old (at the time)
Cayman
. It was fairly easy to punch out the broken bolt/studs when I could take the header to the workbench and deliver some solid accurate blows. It was so easy in fact that if I ever have to do this on another car, that’s the route I’ll take if the bolts don’t come out after a few minutes.
Hopefully I won’t have to do this again on the cars I own as I used stainless steel hardware for reinstallation.
