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YOUR RESEARCHI want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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Check amps
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Suggestion · Original poster
I need to check the amps on the open slots that work only when the engine is on.
I want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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Leading evidence: 'Check amps' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check amps' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion · Original poster
So nice to see someone else who uses pretty (and strong) connections.
I want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
Use wire ties
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Suggestion
Put a Female Crimp Connector onto another wire, (I'd go with 14Ga) and string this through to the FuseBox (using Wire Ties to keep it secure, out of the way) and attach it to the Male Spade from the FuseTap.
I want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
Use wire ties
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
1
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0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
Put a Female Crimp Connector onto another wire, (I'd go with 14Ga) and string this through to the FuseBox (using Wire Ties to keep it secure, out of the way) and attach it to the Male Spade from the FuseTap.
I want to put 2nd power port (lighter) in. - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners
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I would like to put a new 12V power port in the empty spot to the left of the stereo. I know I can get a non-smoker's part, but how/where would it be connected that is safe and turns off when the car is off? Any ideas?
TIA!
John,
If it were me, I'd run it straight to the FuseBox. RadioShack sells a Product called a Blade-Type Fuse Tap - Part# 270-1204 - Pack of 4 under $2 - see:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102780&cp
. These are Brass pieces which fit under the Blades of a standard Automotive Fuse. You insert the Fuse into the Fuse Tap (Positive
+
side) and then insert the Fuse into the Fusebox. This leaves an exposed Male Blade to which you can insert a Female Connector.
Install the Lighter Socket as you describe and ground one side by splicing into any Brown Wire. Put a Female Crimp Connector onto another wire, (I'd go with 14Ga) and string this through to the FuseBox (using Wire Ties to keep it secure, out of the way) and attach it to the Male Spade from the FuseTap.
On the 2000 MY, Fuse #
D4
is unused and so you could add a 15Amp Fuse there to draw
Fused
Power for the Lighter Socket. 15 Amp is the Rating for the existing Lighter Fuse, so you'd be OK. Very Easy install. Good Luck!...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Hi,
While we're on the Subject of making Electrical Hacks to the Boxster I think it's important to pass on some information I learned when doing electrical work on my and several friends Lotus throughout the years. In Lotus Case, they used extremely complex electrical systems, much more so than were required -
Lucas, King of Darkness
and all that. If you didn't learn to make proper connections, you could be hunting Gremlins for years. I hate doing a Job twice because some connection failed, so I always use this method and have never had a connection fail, even after years of use.
When making splices into the Factory Harness, avoid the Crimp-On type Splice Connectors. In addition to being notorious for causing Short Circuits (which in the Boxster can lead to replacing some VERY Spendy electronic components), they are generally very poorly made, do not make strong connections, often causing the Wire to split, will corrode easily, or otherwise give poor service through the years.
See my attachment for the Proper Method to make Solid, Strong and Long-Lasting Electrical Splices and Connections. This method is certainly not quite as easy as the $0.99 Crimp Splicers, but will give better, stronger, more Long-Lasting results with significantly fewer Failures and Frustrations. Hope this helps...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Aaahhhhh. So nice to see someone else who uses pretty (and strong) connections.
Thanks for the info. I'm most likely going to use one of the additional fuse slots to keep from messing with other systems. I need to check the amps on the open slots that work only when the engine is on. If none of the empty slots can handle the amps, what is the best line to splice into?
John,
What slots are you talking about? The 2000 MY indicates unused fuses in location
D4
,
E9
, and
E10
in the Fuse Panel. There will be a few more depending upon your Option pkg.
Unfortunately, each of these is indicated by the Wiring Schematic to be supplied directly by Battery Power, independent of the Ignition Switch (You will want to confirm this with a Multi-meter as innacuracies in Wiring Diagrams are often common). This means that you'll need to tap into another fused circuit (using something like the Blade Taps I described) which is supplied with power only when the Ignition Switch is in the
Park
,
Run
, or
Start
positions. Again, according to the Schematics, there are very few of these.
One possibility would be Fuse #
A8
, reserved for License Plate Lights (Canadian Models only) and so s/b unused. Another is Fuse #
C5
(unused in 2000) and
C6
which is your Wipers/Washers (which don't run often) and are Ignition Switch dependent in the
Run
or
Start
positions - it is already rated at 25Amps.
For
Ground
, to avoid splicing into the existing Harness, I would take my Ground Wire and crimp a 'O' Ring style connector on it and attach it at Ground Point
GP4
which is Under the Dash, close to the Center Console on the Driver's side - this is also the Ground Point for the existing Cigarette Lighter. Hope this helps...
Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
Any particular reason you're going for switched power? Only reason I ask is that the factory socket is non-switched... you could always just piggy-back off that and therefore the fuse panel would match the use. Or do you need more amps than the single socket rating?
I bought my wife a Garmin "Nuvi" navigator for Christmas and I want it to turn off every time you get out of the car. We have to unplug it every time right now and it is going to wear the plug and lighter out and it's a risk of leaving it plugged in on accident.
Sorry for the delay Jim. I have a deadline I'm trying to meet at work.
Anyway, I'm thinkng about the seat heater or possibly the headlight washer circuit since I don't have either. I will definitely ground it directly rather than through another circuit.
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