Rough running

Hi The car has been stood for a few weeks and now will not start when it does erratic idle no engine power and cuts out. I have tried another battery cleaned maf and throttle body but still the same have these two fault codes is there a procedure to check power to throttle body as there is no movement throttle reset does nothing. Thanks

I am a new owner of a 2006 v8V manual shift. 17,400 miles on it when I bought it. About 17,800 on it now. I test drove the car and had no issues. I did not have a PPI. The car was bought out of an estate and had not been driven much. The prior owner bought it, drove it 200 miles, and passed away. So, his family was selling the car, but had not driven it much over the last year. Also, I am told the first owner went to jail for fraud and the car was impounded for 4 years in its early life. The problem---intermittent CEL and Emissions warning. The first day after I bought it, I drove about 30 minutes on the freeway to a meeting. No issues. On the way back, when I was almost home and stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the check emissions dialog box came up, the amber light went on, and it went into limp mode. I had never heard of limp mode, so it scared the heck out of me. I got the car home and researched on the internet. Learned about the T1/T2 reset. Cleared the code and got the amber light to go off. Car ran fine. As I drove the car more frequently, I would occasionally hear/feel a "pop", the engine would start running a little rough, and the emissions warning and light would come on. I would do the T1/T2 reset thing and be okay. Then, it got to a point where it would not go away for long. So, I took it to my Indy. He ran a scan and got the following codes: PO121 P1579 P2104 P2106 P2111 P2135 He cleared the codes and the car ran fine. I drove the car for quite a while hoping the condition would happen again so he could diagnose it, but it did not return. I have been driving the car for a couple of weeks, and all of the sudden, it's back. Except now sometimes the amber light goes to RED and the car goes into fail safe mode. I can clear it, but it come back pretty quickly. Maintenance History: A review of the repair records reveals that this has been limp mode/CEL malady has been taking place since at least April 2018 at 13,137 miles (Car is now at approximately 17,800 miles). My guess is that the prior efforts did not address the REAL problem. The maintenance history prior to me is as follows: - 2023-01-27 17,087 mi. - Spare key stopped working - **Check engine light came on and limp mode.** - **Added stabilant 22 to throttle body and throttle pedal connectors. ** - **Cleared codes, drove 61 miles. ** - **Working properly**. - Perform 1/3 year service. - Changed oil - Changed brake fluid. - replaced FOB battery. - $2,607.71 Total - 2022-07-20. 17,033 mi - Inspection-passed. - 2021-08-09 - Paint and clear guard front bumper. - 2019-11-04 16,630 mi. - **CEL is on and the engine will not exceed 2K rpm. ** - **Scanned faults:** - **P2135** - **P2106** - **Found baggy connection at throttle pedal** - **Corrected throttle pedal connections.** - **Performed test drive and no faults present. ** - Installed thermostat. - Installed coolant. - 2019--06-23 - Replaced battery. - 2019-06-13 - Oil Filter, sump plug, and seal. - Total $65.16 - **2018-09-06. 14,404 mi.** - **Engine is staying in limp mode even after reset. ** - **Scanned fault codes. Throttle communication faults present. [DOES NOT SAY WHAT THEY ARE]** - **Installed Spanish Oak Module.** - **"Checked throttle body and throttle pedal wiring. Ran complete wire overlays from the throttle body and throttle pedal to the engine control module. Condition still present. Contact AM aftersales. ** - **"Determined MOST LIKELY [not sure] Body Module or CEM was replaced. Per Fault tracing and AM Aftersales Technician Recommendation. Replaced the Engine Control Module [Does he mean Spanish Oak Module???]. Programmed to vehicle. Road tested 30 plus miles. Fault Codes did not return. ** - 2018-08-15 - XPEL applied to hood, mirrors, bumper, fender, lights - 2018-07-23 13,619 mi. - New tires. - Front 34 - Rear 36 - 2018-05-18. 13,148 mi. - **Vehicle runs rough and CEL is on and it is not accelerating.** - **Check engine light was on and limp mode. ** - **Reprogram throttle body/PCM** - **GDI service** - **Replace throttle pedal position sensor** - **GDI Kit.** - **Throttle Body** - **Throttle Pedal & Sensor** - **Body Control Module. ** - **Replace throttle pedal position sensor** - **Program vehicle with dealer programming** - **Reprogram Throttle body/PCM** - **GDI service.** - **Oil change** - **Parts $4418.91** - **Labor 754.00** - **Total $6,291.79** - **Recommendations:** - Rear brakes minimum specs 10% and require replacement - **Replace throttle body and reprogramming** - 2 front tires 235-40-19 Bridgestones - **2018-04-21. 13,137 mi.** - **Vehicle shuts off randomly** - **Diagnose ECU** - **"When provided an estimate to replace suspect ECU, customer declined further repairs."** - **$1250.00 to give a diagnosis!** Thoughts: I have ordered a Foxwell NT530 to try to clear the codes and monitor what is going on. I have watched several Bamford Rose videos on YouTube and he says 9 out of 10 times the issue is the Lambda sensor. Others indicate that given the car's age it could be one or more bad coil packs/spark plugs. I feel like all of the prior work did not address the real issue and was probably unnecessary. I want to avoid wasting money and fix whatever is the real problem. One last thing, the clutch was replaced with a new factory clutch relatively because a guy who did not know how to drive the car burned up the original clutch in transport. A long story not worth telling here. So, I would be very grateful for the advice/input of this community. I love the car and am hoping for a positive experience. Off to a bit of a rocky start... The help will be genuinely appreciated!

You could pull the plug to the throttle body and check voltage , i don't think you can check voltage to the throttle position sensor without a durametric or factory scan tool , it sounds like the MAF is dead , I'd see if your scan tool can look @ live data and see what the MAF is reading when it's trying to stay running

Re-posting the maintenance history with hopefully better formatting: 2023-01-27 17,087 mi. - Spare key stopped working - **Check engine light came on and limp mode.** - **Added stabilant 22 to throttle body and throttle pedal connectors. ** - **Cleared codes, drove 61 miles. ** - **Working properly**. - Perform 1/3 year service. - Changed oil - Changed brake fluid. - replaced FOB battery. - $2,607.71 Total 2022-07-20. 17,033 mi - Inspection 2021-08-09 - Paint and clear guard front bumper. 2019-11-04 16,630 mi. - **CEL is on and the engine will not exceed 2K rpm. ** - **Scanned faults:** - **P2135** - **P2106** - **Found baggy connection at throttle pedal** - **Corrected throttle pedal connections.** - **Performed test drive and no faults present. ** - Installed thermostat. - Installed coolant. 2019--06-23 - Replaced battery. 2019-06-13 - Oil Filter, sump plug, and seal. - Total $65.16 **2018-09-06. 14,404 mi.** - **Engine is staying in limp mode even after reset. ** - **Scanned fault codes. Throttle communication faults present. [DOES NOT SAY WHAT THEY ARE]** - **Installed Spanish Oak M****odule.** - **"Checked throttle body and throttle pedal wiring. Ran complete wire overlays from the throttle body and throttle pedal to the engine control module. Condition still present. Contact AM aftersales. ** - **"Determined MOST LIKELY [not sure] Body Module or CEM was replaced. Per Fault tracing and AM Aftersales Technician Recommendation. Replaced the Engine Control Module [Does he mean Spanish Oak Module???]. Programmed to vehicle. Road tested 30 plus miles. Fault Codes did not return. ** 2018-08-15 - XPEL applied to hood, mirrors, bumper, fender, lights 2018-07-23 13,619 mi. - New tires. - Front 34 - Rear 36 2018-05-18. 13,148 mi. - **Vehicle runs rough and CEL is on and it is not accelerating.** - **Check engine light was on and limp mode. ** - **Reprogram throttle body/PCM** - **GDI service** - **Replace throttle pedal position sensor** - **GDI Kit.** - **Throttle Body** - **Throttle Pedal & Sensor** - **Body Control Module. ** - **Replace throttle pedal position sensor** - **Program vehicle with dealer programming** - **Reprogram Throttle body/PCM** - **GDI service.** - **Oil change** - **Parts $4418.91** - **Labor 754.00** - **Total $6,291.79** - **Recommendations:** - Rear brakes minimum specs 10% and require replacement - **Replace throttle body and reprogramming** - 2 front tires 235-40-19 Bridgestones **2018-04-21. 13,137 mi.** - **Vehicle shuts off randomly** - **Diagnose ECU** - **"When provided an estimate to replace suspect ECU, customer declined further repairs."** - **$1250.00 to give a diagnosis!**

I’ve had one limp mode alert with my 4.7 which turned out to be a bad throttle body. The electronics can screw up the butterfly operation, new units can also be faulty right out of the box. Looks like some investigation in that regard has already been done for you. Where are you located? You could use a recommendation for a good Aston mechanic.

I am in Dallas, Texas. Again, all constructive input is welcome! Thanks

I have a couple thoughts they may be bad but it’s a start. Replace the battery, the O2 sensors, plugs and probably the coil packs. Also see if you are need to have the throttle controller replaced. I don’t know the correct name but it was a factory recall. Also change all the fluids. Also look for dry rot of hoses. before you have a stroke on the costs go online to all the sites for places to buy the stuff you need much cheaper. Example Redline MT-LV transmission oil is 1/3 the cost of the recommended Castrol. NKG O2 sensors are OEM so look around you will find them cheaper. Sites like this will help you a ton. Just some thoughts.

Thank you, Argus. I would be grateful if you and others would suggest sites I should visit to buy parts. What vendors do you like? Thanks again.

Scuderia Parts, Aston Bits, and Red Pants are the major Aston Martin discounters online.

Check out Pistonheads for their Aston Martin Alternative Parts sticky at the top of AM forum.

To all who replied, thank you!

The idea of replacing the battery; seconded. Many high performance vehicles, particularly Gaydon Astons, thrash the poor battery and the electronics have zero tolerance to low voltage. Forum members frequently post tails of cars throwing the strangest codes in the oddest modules which are all solved with new battery. This may not be your specific problem, but it will prevent the car from throwing other odd codes that might distract from finding the real culprit. I followed the sage advice from this forum and bought a high quality battery float charger and the car is plugged in as soon as it reaches my garage. I suggest you do likewise after the battery change. If you want to do the battery swap, look at the Redpants instructions. It will be your introduction to some of the odd design decisions made by AM to annoy mechanics! Could they just have made the clamp half an inch shorter? Philip

Thank you, Phil, will do!

Agree with not wasting $$ My thought, check the Battery. I've replaced mine every 3 years if it shows the slightest weakness. The last time it was a free replacement with the battery warranty at Sams. Get the Foxwell and learn how to use it. Mine has been a great tool. And consider replacing the coils if there is any indication you have a bad one.

Thanks. I have a Foxwell, but I don’t really know how to use it. What is a good resource to learn how to use the Foxwell? For example, I see it provides all kinds of data, but I don’t know what the data should be so I don’t know how to interpret it. I just watched the Redpants video on battery replacement. I also went to the Redpants store to maybe buy a battery and there were none in stock. They seemed very expensive. Is the battery typically $500-700?

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Quote: The batteries are more expensive than average cars bc it’s almost twice the size of the average one. I forgot where I bought mine but it was around $250-300 Edwin

I think I paid around $200-235 for my last battery. If you haven't had it tested take it out and get it done. There are places that will do it free. If I were you, and did not know the history of the battery, I'd probably replace it as good preventative maintenance. As for the foxwell, don't be afraid of it. I was lucky enough to find a couple of Youtube vids to help.

I really appreciate all the help. On the Foxwell, I use it to clear the codes, but I need to learn all the other uses—particularly the live data and what I can learn from it. I will search YouTube, but I would appreciate input from anyone who is proficient with it—-what I should be looking for, what the data should be, what it means if the figures are high or low. It’s a lot! Thanks

On battery replacement I've used 2 sources for convenience. Duracell brand at Sam's club and also from a store chain Batteries plus, which also has almost and light bulb and or batteries for anything you could imagine. $200-$250 range.

There is a Batteries Plus near me with prices right in line with what you said. Great find! Thanks!

Thanks for the advice, I will keep it in my mind. Spoiler Thanks for the advice, I will keep it in my mind. My brother also has one and he loves that car. Gamers and casino enthusiasts! If you're navigating the vast realm of online casinos in Canada and have Gigadat as your preferred payment method, let me share a gem of a resource with you read this on BestCasinoPlay. In the quest for the best online casinos that accept Gigadat, their reviews are an absolute game-changer. With thorough evaluations and reliable information, they've got the inside scoop on the top-notch Gigadat casinos in Canada. Level up your gaming experience by making informed choices with the help of BestCasinoPlay. Cheers to winning big in 2024! 

I replaced my battery, spark plugs and coil packs. Car seems to run smoother but is still occasionally throwing codes which cause the red triangle light to illuminate and says Urgent Emissions Service Required (or something like that). The issue usually happens about 10 minutes after I start the car. When it happens, I can turn the car off and immediately turn it back on and the issue goes away. I did the misfire correction exercise last night and used a Foxwell scanner to confirm it was successful. Went for a drive this morning and it still threw the codes. The codes are: 2106 and 2135. Any ideas? Would these be caused by bad 02 sensors? Thanks

I am glad some progress has been made, but there is clearly more to do. The two codes appear to be your old throttle issues again, nothing to do with the O2 sensors. 2106 is the throttle body sensors error and 2135 is the throttle pedal position sensor discrepancy. It is odd that you get both and suggests to me that rather than the usual dirty sensors that needs cleaning (the usual suspect and apparently tied already) it is the system that checks for faults in this subsystem that is in error occasionally. There seems to be some cryptic wording in your original report from the dealer that suggests they were thinking something similar. I am not an expert in these systems and cannot offer detailed suggestions. What I would do is the following. Take the Foxwell unit and look for the real time data screens. I recall you can monitor both the demand and actual throttle pedal position. With the ignition on, but engine off, gently press the throttle and look for any glitches, jumps or non-linearities in position. Then repeat with the car outside, stationary and warming up. You might get lucky and see something wig-out as the engine warms. Other than that I can suggest nothing better than a trip to the dealer, but now at least with a focused set of intermittent issues rather than a laundry list. Good luck. Philip

Well, folks…the problem persists and is REALLY frustrating. Almost always, the car throws the codes within the first 1o minutes of starting. Sometime in only a few minutes. Once the car warms up, it does not seem to throw the codes. My indy, who also happens to be an electrical engineer, thinks it is a loose connection in the wiring harness. His best guess is that when the car warms up/gets hot, the connection is more solid/stable. I live in Dallas, Texas. It is warm even in the mornings. I store the car in an underground garage. Yesterday, I drove to the golf tourney in Ft. Worth. The car threw codes in the morning a few minutes after I started it. I cleared the codes, and the car ran great all the way to Ft. Worth (not quite an hour). I came out of the golf tourney about 5 hours later. Car had been sitting in the sun. The car started right up and did not throw any codes on the drive home. This morning, the car threw codes within a few minutes of starting. Went to the practice range, hit *****, had lunch, started car a few hours later, and it threw the codes. Took several times with the Foxwell to clear them. And, the car is now not only going into limp mode. It will die. SO FRUSTRATING. I love everything about this car, but this electrical gremlin is making me sour. Is there some way to simply disconnect the portion of the software/electrical system that is causing this malady? If not, any other suggestions on how to fix the problem? HELP!

These kind of things are indeed frustrating. I think there is nothing for it but to strip back carpet and trim and start wiggling wires and sensors from one end to the other to see if one recreates to fault once warm. I would suggest flexing as well as wiggling modules and sensors as you ( or they) go. I will add that my suspicion is a dry joint or lifted pad on a PCB either in a module or even a sensor. Usually loose wires are more sensitive to vibration and road bumps. Printed circuit boards flex a little as other components onboard warm and this can close a minute gap and spring load a dry joint or lifted pad. Hence they are more immune to vibration. I have had this on a few boards over the years that were not car related, but similar technology. Bummer

Doing the monitoring with the Foxwell as previously suggested would be a great idea. But unless you know what the numbers you are looking at are telling you (I am clueless) then I it’s not much help. This is best left to a knowledgeable tech. What I would suggest is replacing one or both TBs, as the codes suggest issues with the TB. They are $350 used on eBay and very easy to install for a DIYer. Probably less than you would spend for 1 hr of diagnostic at AM. Unfortunately, your codes don’t say which side is throwing the error, Both sides are the same part so start with one and see how it goes. If the issue persists, put back the original one and replace the other side. It would be VERY odd that both of your TBs are bad, so I believe you can find the issue quickly. Hope this helps.

@Tashakes—-I have a 2006 V8V. I think there is only one throttle body. Please correct me if I am wrong. Can anyone tell me what values should be on the Foxwell? My “relative throttle position” and “absolute throttle position” differ greatly (4.7058 v. 15.924 with engine not running). Same thing with pedal position: Absolute sensor 1(20.392) v Absolute sensor 2 (9.8039) with engine not running. Anyone know what they should be? The car runs about 10 minutes, goes into limp mode, and then dies. Sigh…

@Skidog214 sorry you are right. I was thinking of the V12. I’m not sure if you have posted on the FB DIY group to get what the correct readings should be or more help. There is a wealth of knowledge there including a couple of certified AM techs as well as actual factory engineers. Worth a try.

Thx Tashakes. I am not on FB, but maybe I will join.

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Quote: pm coming your way Edwin

Hopefully you have googled those codes and looked at what can be found on the web. Here's a good thread on the 2135 code: https://blog.1aauto.com/how-to-diagn...ke-a-mechanic/ The nice thing about the OBDII system is that the codes are all used, and the errors that they identify tend to translate from OEM to OEM. I usually start with Ford as my comparison point to Aston (which are hard to find online).

Thought I would provide a follow-up for others who may encounter a similar problem. There is a small group of 4 or 5 thin wires that are encased in a black sleeve that runs to a connector on the left side of the throttle body. The encasing material/sheath had been removed a bit (probably to inspect the wires) and the wires were exposed and “drooping” onto a metal component that gets hot as the engine warms up. I ran the wires over a vaccum hose to hold them taught and away from the heat of the engine and—-no more problems! So, I hope this helps someone else. I appreciate the constructive input of all in this community.