9 captured repliesPartial discussion capture · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCH99- 996 temp issues.
Leading reported evidence
Check sensors and it came
Performed · outcome unconfirmed
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
Reported fixes
0
Unsuccessful attempts
1
Discussions
Read evidence and context
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
The mechanic said he checked all the sensors and it came with a new sensor I guess when he swapped out the tank..
Leading evidence: 'Check sensors and it came' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'expansion tank' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check sensors and it came' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I recently bought an OBC reader (ELM327 WiFi) and installed ODB Fusion on my iphone 5.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
Discussions that performed work without a confirmed outcome
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I'm in Fla, mine stays right on the 8 in the 180 mark unless I run her hard then she goes to between the 8 and 0, as mentioned everyone's guage is different so you're fine even just above the 0.
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Discussions that suspect a cause
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Suspected cause · Original poster
despite me telling the mechanic I thought it was the expansion tank..
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Discussions that contain suggestions
1
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Suggestion
But I would clean the raidators, check to ensure the coolant is up to snuff, in fact a dealed can flush and change coolant for about $100 bucks.
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Suggestion
I mentioned in a previous post, in temps like NC and Florida with little chance of a deep freeze, I would run 70% distilled water to 30% Porsche coolant.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
I'm in Fla, mine stays right on the 8 in the 180 mark unless I run her hard then she goes to between the 8 and 0, as mentioned everyone's guage is different so you're fine even just above the 0.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
9 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
6SpeedOnline: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261026T212127Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Ok.. so thought I would throw this out there.. I have a 99-996 that was running fine.. maybe a little warm on excessively warm days.. but all within the normal temp range. One day I came out and found the car was dripping a little coolant under the driver side exhaust. Took the car in and after far too long to diagnose.. despite me telling the mechanic I thought it was the expansion tank.. the tank was swapped out. I get the car back and now the temp gauge light it flashing it’s red light slowly and the car is not heating up correctly. I drove it about 40 miles this morning and the temp was sitting at no more than 110 on the gauge.. it was ice cold for most of the drive and I sat in a small amount of traffic and it rose slightly and then started coming back down again when I started moving. It was not overly cold out.. 55- 60 degrees Fahrenheit outside temp. Coolant level is fine so I’ve read the light flashes slowly when it’s low.. but I’m lost on why now it’s not temping the right way. The mechanic said he checked all the sensors and it came with a new sensor I guess when he swapped out the tank.. wanted to dismantle the speedometer to get to the bottom of the flashing light and I said no. Just curious if anyone has seen or experienced anything like this? I appreciate your time!
I have a 2001 996 C2 that is running a little hot. In traffic, 85 degrees ambient temperature, I will run 103 C or higher at times. I have been using the HVAC head unit to monitor the temp. I recently bought an OBC reader (ELM327 WiFi) and installed ODB Fusion on my iphone 5. The OBC reader is reading about 3 to 4 C less that the HVAC display. Why would they be different and which one is the accurate reading? Am I reading two different sensors? Thanks for your help.
I don't know about NC, But in Colorado we use F as a temp. What is that in U.S. measurement? You might be perfectly fine. Start, if you haven't by cleaning out your fan intakes.
according to your manual, you have nothing to worry about until the light is red. mine runs north and south of that 3rd line your looking at. depending on ambient temp, load and ac. I had an air cooled too and these cars can run hot. this isnt your passenger car.
The way I understand it, when a 996 is running right, the needle should be between the 8 and the 0 on the "180" on the guage. If your guage is marked in Centigrade this means you are running north of 212 (boiling) on the Farenheit scale. This does not sound like a normal running temp to me. I live in Florida and with a/c running, the needle sometimes moves to the outer right edge of the 0 on the 180 mark. I just had some extensive work on mine to eliminate coolant leaks and I've been running in that zone ever since.
Everyone's gauge reads different. They are imperfect and not right on. These cars do not love the heat and it is important to keep them as cool as you can. I mentioned in a previous post, in temps like NC and Florida with little chance of a deep freeze, I would run 70% distilled water to 30% Porsche coolant. Since we have such a large quantity of fill required, I also recommend TWO (2) bottles of Red Line Water Wetter. I did this after pulling my bumper, and PULLING APART the radiators to clean in between and with a brush to make sure all fins can cool There was so much stuck in there I could not believe it. Cig butts, embedded dirt, etc.....that you cannot get out by surface spraying no matter how hard you try. It is a big job, but worth it. I normally run in the center of the 0 on 180, but when hot or in slow traffic it will go near the 3/4 hash and the fans will kick on. This car needs the air flowing over the radiators to stay properly cool. When I pull a hill it kicks up near the 3/4 hash, and to the left of the 0 on they way down the other side. In traffic, I've read to turn on your A/C if your car is getting hot. This kicks the fans on high in advance of getting too hot...regardless of temp. I've also got an LN Engineering 160 T stat, but this is of no help when it is wide open on a hot day....just keeps it cooler longer. Good luck and keep us posted.
Let me chime in a little
I'm in Fla, mine stays right on the 8 in the 180 mark unless I run her hard then she goes to between the 8 and 0, as mentioned everyone's guage is different so you're fine even just above the 0. But I would clean the raidators, check to ensure the coolant is up to snuff, in fact a dealed can flush and change coolant for about $100 bucks.
If you temp goes too high you could have a pressure leak, bad sensor, bad coolant, or a bad radiator.