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Leading reported evidence
Replace sender
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Suggestion
Volt gauge sounds similar too, only way to check accuracy would be digital voltmeter on the alternator, if it's working and battery not dying then I'd say leave it alone.
Leading evidence: 'Replace sender' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, the most frequently mentioned possible cause is 'alternator change is looming' (1 discussions; 0 report identifying it and 1 suggest it). The most frequently discussed action is 'Check accuracy would be digital voltmeter' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
Volt gauge sounds similar too, only way to check accuracy would be digital voltmeter on the alternator, if it's working and battery not dying then I'd say leave it alone.
Explicit resolution reports before identified causes, performed actions and suggestions. Within each level, matching component labels precede direct query mentions and inherited thread context; successful versus unsuccessful discussion counts, owner confirmations and independent discussion support determine order. This is not a probability of success.
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Suggestion
No, that seems about right ballers, a spot more oil will help keep the pressure up, mine was at the recommended halfway point but would not go over 3 and idled 0.5 hot.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I don't know if changing from 5W40 to 10W50 is going to make a huge difference tho?
These are separate views of the same evidence. Frequency alone does not establish a fix, and these counts must not be added together.
Check accuracy would be digital voltmeter
No successful repair reported for this finding.
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Unsuccessful attempts
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Suggestion
Volt gauge sounds similar too, only way to check accuracy would be digital voltmeter on the alternator, if it's working and battery not dying then I'd say leave it alone.
0 original-poster resolution reports. Counts can overlap; they are not unique people or a success rate.
0 discussions have direct query context; 0 report a fix in that context. Other evidence may inherit the discussion’s subject.
Suggestion
No, that seems about right ballers, a spot more oil will help keep the pressure up, mine was at the recommended halfway point but would not go over 3 and idled 0.5 hot.
Counts describe captured discussions, not unique people or a diagnosis. Author identities are not reliably stored. Exact duplicate evidence is counted once across matching discussions; one discussion counts at most once per action/state. Multiple repairs reported together remain a combination. Suggestions and failed attempts do not establish a fix. Matches cover whole discussions and can include related faults, model variants and incomplete threads.
6 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T042512Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
Hi all, I'd appreciate thoughts on some queries re the voltmeter and the oil pressure gauge.
Firstly , how accurate are they, and are they 'buffered' like the temp gauge?
My pressure gauge doesn't go above 4.5 bars even at first start (my 993 is always up at 5 to begin with) and it appears to be quite 'laggy' compared to the 993 when the engine is warmed up and accelerating hard. Is it looked on as an accurate gauge? As an aside I've just replaced the sender.
WRT to the battery gauge, it seems to fluctuate between 12.5 and 14V, it normally drops to 13V under load (AC, lights, wipers etc on) and maybe a bit lower again if the engine is at idle. Is this normal gauge behaviour?
I suspect an alternator change is looming.
Thanks all!
No, that seems about right ballers, a spot more oil will help keep the pressure up, mine was at the recommended halfway point but would not go over 3 and idled 0.5 hot. Topped oil to Max and now much like yours and much healthier pressure and yes not as whippy up and down as the 993 was.
Volt gauge sounds similar too, only way to check accuracy would be digital voltmeter on the alternator, if it's working and battery not dying then I'd say leave it alone.
Brill, thanks for your reply ..
Mine ideals hot at 1 bar, I thought that was very low! But it's full as per the gauge..
Was thinking of increasing to 10W50 to see if it'd help.
Your 0.5 bar gives me comfort tho :grin:
My 2 pennys
Ignition on and the oil gauge should read zero .. anything above that and replace the sender unit .
4.5 bar is correct on a cold engine .. it will drop off as it gets warm .
928 the other day and the needle jammed at max for a few seconds .. the sender was over reading and the gauge wont go higher than 5 bar so it jammed the gauge .
Pretty accurate if it reads zero at the start though ... ie if it reads less than 1bar when hot on idle then i would take that as a fault and want a seperate oil gauge check to confirm it .. in other words i take that seriously .
Dash volt meter .. take it with a pinch of salt .. not that accurate .. a true reading is done via a volt meter on the battery .
Basically ive repeated what Asterix said
Thanks DM (was hoping you'd comment!)
Mine has had the sender just changed, it was just reading max value up to then.
It's now giving good read outs except showing 1 bar once it's properly hot. This is too low I think.
I don't know if changing from 5W40 to 10W50 is going to make a huge difference tho?
1 bar is about right .. should be slightly over 1bar to be fair .
We as a garage dont go above 5/40 on these cars .
Please be aware though that you have a seperate warning light for low oil pressure .. that would flicker on a hot idle if there was actually an oil pressure fault .
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