5 captured repliesDiscussion pagination complete · Source accounts, not a confirmed diagnosis
THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHVoltage regulator
Leading reported evidence
Disconnect battery first though
Suggestion or failed attempt
No successful repair reported for this finding.
0
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1
Discussions
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Leading evidence: 'Disconnect battery first though' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Disconnect battery first though' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
we can only replace an alternator but i expect its just a couple of screws .
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Suggestion
For me as a garage then im afraid we have to replace the alternator as we have to guarentee the work we do so replacing parts is not viable .
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Suggestion
To test an alternator then you need it under a load and use a volt meter on the battery ..
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Suggestion
hence we use a seperate voltmeter to see whats Actually going on .
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5 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
911uk: 1 discussions
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Its a bit of a fiddle to remove the alternator , lever bars are needed but not what i would class as beyond anyone here .
Disconnect the battery first though
Remove the 8mm nuts that hold the vac take off .
When you refit the alternator , the slide bung needs knocking back ..
Never .. ever just hit it , you will snap the alternator bracket .
Use a socket thats over sized .. 22 - 24 mm and place it over the slide bung / rear bracket and on the floor so that it supports the rear alt . bracket .. then inset the bolt and hit that a few times to move the slide bung back a bit .
As per the reg then i cant say .. we can only replace an alternator but i expect its just a couple of screws .
I would ask whats the problem though first ?
Thanks for the answer. The problem is when the car warms up the volt meter drops back to around 13 volts. It hovers around the 14 but just below when cold. I don't use the car every day and lately it's been getting some short trips and cold starts and I'm having to charge the battery every few days because it's a bit sluggish to start. All the stuff I have read suggests it's symptoms are a voltage regulator issue. They are much cheaper than a full alternator.
I did the voltage regulator on my 996. Symptoms were different though. Voltage meter needle was jumping and falling. Worn bushes apparently. Bosch part bought from ebay Poland.
The job was quite straight forward as long as you hve the large spanner. I think one with a curved/bent head is easier as it is quite tight to take the strain off the belt.
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=94134&highlight=voltage+regulator
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252352897477?ViewItem=&item=252352897477
Pip
To test an alternator then you need it under a load and use a volt meter on the battery ..
No load , voltmeter will read anything upto 14 volts , under a load so lights on , main beam , heated seats on .. anytihng else electrical you have and it should read 13 volts or higher .. anything less then to me its worn brushes or a burnt comutator .. a voltage reg wont fix this .. sanding down the com may well do so .
For me as a garage then im afraid we have to replace the alternator as we have to guarentee the work we do so replacing parts is not viable .
Its not always the alternator though .. you have the main power lead that runs from the alternator to the battery .. the gearbox connection can also corrode causeing a low charge .
The normal test is to measure the voltage at the alternator and then at the battery .. anything more than 0.6 of a volt difference indicates a corroded lead .
The Instrument cluster gauge is not accurate .. hence we use a seperate voltmeter to see whats Actually going on .
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