Centre Lock Torque Wrench - Page 2 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

What are the go to options for this in the UK? I had the Precision Instruments C4D600F36H on back order from a US vendor for 4 months now but have just cancelled the order as i'm not convinced it will ever materialise. Are there any UK sources for this, or any other similarly compact torque wrenches known to do the job? I like the idea of having something I can travel with easily in case of problems abroad.

I use a snap on torque multiplier. Bought it used bit ideal as it fits in the frunk easily and means a normal garage / AA torque wrench will then suffice. There will be other makes you can use.

Please can others in the know add a bit more help on this subject. I would like to be able to remove my centrelock wheels rather than rely on others. Watching the help video's the multiplier looks to me more complicated with bits of wood and breaker bars working in opposite diections. If i get the norbar torque converter around £300 some jack point stands and an alignment tool is that all the specialist equipment needed?

I went with the torque multiplier and a compact (but still appropriately rated) torque wrench. Very straightforward to use and compact enough to be carried in a small fabric bag in the frunk. If you search on here (maybe under my Shortshift username) you should uncover more detail and some images from 2018 or 2019 (sorry, I forget when exactly). James

In fact... here you go: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Some images of my kit appear around 10th January 2019. James

I need to sort out something for my gt3 so watching...

short-shift said: In fact... here you go: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Some images of my kit appear around 10th January 2019. James As per that thread, I ended-up going for one of these (a digital torque adapter). I now carry it in the car, under the passenger seat. You need a 3/4” breaker bar to do the heavy stuff but most ordinary tyre places have them - they are pretty standard for dealing with tyres on commercial vehicles. You just use the torque adapter at the end to get the torque to 600Nm. Have used it a couple of times on my GTS and it’s worked well so far.

I bought the Precision Instruments C4D600F36H combination torque wrench and breaker bar kit in from the States. Its fully collapsible so will fit in the front boot if required and goes well past the required 600NM torque setting. Comes complete with calibration certificate and is a cracking piece of kit. Think I paid $450 plus shipping (around 5 years ago) More info on options here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Once you've used it a few times its actually quite a simple process! Chris

Thanks all for the suggestions. Torque multipliers - I'm just a little nervous something may slip and i'll end up destroying something so I prefer to steer away from these Precision Instruments - This is what I had money down on, but that is no longer good enough to get the product. Very few places in the US have them and those that ship to the UK do not, great well packaged kit though Torque adapter - For some reason I didn't know these were a thing but now it seems so obvious, a simple load cell. I move pretty quickly so i've now bought one of these and a 1m breaker bar. £200 all in, very happy about this considering the alternatives

Be interested to know if the 1m breaker bar is up to the job. My OPC uses a 1.2m norbar torque wrench and it’s still a job to undo them. Maybe I’ve just got noodle arms though!

I've gone the toque adapter route as well, I ordered a sealey STW 292 and a 3/4 1000 breaker bar. I'll make an extension to the bar if 1000mm is too difficult. If the input on the digital adaptor is 1/2" I'll need a reducer as well.

I would think you'll need a lot bigger than a 1m breaker. I regularly do 220nm on crank bolts and thats a massive tow!

I’m reasonably powerfully built but with my 1m breaker bar and a thick pair of gardening gloves I can only achieve 600Nm for a second or so. Any ideas on where to source a decent extension? I”ve been scanning local skips for a short length of scaffold but without much success so far.

I'd agree, 1m isn't enough, but it's the longest I can easily source and that can still tuck away somewhere in the car. I have various jack handles I use to add leverage so can extend it out a few meters.

Yeah I've just been having a look and amazingly nobody seems to make a longer one

Snap On do a great breaker bar and ratchet head,zero flex in the bar,most breaker bars are poor quality and flex ,plus movement in the knuckle. Get a peice of t45 tube that fits snuggley over your breaker bar,again less flex With t45.

In Mad Scientists post it mentions opc use 1.2 m norbar to untighten center locks. Is it ok to use the norbar to undo the center locks. I thought it could only be used to tighten

how much leverage is needed when using the sealey torque muliplier,does it not reduce

The opc doesn't use torque multipliers. I would like to know if the norbar which is not a multiplier can be used to undo

Benelux said: The opc doesn't use torque multipliers. I would like to know if the norbar which is not a multiplier can be used to undo It all comes down to the required loosening torque of the nut. If it is lower than the maximum spec of the torque wrench then you could use it, else you run the risk of damaging it This being said, I had a tyre issue and had a dealer tech come to my house to resolve. He came equipped with an 800Nm Snap On torque wrench for both loosening and tightening procedures. Personally I wouldn't risk a £1k torque wrench but this is an option

I do agree, I'll just use a breaker bar to undo, subject to me having the strength with a bar of 1.5m

https://www.norbar.com/products/view/product/categ... It’s actually nearly 1.5m These aren’t your usual torque wrench where the head “clicks”. The middle “breaks” to indicate required torque. Norbar state that you can use a torque wrench to undo so long as the breakaway torque isn’t more than the maximum setting of the wrench.

This might be a bit low rent for you guys but we always used a bit of scaffolding over the breaker bar with farm machines - makes everything very quick and easy without hardly any effort. For those who want to put it in your car if you have a 1m tube over the breaker it gives you 2m leverage..

bosshog said: This might be a bit low rent for you guys but we always used a bit of scaffolding over the breaker bar with farm machines - makes everything very quick and easy without hardly any effort. For those who want to put it in your car if you have a 1m tube over the breaker it gives you 2m leverage.. Would need to be Titanium Weissach Scaff

Mad Scientist said: https://www.norbar.com/products/view/product/categ... It’s actually nearly 1.5m These aren’t your usual torque wrench where the head “clicks”. The middle “breaks” to indicate required torque. Norbar state that you can use a torque wrench to undo so long as the breakaway torque isn’t more than the maximum setting of the wrench. My local tyres shop uses a bar with that kind of breaking action when they’re taking the CL wheels of my car.

A little update for those interested in this topic. I bought the 1m breaker bar and Sealey torque adapter. Getting the wheels nuts off is pretty easy with the breaker bar, and I say this as a small'ish 60kg chap who's not seen a gym for a few years. However, metering torque back on is not as precise as i'd like, hitting 600Nm is a workout but overshooting is more the issue. So, I've bought a 1.5m aluminium scaffold pole to try and help add some precision. I'll feedback how that goes down in a few days.

Thanks for all the help, I ended up buying one of these as I prefer to have a good quality torque tool. https://www.norbar.com/products/view/product/categ... I will also be buying this to undo the CL, https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-pro201-ratc...

Shanksy87 said: A little update for those interested in this topic. I bought the 1m breaker bar and Sealey torque adapter. Getting the wheels nuts off is pretty easy with the breaker bar, and I say this as a small'ish 60kg chap who's not seen a gym for a few years. However, metering torque back on is not as precise as i'd like, hitting 600Nm is a workout but overshooting is more the issue. So, I've bought a 1.5m aluminium scaffold pole to try and help add some precision. I'll feedback how that goes down in a few days. How did it go? Just looking for a solution myself and interested in the Sealey torque adaptor route and a large bar.