Floaty Front End - Already Replaced Whole Suspension

Hi All, I recently purchased an 02 996 Cabriolet with 69k. The front end is "floaty" - the wheel doesnt shake, but it feels like - a) The car never takes a "set" or "squat" in sweepers b) the steering feels numb on center and has a tiny bit of play c) In a sweeper, when it feels vague, if I try to correct into the turn, it feels like the front end goes loose and then I go back and forth overcorrecting. I basically just don't "TRUST" the steering, especially at higher speeds. Here's the thing - I think I've eliminated most of the suspects, but here's what I have going on - and this was happing before I replaced the whole suspension, which is what I chalked it up to. - Replaced entire suspension... all tie rods, arms, bushings, top mounts, etc. Installed Koni Active struts (also, the rear seems like it's sitting a little high, but that's another issue). All other components "stock" or "OEM Equivalent" - Meyle, Lumfoerder, etc, some genuine Porsche - Aligned the car with a Hunter Machine (at America's Tire) - Running on original, stock, non-M030 springs - Running on original MY02 5-Spole rims on 18's (yes, could have a little understeer due to larger-spec, I believe 225/40 and 295/30 What am I missing? Need new steering rack? I've read that there's some "nut" that bolts to the steering rack which can get loose...... Ideas!? Driving me nuts. I'm way more $ into the car than it's worth, and I just want to enjoy it. Thx!!

Hi, i think my steering rack needs replacement soon on my 04 GT. How difficult to replace it? Anyone replaced? Cheers

Funny you post this because I just experienced something similar on my own newly-bought 996. In my case, the steering would get progressively more numb/unresponsive >80mph so I immediately thought of aero. Got the car onto a long straight, went >120mph and realized the front end was lifting so much I had to adjust my mirrors to stop seeing the ground. I looked under the car and found missing tire spats - after replacing them, the car now turns in firmly and my mirrors can stay still. Presumably, allowing radiator air to get under the front tires is the root cause (haven't CFD'd this myself, educated guess based on past professional experience) so that's why Porsche has a complex air guide + tire spat system between the radiators and the tires. Any one part of it missing can really muck up the car's front aero, which cascades to affecting the rear because the car's flat bottom is pretty good from the factory. Besides aero, the usual suspects can be chalked off like a proper alignment (don't listen to factory specs, use more than 0 front camber), ensuring no dynamic front toe, and yeah the whole assembly from steering wheel to tierods should be tight and free of play. It's a pretty simple car thankfully so there aren't too many things to check or replace.

See link and info starting around post # 16. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...any-input.html .

I have had the same issue and similar to you, after chasing the issue with repalcement underbody panels etc I found it was fixed by altering the suspension settings to give the car some front down rake. Issue according to a local Porsche specialist is that if the car sits front-end up, at speed this gets worse and lifts the front end.

can probably rebuild it , check flying spares for kit I rebuilt my 2003 Arnage T with no problem however I am a mechanic

Are you sure the 996 comes with tire spats? I've been to multiple mechanics, including a race shop, and nobody has said anything about spats being missing if they do.

I did that on my few years ago, you need to remove all front suspension components. Guy who rebuild it said it is basically Audi A8 rack with different steering ratios. Once new one is in place wheels alignment need to happen. Remember to do suspension levelling adaptation (due to removal of front suspension) and steering angle calibration(so esp error will not pop up)

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how can I alter the suspension for rake when I don’t have coil overs. I’m on stick springs and put in Koni FSD/actives Quote:

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Quote: Thanks for info, did you get rebuild kit from flying spares? Mine is not leaking but when driving on roundabout and hit pathole make knocking. Check all susspension seems good, so only steering rack i could think off. When driving straight no issue.

It sounds like you have too much toe out at the front, and maybe too little toe in at the rear. I get the US has higher ride height than we get in the EU, and thus your geo settings are slightly different, Porsche even recommend 0 toe at the front, even a smidge of toe out if the customer feels it understeers a bit, but this will give you exactly what you are seeing/feeling. I suggest no more than 1º of negative camber up front and then you want some toe in, around 0.03º. At the rear 1-1.5º negative camber and 0.12 toe in each side, not total tow. This will take away the constant fidgeting with the steering wheel, with the US setting it almost feels as though your top mounts are loose, when the wheel is off centre it feels as if there is play in the suspension somewhere. The setting above will give make the steering feel far more solid off centre and a bit heavier, yeah you will invoke a bit of understeer but unless you are on a track this will allow you to feel what the car is doing more, it will make it feel more plated and make you feel more confident the back end it not going to let go. If you feel more confident, if you feel the car is more planted, you will be able to carry far more speed. Cars set up for the track tend to be horrible in the road, not just too twitchy, too much of a handful, but it makes them feel tired in some way, get a more balanced geo set up and the whole car will feel so, so much tighter overall. Unless you have pool table smooth roads, I would never have any tow out on a road car.

I'm in uk. Flying spares rebuilds where 800+ GBP at that time, I don't know what it is now. My friend who did all the work send it out to company that specialise in racks rebuild for 200GBP. They did it over night. He found them on ebay. They said those racks will fail in south of uk due to rust, apparently it is very common. In terms of failure, mine developed loose after replacing track rods (don't know if i needed anyway), about half inch and no loose on suspension arms or links. However knocking on pathole would indicate bushing going bad, if it is lower one you need to replace whole whishbone. 2004 one had steel wishbones, now they make only aluminium so you might get upgrade!

I should add, I have Koni Special actives on mine, but with H&R blue springs, they are around 30mm drop from US. They are very comfy, better than OEM non M030, especially at low speeds.

I am in UK too. Essex. I understand now, if it's audi a8 rebuild seals fit, anyone who rebuilds a8 racks cqn do it. It's very good idea 👌 my rack has no loose, we tested in garage by holding wheel and turning steering wheel same time checking for movement, mechanic said it's very very small play. All suspension checked but everything very good. You know roundabouts that has tarmac connections across the road, knock happens while steering on tension while going on roundabout. I will go to other garage for checking. Where your friends garage located?