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YOUR RESEARCHSolenoid Replacement......what else??
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Install by po, i just ran it
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Installed by PO, I just ran it with the solenoid off and recently removed it.
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Removed my Greddy ebc and installed the n75 in preparation for a new 1bar tune from Markski.
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I have always used Greddy in the past, Apexi once or twice.
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Hi Everyone,
My CEL is showing, P1325, P1341, P1411.
I gave the car to a friend who works at the Porsche Dealership to run it through the system. He said the solenoid needs to be replaced.
If i had it done at Porsche it would cost over $6k, because the motor needs to be dropped.
I asked him his advice what i should do, he said the car has 125kmiles..potential IMS problems in the near future..etc putting $6k+ into the car isnt worth it and i should part ways with it.
I'm not ready to get rid of the car.
My independent guy said he would do it for around $3k.
My Big question is, while the Engine is out.. what else should be replaced??
1. Solenoid
2. IMS
3. Secondary Air Injection Valve (P1411)
What else???
How many belts(timing chain?) does the car have?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Attached are some pics from this weekends detail session.
Thanks
Derrick
So I've always had an EBC on every other turbo car I've owned.
My favorites are the Blitz DSBC and Greddy Profec B, I've found these hold boost the best compared to others like Apexi with smaller solenoids.
Why aren't more Porsche guys running EBC's.
Yes we all know one false move and boom but that's usually user error and everyone takes the risk of blowing up once you start modding.
Not too long ago I was getting eratic boost on my current tune, I wish I had some flexibility, I ended up unpluggin the n75 connector, then unplugging the battery then everything straightened out.. but I wish I could have just turned boost off like I've done in the past.
I'm very familiar with the setting of these type of devices, normally I have only three settings:
Off usually wastegate pressure for when it rains or valet
low boost for pump gas and daily driving
hi boost for race gas and racing (this usually gets very little use but I would know when to switch back as I have always in the past)
You might be able to remove the valve covers and swap out the solenoids with the engine in the car.
SAI could be the valve:
http://p-car.com/996/diy/sai/mainpage.html
I used many types of EBC ,
I prefer the HKS EVC6 as its very easy to set , you have a lot of functions , boost by rpm / boost by TB / boost by s button !!
Just my opinion
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I'm familiar with that one too, lots of bells and whistles similar to the AVCR.
Personally I think the small single solenoid isn't capable or regulating higher boosts especially with all the settings.
The simpler large solenoid ones have always been more solid in my experience.
My second hand info is the VarioCam solenoid on the 996 engine is rather easy to replace, easier than it is in Boxster engine (which I had to have done some time back).
IIRC the camshaft cover doesn't even have to come off to replace either of the 996 engine's solenoids.
If the actuator is bad the camshaft cover has to come off and the cams have to come out but I believe this does not require the engine to come out as both the solenoid and actuator on the passenger side of my Boxster was done with the engine in the car.
Note that it is possible the solenoid *and* actuator is bad so if you just replace the solenoid you may get errors that indicate the actuator is bad.
However, since the solenoid is rather easy to do you might gamble on just the solenoid.
Well if your tune is setup to handle the higher boost setting/fuel/spark, why can't you just run a standalone boost controller? Doesn't the AEM boost controller have some safety built into it? Overboost, etc. Maybe pair that with a AEM UEG Failsafe gauge and you could have a pretty safe setup.
I used the Profec B-spec mostly in my old turbo cars. I remember using the Apexi AVC-R as well. All pretty good from what I can recall. I remember the profec holding boost really well.
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I'm running the profec B in my car. I have the same thoughts about it as you and use it in a similar way. At first I didn't like the extra parts and hoses that could possibly fail but now I love being able to change the boost at the touch of a button. Like I was told, it's not for everyone because it does require more attention and monitoring. Also, I find the transition to full boost and back to no boost a little more abrupt than ECU control. But that's at the high boost setting of about 1.1 bar. I could probably tweak it a bit to smooth it out.
I was working on my 2001 996 the other day replacing the belts when it was slightly raining out. I went to start the car and didn’t have my air box on, car went to start and I saw a small puff of white smoke on the drivers side rear wheel well. Then car would not start and I noticed I blew a fuse C1, which is related to the ECU.
I looked further into what had burned up and I saw a small burn hole in the Variocam Solenoid. This is a 2001 996 3.4l, so it’a part of the 5 chain Family. I’m wondering if I can just replace the Solenoid or should I replace the whole Actuator as well? I have no idea why it burned up like that, maybe bad ground or Actuator went? Let me know what you think. I don’t want to put a new Variocam Solenoid in the car and then have it burn up again!
Also if I go about tackling this job, it’s said that you should lock the cams before replacing the Solenoid? And does the actuator actually need to be vertical instead of horizontal when replacing? Just let me know what you all think and thank you!
Ive been running greddys all my life and one EVC 6, which was hard to set up actually...if you know your way around a greddy then get a tune for it... and you will be more then happy.... you cant just unplug the n75..
markski
I have always used Greddy in the past, Apexi once or twice. But Greddy has always worked as it should have, setup in other builds was pretty straight forward. But with the new stuff out with boost by gear, rpm, failsafes etc, just a diff ball game.
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Is this the one that AMS runs?
Thanks for your help!!!
Just finished recently upgrading to plex from greddy profec B... They are night and day
Plex is the most advanced ebc on the market for sure and runs also a 996tt firmware so can run lots of options regarding fine tune, performance, conpensations and safety logic
I compared with almost all other ebc on the market and this is almost like a standalone running over stock ecu
Anyway my old greddy runs strong too if you want just off/low/high and basic gain settings its a solid choice and much cheaper
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Marski what do yo umean you cant just unplug the n75?
With an EBC won't there be confusion between the n75 and external boost controller?
Is there a simple schematic how to hook one up?
I'm running no N75, W/G boost at the moment. I burned up multiple Greddy as it seems there's a short in the wiring to the solenoid. Installed by PO, I just ran it with the solenoid off and recently removed it. There's a code set but no light on my car, it was apparently setup for an EBC in the tune I was told.
Will be installing the Plex EBC on both my 996 TT as well as 3,8 993TT within the next 15 days
BEST EBC by far. I am lucky enough to be 500 meters away from the place they build these
John is an amazing guy. You should really try his products
Removed my Greddy ebc and installed the n75 in preparation for a new 1bar tune from Markski.
I've gone back and forth several times between ebc and ECU boost control. Hopefully, with this tune, this will be the last time I switch boost control around.
My Greddy was starting to act up as well, wiring harness plug wasn't always making contact and would shut the controller off until I wiggled the wires.
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It does require separate sensors. You need to have sensors that they support plus cable extensions, because the engine is way in the back of our car.
The reason is that they listen to the OBD traffic between ECU and ABS/PSM unit and in that communication you don't find lambda values.
Looks like they have this product coming out. I'm looking for a monitor tool to view Lambda and Boost using the stock ECU. Hoping this allows that:
http://www.plex-tuning.com/supportdo...RELIMINARY.pdf
The plex supports lamba for several aftermarket afr tools, including aem. Your best bet is to install a 3rd party afr and then use the output to connect to the plex.
The big benefit is being able to setup a failsafe. If the afr goes lean you can reduce boost instantly.
Let me know if you need help. I have this setup in my car. Works flawlessly.
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