My Carrera 3.2

I like 3.2's. I didn't plan to buy another one, it just sorta happened.  The fact that it wasn't perfect and needed a lot of work was part of its appeal as I didn't feel like it had to be bought back exactly to standard or to become just another "paint by numbers" 3.2 equipped with a Wong chip, a set of Turbo tie rods, Wevo shifter and Monty muffler that my '85 was.  Nothing wrong with this but I think the world has moved on to the point where modern aftermarket ecu's are a viable upgrade.  Anyway, enough yakky yak, let's talk what's happening at the moment: Cold Start Tuning The weather has been perfect lately to complete cold start tuning that my professional tuner was never going to experience due to his location. Consequently I've been adjusting the Engine Cranking Fuel Volume Compensation and the Engine Post Start Fuel Volume Compensation to have sufficient enrichment at low temperatures that the engine would fire and then idle for a sufficient time for the heads in particular to warm up enough so that continued enrichment is not required. How's this done? With a Motec, the Engine Cranking enrichment is a simple table of cylinder head temperature (coolant temp in normal applications) and engine revolutions (up to 6 cycles) in which the desired enrichment trim as a percentage is tabled.  With the Post Start enrichment, a similar table is constructed of head temperature and engine running time (in my case, 0, 5, 10, 30 and 60 second increments): Being blessed with a snowy morning wasn't to be wasted today for cold start tuning: I'm happy now with the cranking enrichment as the engine fires quite quickly but I need to increase the enrichment in post start table in the sub zero cells in the first 5 seconds of start up as it still currently barely runs at head temps of about 5 degrees or less for those first few moments .  I'll probably go up another 20% or so.  After being used to using a screw driver to adjust carburettors, using a laptop is something of a novelty for me! However I am amazed at how creamy smooth and toey the engine is when stone cold and it takes a lot of self control to keep it under about 3 grand until the oil temperature comes up.  Not like an old Motronic setup at all.

Finally! I'm glad you're up and running Pete.  Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh sometime soon.

Congrats Peter. Great to see if finally running again. I also look forward to catching up and checking it out.

Ummm.......Pete Was the choice of background in your 'winter wonderland' shot above deliberate?

Nice going.. My AEM system probably needs some tweaking.. when can you fly up to Brisbane?

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It's a bit loud now and just wanted to test it wouldn't wake the dead......

Or you brought it back from the dead 😎 It really does look fantastic.

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So while you are talking exhaust, are you sick of it yet? Is it loud around 100kmh?

I thought I heard a 911. 🤣

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I did wonder that too 🙂

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Nah, sounds great over 4 grand and no drone at all so all good. Turning down the idle speed (ie changing some numbers in a table in the M1 tuning software) from 1100 to just under 900 has stopped it sounding like a angry rotary and that has soothed my nerves a bit. Admit the rawness was a bit shock after driving my overstuffed pillow XJ6!

Exhausts for Carrera 3.2's You would think after selling 76,000 3.2's there would be a ready source of accurate information on what are the best exhausts to use on these cars?  Except for Steve Wong's infamous comparison table - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4082599-post49.html - that he later declared as inaccurate, there was nothing definitive that I could find.  After reading a million posts and dyno charts, this is what I uncovered: Porsche increased the size of the exhaust primaries from the earlier 1 1/2 inch OD to 1 5/8 inch with the introduction of the 3.2's in 1984. SSI's having only 1 1/2 primaries aid torque below around 2,800rpm and moderate it above.  Cabin heat still works well The standard 3.2 headers actually perform very well and any sensible owner would just change the primary muffler/ catalytic converter to a straight through pipe and change the main muffler to one of the better brands like Monty, M&K etc. Eisenmann do a 1 5/8 inch version of SSI's in two versions ( F model fits the generic style Porsche 2 in rear muffler or the G model that has a Eisenmann propriety catalyst and rear muffler) but are eye wateringly expensive and there has been a number of posts on Pelican about poor fitment and fabrication. I originally intended to only change my pistons and cylinders to the higher Euro spec compression ratio and run SSI's and actually bought a set of both.  I do like the SSI look and sound.  However a run up the grade of the Oxley Highway one Saturday afternoon inspired a desire for more horsepower as I couldn't keep up with a stock 996 let alone a Gallardo so these items were sold off and a set of 3.4 pistons purchased. Since heat was important to me I purchased a set of BBE stainless 1 5/8 inch primary headers with hot boxes that I had modified to work with the standard 3.2 air distribution pipe to keep a neat look and to avoid the 10 miles of flexible hosing that always makes me think of the "Danger Will Robinson!" robot in Lost in Space.  I topped it off with a Dansk Motorsport 2 in/1 out muffler as I got it cheapish from Design911 but would have bought an M&K otherwise. EDIT:  Some interesting comments on how good the standard 3.2 exhaust discussed here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1074815-88-3-6-conversion-planning-exhaust-advice-requested.html

Looks like a lovely example, nice and clean underneath as well. No doubt you will be pampering her to suit your driving style, you obviously have the skills to do more than most of us.  Enjoy 😉

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Haha, amazing what you find on the web, the drive that inspired my poverty. Not enough go and a recalcitrant 2nd gear syncro meant I just pulled over in the end. But caught up when the road flattened out.  Check out the eyes in the review mirror! Actually that was a great weekend away: Thanks Peter for the kind words but I actually bought this car because it wasn't perfect and I didn't want to feel constrained.  Anyone can have a drive if they wish!  As for skills, not really I was fortunate to find a mechanic I trust and a tuner who knows his stuff. Tour of New England National Parks.  Just have to slow down for the cattle grids!

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Maybe not perfect compared to your last 3.2 but still a fine machine and a nice hobby to tinker with.

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As you may already know Pete the talk has kicked off for another Bendy weekender.

I was following at a polite speed/distance I've been thinking about MP4-12C's quite a lot of late.

Engine Rebuild So in 2018 the engine was rebuilt to the usual 3.4 recipe with the expectation of achieving around 225 Dynojet rwhp: ARP rod bolts to allow 7000rpm safely Mahle Motorsport 98mm pistons that were further fly cut for more valve clearance Existing cylinder were over bored 3mm and re Nikasil'ed Twin plugged heads 993SS cams Balanced Cam position sensor and 30-2 crank wheel installed ready for later use. The original engine was generally in excellent condition for it's 245,000km with only the valve guides and stems being worn and leading to moderate oil consumption.  The pistons and cylinders were still well in spec and the bottom end was good as gold too.  All the head studs were solid.  The cams and some followers however were mildly pitted but not unworkable.  I certainly had the option of just reconditioning the cylinder heads and just slapping it back together for another 100,000km but that would been far too sensible!  Consequently everything that needed replacement was done and there was no expense spared.  I am certainly thankful that my mechanic was happy for me to supply all the parts and I certainly scoured the world for the best prices.  Once these engines are apart, let's just say every thing comes in thousand dollar increments! Of course I spent a good couple hours at the wire brush wheel preparing all the nuts, bolts, washers and other steel fittings for yellow zinc replating.  Not sure if that was as tedious as then having to cut each item off the copper wires when they came back from the platers. My smart idea of sending the cylinders to New Zealand wasn't the cleverest and ended up having to send them back to be redone.  Then being caught up in their Customers resulted in what should have been a 2 week job being a 3 month delay. As for the G50, it needed some new bearings and synchos as expected.  Probably the only surprise was the 5th gear set where the bearing surface of the main gear had brinelled.  The main surprise was the $2,500 cost of it's replacement!

curious, why did the cylinders need to be re-done?

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Mike, They were returned out of spec for roundness. They came back the second time absolutely perfect.

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So, was 225 realised ?  Or was that the $ spent x 100 ?

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Hey Peter, Can you share who you used for the yellow zinc plating & were you happy with the quality? I need to have most of the fasteners & assorted brackets on my car redone for my restoration, so I'm looking for a recommendation.

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Brian, The most accurate answer is I don't know! In the States Dynojet dyno's are very popular because they are very consistent but they are a rarity here in Australia.  (However just about every motorcycle shop here has a Dynojet bike one!.  Go figure!) Here, just about everyone has a Mainline dyno that isn't as flattering as a Dynojet and from what I can gather a Mainline reads between 15 to 19% less than a Dynojet.  So if that factor is applied and a few hp is given for the fact I'm still using the standard restrictive airbox, then "yes" mine is a pretty representative 3.4 engine build. What is really usual about my build is how flat and linear the torque curve is.  This has astonished me and I was not expecting this engine to be less peaky than a standard 3.2 and certainly orders of magnitude less peaky than my 993.  So I certainly have the option of retarding the current cam timing if I want to chase higher peak hp figures for brag purposes or even going to much longer duration cams.  However the current set up makes for a quick car in the hills.  Let me spend a bit of time on the Oxley and the Ebor to Dorrigo Road and I'll get back to you! $ per extra hp?  Wow, let's just say that equation is eye watering! Brett, I used Hamilton Chrome in Newcastle and was very happy with the results.  Cost a couple hundred dollars even though I prepared each item on a wire wheeled bench grinder and lost a bit a skin off the odd finger. I think is worth the cost and effort just for the improved appearance.

Twin Plug I think there are even less excuses not to go twin plug than ever before.  The old days when you had to use a special distributor or adapt that gawd awful 964/993 distributor are now long gone.  With a modern aftermarket ecu able to run 12 plugs just as well as 6 by direct fire and the cost of a few more coils barely registering a blip compare to the money being spent on rebuilding these engines, I can't see how anyone can justify not going twin plug.  There is no point denying the combustion chamber design on these cars is anything but bottom of the class nowadays. For me one of the  other motivators that rarely gets mentioned was to replicate the creamy smooth feel of my old 993.  I also had a twin spark Ducati SS1000DS at the time and that was a lovely engine as well. I think Steve Weiner summarised it neatly recently on Pelican: …. Twin-ignition has zero downsides (besides cost) and plenty of benefits that make it very worthwhile if one has the resources. More HP, more torque, reduced cylinder head temps, easier starting, and of course, reduced octane sensitivity. The latter may allow more timing depending on CR (remembering that twin-plug engines need 1/3 less total for complete combustion). …. Porsche used twin-ignition for more power with the fuel grades of the day, using higher CR going back to the 4-cam Carrera engines. Emissions wasn't a consideration. 3.6 litre engines NEED twin-ignition to safely run high CR's with pump gasolines. Full version here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1033435-twin-plug-not.html For my build I used the Nippon Denso coil on plugs (Denso 90919-02234) that are commonly used in Lexus and V6 Camry's that the turbo boys on Pelican swear by.  Others use the VW/Audi CoP's (Bosch 0986 221 024) successfully which are cheaper and if the dwell is kept less than 2ms, very reliable.  I also think the VW/Audi ones would be easier to mount as the height of the coil top is less and that I think would mean less bending and reshaping of the RSR plug holders to hold them in place.  Both these CoP's have built in ignitors and are readily available from eBay. There is also an earlier suitable VAG CoP the Megasquirt guys use due to their higher impedance: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1066575-x-faktory-3-2-a.html#post10942504 For my lower valve covers, I found I could buy a set of aluminium 964 overs cheaper than I could modify my stock ones.  Just had to enlarge the holes to fit the larger studs that the 3.2's use in comparison to the 964 ones.  Also allowed me to use the modern molded and reusable rubber cover seals.

Oxley Highway today. Magnificent.  Engine is just right how it is. Revy, responsive, smooth and fluid.  Could even be described as joyous. G50 is now a gem going up or down and the standard ratios seem better matched to the new engine too.

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Bastard.....

Getting in a few practice runs before the Bendy Bender Pete ?

Electronic Fuel Injection The 3.2's were sophisticated for their day.  The Bosch Motronic united the signals from all the engine functions and integrated the control of spark timing and fuel metering into the same microprocessor.  The use of 3 dimensional maps allowed timing and fuel to be mapped against rpm and loading (measured airflow).  Cutting edge stuff in the late 70's where Bosch at BMW's request integrated their L Jetronic fuel injection with their knowledge of electronic ignition control. Unfortunately those that wanted to modify their 3.2's were limited by the sensitivity of the airflow meter (AFM) to reversion and laborious and iterative job of having to re-flash a removable chip with new fuel and timing maps whenever modifications were required. I started out planning to have Mr Wong (or upsize to Mr Carceller with his MAF replacing the AFM) to do a special chip for me and this is the main reason I chose  a mild cam with little overlap (993SS with 114 degree lobe centres) as from what I could gather that was all the AFM could cope with.  With more research I realised I wanted to make use of the technology advances that have occurred rapidly over the last 40 years.  I wanted to use modern injectors, I wanted the throttle to be sharp and responsive, I didn't want a distributor.  Pretty much I wanted a fuel and ignition system from a modern car. I looked at Haltech and even did their 2 day training course, thought seriously of a VEMS from Peeps in Estonia and then Martin put me in contact with Benny.  "You need a Motec" he said and that was the beginning of a slippery slope. My 3.2 has: Motec M130GPA ECU Direct fire of 12 Nippon Denso CoP's Full sequential with Bosch 4 hole fuel injectors 0280 155 868's (running at around 60% duty cycle at full load) AFM delete.  Load modelling based on manifold absolute pressure, air temperature and throttle position Twin knock sensors mounted on 964/993 knock bridges attached to the underside of heads Twin wideband O2 sensors to allow each cylinder to have individual fuel and ignition trims Fuel pressure, air intake temperature and throttle position sensors Cam position sensor to correctly time the direct fire ignition and injection 36-1 crank wheel and sensor.  I wanted to use the standard flywheel arrangement but couldn't get a straight answer out of Haltech about whether their Elites would support this application. Clewett plug for the now vacant distributor hole in the crankcase! The AFM delete tube took 96hours to 3D print The standard 3.2 only has a switch to sense if it is at idle or WOT.  A modern ecu needs to know a bit more.  The adaptor plate is from EFI Hardware in Victoria and the TPS is a BMW style one from a Z3, Z4 or Z8 with BMW part no.: 13631402143 or 13637840383 or OEM Lowe part no.: 63143.  About 40 bucks. Knock bridges from a 964/993 were attached to the heads rather than the barrels.  The Motec is able to filter out the valve train noise. We started out calling this the "Auxiliary Harness" but it quickly became apparent that was a misnomer. The other end of the Auxiliary Harness.  No factory harnesses where harmed in this work so the car can be easily returned to standard if I ever sustain a head injury and want to go backwards.  Under the 3D printed box is the M130 unit plus some relays.  Some functions of the old factory harness (such as driving the tacho) are still used but had to upgrade the power supply conductor as the 12 coils draw about 15 amps. Why no individual throttle bodies like all the SC boys do? I wanted the engine to remain largely stock looking so I could sneak it through on Historic rego and only on second glance for it to give up its secrets.  Plus the big aluminium intake manifold is one of my favourite 3.2 appearance features.  Not that it's function is all that great though. Why no drive by wire? Could be done easily as the Motec can actually handle two throttle bodies and would allow me to increase the size of the throttle body.  However the standard 3.2 cable set up works pretty well with little striction so I haven't gone down this path.....yet.  Also I can't actually ascertain how much the standard sized throttle body is holding me back so it could end up  just being an expensive experiment. Why no turbo? While the car isn't perfect, its a bit to good to cut up for a turbo installation and just wanted something that had just enough.  I also have a theory that the most fun cars and motorcycles are the ones that you can thrash regularly without scaring yourself too much or ...…….dying.

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I remember a conversation where some other bloke said to go MOTEC!

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I remember HIS son said the same thing too! See, I do listen to you.

New to 3.2 Ownership? This is what I've learnt: Make a List - They all seem to be bought by people who use them for a year or two before the realities of poor standard air conditioning, poor ventilation, unassisted steering and general not a lot of fun in traffic see them being used less and less.  Flat batteries compound this further and they get used even less.  A seized brake caliper from lack of use and the owner starts to see it as a money pit rather than a means of channelling their youth and better times.  Expect your new car will have deferred maintenance and many odd jobs to do.  I've found making a list makes sure these jobs are done as quickly and efficiently, you have the right parts on hand as you need them and not redoing work.  Need new front shock absorbers, check the bushes and upgrade the tie rods while you're at it so you only need to do one steering alignment for example.  My red car is currently on Job No. 78, with at least dozen to go before I'll be satisfied.  My white gold 3.2 got to the fifties. Tyres - Nothing makes these cars a bigger dud to drive than a set of old or unsuitable tyres.  The handling will be all understeer or all oversteer with not much in between and no fun at all.   A good set of tyre make these cars very neutral and trustworthy.  The tyres don't have to be expensive.  I'm having great success with Bridgestone Potenza RE003's in standard sizes.  They are also great in the wet.  These cars don't need wide tyres or rims on the street.  They don't have enough power or weight and why destroy that great steering feel that is one of their main attractions anyway. Add some fuses - Take the time to add in line fuses to the ash tray and ventilation control light circuits.  No doubt one of your first jobs will be to replace the old disco stereo head unit,  which will probably result in you disturbing the lamp holder in the ashtray and causing a short that will take years off your life as the cabin fills with smoke Also add one to the front air conditioning blower fan while you're on a roll as I understand they cause a spectacular amount of melted wiring in the frunk when the blower motor seizes. Add 5hp for Free - An amazing number of 3.2's are reassembled with the bottom clamp on the rubber air intake elbow assembled so that the worm housing stops the throttle reaching wide open.  Even the most experienced Porsche specialists fall into this trap.  Simply loosen and swivel the clamp around so that clamp housing is at the rear.  ie so that the screw centreline is across the car rather than running lengthwise.  You'll notice the photos of my car above suffered this problem.  I called my tuner when I saw a photo he'd posted and after 30 seconds work gained 9 real Mainline hp (equivalent to 15 hp on US forums!). A Reasonable Substitution for Face Level Fresh Air - I added a rocker switch between the two AC control knobs on the consul.  This allows me to run the AC blower fan without having the air conditioning compressor running.  With the footwell air vent open and receiving fresh air from the air intake above the bonnet, the AC blower fan then redirects at least some of this air to the dashboard vents.  I used a Narva illuminated rocker switch so that I know when the AC compressor is energised or not when the AC blower is operating.  HOWEVER, before you do this, check your AC thermostat is actually working and cycling the AC on and off at the right temperature.  If the thermostat is working properly it can be adjusted to do the same as described above.  I should have replaced my thermostat first! Better Headlights - Don't bother with higher wattage bulbs and LED's, just install a relay kit like the J West one to improve voltage at the bulbs and make the headlight dimmer switch last longer. K&N Air Filters - There is no greater form of abuse these cars suffer than running one of these filters.  They may work OK if the filter is properly cared for but in my experience that doesn't happen and the filter allows dust into the engine to slowly grind away your rings and contaminate your oil.  If you after cheap horsepower, this isn't a solution.  Run the stock paper one.   (Don't start me on those numb nuts that run no filters or tea strainers on their itb's because it "..looks cool".  No, it doesn't, it just shows you have no idea.) Squeaking Fan Motors - These cars have a large number of fan motors that have oilite style bearings.  After many years the lubricant is lost and the motor will develop a squeak that will drive you crazy.  I have found if you sit the motor in a small container of engine oil overnight that is deep enough to cover most of the bearing but not so deep to contaminate the brushes or the armature, these motors can be successfully saved. Repaint the Fuel Tank - By now the stone guard coating will have lifted around the tank seam and rust taken hold as the foam seal holds moisture.  Left too long and the tank will hole and start leaking.  If the area of stone guard is small, it can be patched with seam sealer and stippled with a shorten bristled paint brush (and a flat palm after it has skinned over) to replicate the original finish.  Where the coating has lifted over larger areas you'll need to reapply new stone guard.  To get the right colour I've been using a water based Whiteknight product from Bunnings that I apply with a small long nap roller that I mix to the right colour.  I have found the colour of the original tank finishes varies from an olive green to grey so there is no one colour I can recommend if you want to retain the original look of your particular car. Obviously not the red car but you get the idea and the resulting finish from the above method.  For the pre G50 cars, I suggest you carry a spare clutch cable. On my '85 I inserted it into a length of vinyl tube from Bunnings and wrapped it around the space saver rim to stop it rattling or being damaged. You may want to replace the fuel pump while the tanks out as they're not that expensive and by now the original will be on borrowed time. Engine Fuel Hoses - The rubber hoses on all these cars will be pretty close to end of life and will leak.  Replace before they leak and start a fire.  Don't forget the short ones on the pressure regulators! Fuel Injectors - They're likely near rooted too.  I've had good success with substituting modern Bosch 4 hole injectors.  Can't recall the part number but all the guff is detailed here: Air Conditioning Not Working As Good As It Should ? -  Replace the two seals on the butterflies either side of the fresh air blower as they will  be no doubt allowing hot air from the plenum to mix with the chilled air making it, ah less chilled when it comes from the vents!  The seals can be easily made from some 4-6mm thick closed cell foam sheeting. Don't be Too Hasty to Replace AC Compressor - These are really easy and cheap to put a new seals kit through to fix the oil leak they eventually develop.  Assuming they are lubricated and not operated when degassed, they seem like they never wear out, just get a leaky front seal. I'll add more as I think of them!

Great tips! agree 1000% on the tires, a set of Potenza 003’s and a proper alignment/corner balance totally transformed my car.. has no idea about the clamp!! Checking ASAP!

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Why does everyone say to upgrade the tie rods? Do the standard ones break or it just a thing to do?

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Seems crazy but it made a massive improvement to the feel of my old Carrera

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The standard tie rod has a rubber insulator built in.  Nothing wrong with this and it's certainly not a weakness.  The "turbo" tie rod simply replaces this rubber bushing with a ball joint that removes any give or isolation of road shock.

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So what is a good road car can turn into a bone shaking/teeth rattling wanna be race car? 😀

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Not quite correct.  This is a sensible mod that gives more accurate steering, better steering feel and does not change the ride at all.

@sydr I'm pleased you have dropped by as I understand you have a 3.4/3.5 with ITB's and a plenum and have recent experience with 2 different cams.  Can you tell us what the cams are and how they compare, particular with regard to street use please?

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Hi Peter, I've been watching your posts with interest and and enjoyment and compliment you for the stuff that you tackle yourself and for the detail that you provide.  Sadly, I can't give you the same level of detail. You are quite right about the engine in my car, it is something quite special.  As is the story behind it. I bought my car new, in 1984.  And I still have that same 911.  I'd always wanted a Porsche, had bought two 944's but was never happy with them but was too nervous to buy a 911.  In those days, all one heard was that a 911 was the car to buy if you wished to depart the road going backwards.  I was always an 'enthusiastic driver' and was nervous that I would be in over my depth.  But I lusted after one, until my wife, fed up with me dreaming about it, said to me "Just do it!"  So I did. I used my car as a daily driver for about 4 or 5 years, and then gradually did more and more track work and I'm sure it has more track/competitive miles than road miles.  When Porsche Cars Australia organised a 4 day competitive event on the Great Ocean Road in which about 180 Porsches competed, I won it outright against modern/new cars even though mine was then about 28 years old.  While these new Porsches had Haltech/Terratrips navigation aids and good gear, I stumped up for a $19.95 electronic egg timer and velcroed it onto the dash.  Velcro strip is there to this day, the egg timer was an el cheapo that failed quite soon after.  Clearly, winning was a tribute to my wife, who was an excellent navigator, and not much to do with my skill as a pilot.  But my 911 was getting very tired.  The motor had never been opened.  That motor never failed, despite the constant pressure that I subjected it to. Eventually I decided to give it a big birthday.  Remember, I'd owned the car since new, so was not concerned about cutting any corners.  I did a lot of research and had an all out special motor built, - that motor was 3.4L with all the good fruit.  I found out about Direct to Head throttle bodies, at that time a new development and ordered them from overseas.  I believe that this was probably the first such engine in Oz.  We used the original crank and rods but 3.4 hi comp pistons/barrels, sexy cam, twin spark, motec, the lot.  It pulled like a train but from the get go the oil pressure was lower than my old motor had been prior to the rebuild.  Go figure.  Engine builder said "She's Good!" and I said "No, it is not!"  Sadly after about a year I was proven right. When the engine let go it was rebuilt with milder cams, GT3 crank and rods (the old ones were ruined when the engine let go) and milder cams.  This new engine is smooth like a turbine, has excellent oil pressure and is now 3.6L.  It is not quite as exciting as the previous engine but is still running like a dream . . . . . I've looked thru the invoices to try to find out the cam series number for both engines but there's nothing in my files, I'm sorry to disappoint you on that score.  You're welcome to inspect the car if you're in Sydney, or I can contact you if I'm in Armidale with it. I recently put the car on historic rego and am using it more for road trips.  It is quite something to have owned a car for so long that having bought it new, you can put it on historic rego.  It is a tribute to the 911 that I've never been bored by it.

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a testament to car and driver. Having recently taken the SC to a track day where it was the oldest car by about 30 years it was certainly the biggest bang for buck in enjoyment factor, and the biggest handful with no driver aids or power steering 🤣 . These older AC cars are such a pure form of driving, I’m so hooked and now starting to look at more track days in the calendar.

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Great story and ownership history!  Who did the work on the engine the second time around?  Or did you entrust it to the same fellow throughout the entire two rebuilds?

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Second engine build was by Michael Newton Automotive. On the subject of Turbo tie rods and tires, my car was delivered with 15" wheels.  Changing to 16" also made a noticeable difference in steering response/handling.  Over the years I've added all sorts of  excellent go faster bits to the suspension and brakes but the two things that gave the most bang for buck and were the easiest to do were the tie rods and wheels/tires.

@sydr It's a tribute to you for owning a car that long! Nice work mate 👍 👏 👏 👏

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Nah mate, not a tribute to me but rather a tribute to a design that is so totally "wrong!" that it always remains interesting and engaging and a challenge to drive competitively.  Always fun, and whenever I slide into the drivers seat, to this day, I get a silly smile.  I did decide to trade it in on a 993, but when I went to Scuderia, cheque book in hand a year before the last 993 was delivered, I was told "Sorry, our entire allocation is sold." At the time I had started reading about a totally revolutionary sports car, one of which the motoring journos were saying "Every car manufacturer should buy one of these and force their chassis engineers to drive it every day." That car was the Series 1 Lotus Elise. I did the math.  I could buy the Elise, keep the 911, and still be ahead in $$$$ terms. What would you do?

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Probably trade in for a GT3 😁 I get what you mean though. I still get a buzz every time I fire up the backdate, yet I only drive it once or twice a month now, so it's a nice change from daily driving a Hiace van 😁

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Sydr, Great story and thank you for telling it.  I think many of us could take a leaf from your book on the subject of contentment and be so much happier as a result.  Thanks again! While searching the archives I came across some photos that you may recognise: That engine that planted the seed for me and no doubt others:

Just tidying up a few things today like the wiring that also gave me the opportunity to show a few more things: A set of aluminium 964 rocker covers seemed a obvious choice since my 3.2, being reasonably late, came with 964 cam carriers anyway.  However still had to drill out the bolt holes as 3.2's have the meaty 8mm mounting studs as opposed to the 6mm on 964's and 993's.  The Nippon Denso coils are held in place with RSR style holders. I removed the LHS header to trim the hot air tube at the front and fit new flex tubes.  I bought these BBE's because they have the generic Porsche outlets giving a wide range of muffler choices, had the 1 5/8 inch primaries (SSI's are a bit small at 1 1/2"), are stainless steel and I thought the hot boxes are quite neat compared to some others.  Just remember to ask for O2 sensor bungs to be installed as these particular headers are generally sold for SC's and earlier cars and the bungs aren't standard fitment. BBE also sell a 3.2 specific header and muffler set but the mufflers are prone to cracking and you only have the choice of one type and dismissed them for that reason.  However Mike D'Silva has been doing some good work with mufflers and if you don't mind a bit of DYI, these 3.2 specific headers would be worth a look as the outlets are wider, giving a bit more room to play. I was pleasantly surprised I managed to pick up some outlet flange gaskets that fit perfectly at Supercheap this arvo. It's not always dirty.  Flashback to late 2017 and the Porsche In Motion display at Newcastle Museum:

Other 3.2/3.4 Engine Builds There were a few engine builds, in additions to Syd's that interested me: Single plug but ITB's with plastic 964 plenum.  The exhaust is a set of 3.2 specific BBE headers that have been modified to work with a modified 997 muffler.  Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/952600-rothsport-itb-3-2-new-build.html Sal Carceller sells MAF conversions for 3.2's and always seems to be involved with interesting builds: He likes DC21 cams for 3.4 builds.  Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/871561-1985-3-4-build-using-maf-279-56-hp-237-63-rwhp.html Another using his MAF: Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/962997-1984-911-3-4-sleeper-hotrod-end.html Interesting discussion on ITB's vs 3.2 Intakes: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/138447-individual-throttle-bodies-vs-flowed-carrera-intake-manifold.html

Here is my 997 Muffler setup... it's a tad loud!

The important engine bit starts at 1:40 and gets going in earnest at 2:10 3.4 conversion with ITB's and a 8,000rpm redline.  Gotta love RUF!

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love the sound, Mike, but does it drone?  NOISY is GOOD, but Drone does my head in!

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No, doesn't drone. If you want, I have another 997 muffler you can have for $50 (no pipe work though)

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Thank you, yes please.  for easy contact pse sms or call zero 418 18 zero 418

I just got that new M&k active exhaust and their single inlet muffler. Great sounds from it. And unless you give it the beans not too loud. If you do step on the gas though the sound is glory.

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Since you've posted this, please stop for a second and salute a wonderful woman. Nicki passed away nearly 6 years ago, from Pancreatic Cancer.  She was incredibly courageous, to the end. She was a special person, never complained when I drove too enthusiastically, even when I made her somewhat carsick - which is what was happening in the photograph which was taken making rather rapid progress along the Great Ocean Road while she was working with the navigation notes and the egg timer and calculating the variance between the Porsche speedo and reality.  She was quiet, thoughtful and observant, considerate (Opposites attract). Somewhat shy.  An amazing mother.  She encouraged me to do things I certainly would not have done without her back up.  Like, buy the 911 - and some other self indulgent purchases, and never expected something for herself because I'd bought something for myself.  At the end of every trip, as we rolled into our driveway she would always quietly say "Thank you for bringing me home safely." I had a honeymoon that lasted nearly 40 years and I never failed to be proud of her.  My life was richer because of her.

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How much was that? Would be interested in a sound clip..

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PM sent

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$1400 in total, i'll get a sound clip and will post it up.

Datalogging Had my first go at using the datalogging function in my ecu today.  I was interested to see how much power I was leaving on the table with using the stock air cleaner.  Discovered I've got a lot to learn on using the graphic package to present data managed to something together! Using 3rd gear roll ons from about 2000rpm to apply enough loading over a reasonable period to get useful almost steady state data.  A few interesting points: Injector duty cycle is around 60%, ignition timing is only around 15 degrees at that loading and rpm, very conservative AFR. The pressure drop over the air filter and throttle body is about 16kPa (2.3psi!  My absolute is already down 1.2psi to start with due to my elevation) which is heaps and worth exploring further.  (Yeah, yeah settle down you ITB guys!)  Next outing I'll do 3 runs: with air filter complete, without lid but with filter taped in place and then without both lid and filter and see what the differences are.  Benny reckons there is about 3 Mainline rwhp in it.  Will the sans filter and lid run indicate a bigger throttle body would be worth while?  Let's see! Probably a better explanation of what I'm doing.

ECU Upgrades on "Old" Engines Yeah, I won't be going back to Motronic

I really like their presentation. Very well spoken, easy to understand (sort of). So you think you would use Haltech next time?

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Hey Peter, is this fan fix what you did on the blower motor that sits at the back of the frunk? Mine is squeaking and I'm just wondering why you didn't split it like the comments in the following link.  Was it an issue of removing ducts, cable linkages and those little round clips that sent you down another path?  I'd be interested in your comments before I tackle the project. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/899739-fresh-air-blower-squeal-fix.html

Hi Peter, That's a good link you added. Yes, we're lucky that all the housings are easy to split to access the motors and I have been doing that.  However I've never been able to remove the press fit plastic squirrel cages from the shafts because of a fear of breaking them so that has made soaking the motor bearing bush adjoining the cage a bit of a challenge! I did both ventilation motors in my 993 by soaking in an ice cream container of oil and gave the cages a good wipe down with rag to remove the oil before reassembly.  The smell of engine oil in the cabin dissipated after a couple of weeks! With the ventilation flap seals, I made new ones using this sheet foam rubber: https://www.jaycar.com.au/self-adhesive-sound-absorbing-foam/p/AX3662 I've used this rubber to make body seals and other bits and pieces.  Very handy!

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I agree.  Haltech are masters of marketing and are spending a lot of money on improving their profile and importantly their firmware.  They have recently bought Adaptronic for added intellectual capability.  Interesting thread here: http://performanceforums.com/forums/forum/general/general-discussions/209347-adaptronic-bought-by-haltech?67315607-Adaptronic-bought-by-Haltech= I attended Haltech's 2 day tuners workshop which I found very worthwhile and would certainly consider using a Haltech in a future build. However my tuner prefers Link to Haltech and as I learn M1 Tune it's going to be hard not to go Motec again, even if just for the convenience not having to learn something new. Trying to compare ECU's is a bit like trying to agree on the best religion, or heaven forbid, the best engine oil!

What's Losing the AFM on 3.2 is Worth? 12 Dynojet rwhp according to Steve Wong: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/636516-3-2-dyno-tests-airboxes-mufflers.html What's Extrudehoning the Intake Manifold and Bigger Throttle Body Worth? 7 Dynojet rwhp according to Steve Wong: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/126005-3-2-intake-mods-pics-info-good-read.html

Worth posting and watching again:

Bigger Throttle Body Worth It? Appears to be but by how much I can't seem to find any one who knows for sure.  This appears to be the closest thread to knowing something factual.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1015032-3-2-throttle-body-question.html However the pressure drop I measured in my data log (above) suggests there's a few hp's to be exploited.

I didn't realise that Steve Wong did this for stock 3.2 and provides a modded chip too. Maybe send him an email direct, he was pretty good when I bought a chip for my 964. http://www.911chips.com/engine.htm

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Mike, What a devilishly simple idea!  Might just do that! EFI Hardware in Victoria offer this service for $330. https://www.efihardware.com/products/1724/enlarge-throttle-body-fly-by-wire If I wasn't keen to keep the stock look I'd just go DBW and plastic 964/993 intake plenum: https://www.efihardware.com/products/3066/bosch-74mm-electronic-throttle-body or ITB's for that matter!

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Doh'! I don't know where I got the notion the ambient absolute air pressure here is 101kPa!  Too much watching national weather reports maybe. Doing some data runs today had the MAP showing 90.8kPa engine off so the pressure drop across the air filter and throttle body is no where near my estimates of last week.  Today showed the pressure drop to be between 5.1kPa (Standard airbox lid and filter) to 3.8kPa (No lid/no filter and surprisingly Lid with extra holes with filter) at WOT at around 6100 to 6300rpm .  At best that's a pressure drop of 0.55psi. (There was an effect on Lambda but not much and certainly not a concern as I'm very very safely rich.) So drilled lid it is!  The holes have been discretely placed so it still looks standard unless you look really hard. Now begs the question if a larger throttle body would actually provide a measurable benefit.

@Redracn Red, Have you any advice on sizing throttle bodies?

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I haven't been following this thread  so I am probably a bit in the dark about what is going on. I did just look at the logging screen shot above and the MAP pressure and had a good giggle as it was a very flat trace which is not what you get with airbox/filter restrictions. You expect to see the MAP pressure drop as the airflow increases. I am concerned that Motec is in trouble as they have not released a new product in over 5Years which is forever in a fast changing hi tech industry and a lot of the products are now old and stale. M1 was designed around 2006  so even it is showing its age. Even the colour dashes are just an ADL3 with a third party plug in graphics processor added to run the colour LCD. "What size throttle bodies?" Or do you mean a single throttle body? Now there's a loaded question. ITB are a tuned resonant part of the system so as usual the answer is that it depends!. Heads, cams, rev range etc. Every bit needs to work with the other bits to give the best result. The best source of this information is from someone who has been there and done that with real data/results to back up their expertise. When it comes to power and dyno results the old saying "the BS stops when the flag drops" about somes it up. My advice is that unless you are just happy to have a bit of a play and the final results are not that important do it right once and go to an expert on your engine.  Yes I know there are many so called self proclaimed experts out there and finding a genuine one is near impossible. 😟 Now for a TB that feeds a plenum it just needs to be big enough to have minimal pressure drop across it. What pressure drop is acceptable? Well that depends too.. I would expect something around 75mm would give good results on a 3.2 but that depends on what feeds it and what is on the other side. I.e no use being bigger than what follows or precedes it. The less sudden cross section area changes the better for air flow. Now you need some CFD calculations or a good old fashion flow bench to evaluate all aspects of the inlet path. I did a check the other day on my rally cars stock air filter. At full noise it dropped 9KPa.  Put in a K&N and the drop was under 1KPa being a Turbo it did not change the end result much but in a NA it is a huge gain. Lesson! Air filters matter especially on a NA engine.

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Given that Porsche has used the same 74mm DBW Bosch throttle bodies on all the following cars with capacities from 2.7 to 3.8 litres, they agree with you! Porsche MY06-09 - 911 Carrera, Carrera (997), Carrera 4, Carrera 4 (997), GT2 & more Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY05-05 - 911 Carrera (997) Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. Manufacturer Body Code: 997 Only for cars with option M620 e-accelerator. Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. Manufacturer Body Code: 996 MY05-08 - 911 Carrera 4S, Carrera 4S (997S), Carrera S, Carrera S (997S), Targa 4S & more Not for cars with option X51 Power Kit Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY99-05 - 911 (996), 40TH ANNIVERSARY Edition, Carrera 2 (996), Carrera 4 (996), Carrera 4S & more Only for cars with option M620 e-accelerator. Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY15-15 - 918 Spyder Also use (Qty.) (1) 9A1 110 319 00 seal. MY07-12 - Boxster Base, LIMITED, RS60 Spyder, S, S BLACK Edition & more Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY13-16 - Boxster Base, Black Edition, GTS, S, Spyder Also use (Qty.) (1) 9A1 110 319 00 seal. MY09-09 - Boxster S Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY04-18 - Cayenne Base, Platinum Edition Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY06-12 - Cayman Base, R, S Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY14-16 - Cayman Base, Black Edition, GT4, GTS, S Also use (Qty.) (1) 9A1 110 319 00 seal. MY09-09 - Cayman S Also use (Qty.) (1) 997 110 319 00 seal. MY15-18 - Macan GTS, S, Turbo Also use (Qty.) (1) 948 110 144 02 seal. MY11-16 - Panamera Base, 4, 4 Edition, Edition Also use (Qty.) (1) 946 110 144 01 seal. So one of these looks the ticket and can be bought locally from EFI Hardware for about $260 AUD https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/electronic-throttle-body-74mm-bore Note: even the generic motorsport ones have a Porsche part number! Even the mounting PCD is the same as the standard 3.2 so should be an easy bolt on. https://www.raceworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LR-RWORKS-DATA-TBO-500.pdf I seem to recall Martin's been down this path before with DBW: https://porscheforum.com.au/topic/4748-91130-hotrod-yeah-again/?do=findComment&comment=140748 https://porscheforum.com.au/topic/4748-91130-hotrod-yeah-again/?do=findComment&comment=135926

Another cool engine build.  Old but still worth a read. I wouldn't mind a ITB with common plenum setup too if I had some spare cash to lubricate my way (further) down the slippery slope! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/553991-tale-one-insane-911-motor.html

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i have the adaptors for jenvey ITB to 964 intake under my bench somewhere..

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Sam, Comments like that don't help me you know! 😊 Afforded a SC owner a drive of it yesterday after the monthly C'n C. He came back with a grin.

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People who have never driven one usually do 😁

Not a 3.2 but a favourite video that is well worth multiple views:

Excellent

c'est magnifique (and that's about the extent of my knowledge of French 🙂 )

I've had the model of this car for a few years solely because I liked the look of it. Great to see the history of it and watch the video again, yet the best part is to watch the original driver in his 70's driving like he stole it!

That video reminded me that Grant's Grp 4 build was also an inspiration at the time. Based on a UK 3.2, the engine modifications are surprisingly modest I think compared to the rest of the car. I think that was deliberate to showcase what can be done with the standard engine without incurring to much cost as most 3.2 owners appear to be tight arses to the extreme when it comes to modifications: 3.4L piston and barrel set to run 10.3:1 compression ratio Remapped Motronic ECU set up to run on 98 RON fuel Custom cams Extrude honed manifold with larger throttle body Lightweight valve spring and retainers Complete rebuild right down to the crank with blueprinted assembly https://autohaushamilton.com.au/news/the-autohaus-hamilton-911sc-group-4 I've been interested to know what cam's he used but that's never been published from what I can see.  Actually he's been pretty coy about the engine full stop!  This video somewhat explains the commercial imperative behind the coyness:

Run of out room in your Guarantee and Maintenance booklet to show servicing records? You're not alone and for me the prospect of paying a $125USD for another booklet wasn't that appealing. Many places like Autohaus just staple a couple of new pages that they make up themselves into your book so they can continue to record  services but the form they use reminds me of my old primary school reports. So with a bit of playing around in Excel,  a sheet of A4 beige coloured paper that after printing can be cut in half to give the right size, gives me another 24 blank spaces. So at one service a year (< 10,000km), I'm fixed up to 2043! Being Excel allows most people to fiddle with the size and edit to their hearts content if they wish. Maintenance Record Porsche.xlsx Fetching info...

Who's Benny? Ben Perry from Benchmark Solutions in Gateshead, just south of Newcastle: https://www.facebook.com/BenchmarkSolutionsAU/?tn-str=k*F In the last week one car he tunes won the NSW Rally Championship and another won it's class at the World Time Attack Challenge at Eastern Creek so he knows his stuff. Andre interviewed him at last year's ATAC about the car that was successful this year: While WRX's and Evo's are his bread and butter, he has tuned about half a dozen 911's now, including a  2018 Gunnedah Week of Speed class winning turbo 911 and is interested in doing more because he likes them.  Would I recommend him?  Yes.

Two years ago a run up the Oxley Highway was the inspiration for the modifications described in this thread.  On the weekend I had the chance to retrace the run with most of the same people and many of the same cars.  No Lambo this time though but had a Mk1 GT3 as a substitute.  This time I found I had enough power to keep up with the modern cars, especially if I went down to 2nd for the 35 kph advisory corners.  The engine was tractable and responsive and with the air flow modification to the airbox lid, now has a glorious induction roar above 3,500rpm.  It went well enough for my purposes that I'm now not in any great hurry to enlarge the throttle body. Only issue experienced was a missing throttle return spring that often resulted in a high and inconsistent idle speed.  A call to James today should have another ready to fit later this week.  Getting RBT'ed with the engine at 2,200 was a little too conspicuous for my tastes! The Potenzas RE003's still impress.  When warm they work great and take some effort to get hot and squirmy.  The rears were well behaved, always progressive and gave no surprises.  Many use R spec tyres but I don't think that's a great idea on the street.  I want plenty of warning of loss of traction!  Plus I like driving in the rain and don't particularly like noisy tyres either.  In the tighter corners particularly, the lack of tyre width, caster and camber show up clearly compared to modern cars.  But for an essentially 56 year old design it's not to shabby at all and a hoot to drive. Even the air con worked OK! 😊

Ben has also tuned my last 3 turbo 911's. Every single one of them has won its class in the 1,000mtr events.

Just another 3.2 to 3.4 conversion but with 13 times (Yes, I calculated it!) my budget. 'tis nice though! Marlon mentions Kinsler throttle bodies that appears to be an alternative to Jenvey and AT Power https://kinsler.com/Shop/2016/04/30/kinsler-gt-porsche-itbs/#more-21840

A bit of a write up on Goldberg and the engine here: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2019/06/eotw-air-cooled-flat-six-twin-plug-3-4l-porsche-911-engine/ On this 911 engine, Goldberg used titanium connecting rods, rockers and a straight cut intermediate gear all from Pauter. The engine also has CP pistons, Mahle Motorsport cylinders, Dema Elgin cams, Kinsler injection, and a MoTec M130 ECU and a MoTec PDM30. The rest of the parts in the engine are Porsche

Installing the missing throttle return spring wasn't too arduous.  Still a pain in the arse as it is located under the intake manifold but better than I expected. The AFM delete tube 3D printed by Benny.  I replaced the airbox as the one on it had a couple of broken tabs and I happened to have a spare that I bought to modify but didn't need to in the end. A few discretely bored holes in the air box lid reduced the pressure drop at WOT to a similar level to no air filter at all.

And a pillow with a pretty pink pillow case in case you need a nanny nap half way through.  You think of everything Peter

Guys in this thread seem very informed. Does anyone know of a good suspension place in Melbourne? Am planning to get some Kw v3 ‘s put into my 3.2 along with refreshed bushings. I normally get my work done at Porsche Melbourne but suggest they will baulk at doing something so far from stock.

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café, I can't help but reckon @hugh and @Harvs11 would give you the good oil. I'm interested in what you do to yours as I plan to do a bit of a tidy up of my suspension in the future.  All I've done to date is turbo tie rods, Bilstein's and rear torsion bar bushes.  I've kept the standard ride height as I don't want to be fearful of driveways, cattle grids and gravel roads. @Tips has recently done a fair bit of work to his and it would be interesting to hear the detail of this work and the results. I recall there was a good thread or two on the 3.2 KW upgrade on Pelican Forum: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/977089-kw-suspension-74-89-911-a.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1020341-kw-v3-adjustable-dampers-g-model.html

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I’ve got nothing to add here.  I’m still running original springs and dampers.

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Thanks for the links mate, some great reading in here.  It seems the setup and install are just as important as the products, would be great to find a porsche suspension guru in melbourne who can help get the best out of it.

Brake Upgrades? Everything you need to know plus more: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/159802-ultimate-brake-upgrade-page.html I think 3.2's are pretty good standard if everything is in good condition.  My old white gold 3.2 had great brakes with wonderful feel.  They had been extensively (and expensively!) rebuilt just before I bought it because one caliper seizing due to lack of use.  The red car isn't as good so I have some work to do. There is some interesting stuff on this website like what size Ribe socket you need to disassemble the front calipers on a 3.2.  Yes, a R6 is correct from the man in the back row. https://www.pmbperformance.com/video.html Wow, probably the best caliper rebuild "how to" I've ever seen: https://www.pmbperformance.com/brakehowto.html Strut Braces? Probably not as effective as you think for a torsion bar car on street tyres.  Interesting read here with some quantitively testing rather than the usual forum hearsay: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1018553-strut-bar-benefit-testing-before-after.html

Horsepower Wars or Just Wishful Thinking? I've been following this thread with interest over the last few weeks with some amazing dyno numbers coming from various 3.2SS and 3.4 builds: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1043400-3-4-dyno-chart.html With differences between corrected and uncorrected hp figures of 40 and 50hp, a mix of engine and chassis dynos using undisclosed correction factors for drivetrain losses, it all becomes a bit unconvincing in the end.  Not saying a wild cam and 6 ITB's isn't the way to big power but with no reference to reality its impossible to compare engines. I've noticed that these high US horsepower claims often discourage local engine builders from posting their dyno runs even though Mainline dynos, albeit with their very conservative readings, are very common and give very consistent information.  I think that's a pity as it would be very useful to see the effect of modifications on each other's engine builds, particularly the shape and area under the torque curve . Andre gives his take on dyno numbers: This thread got to a point where even the other Yanks were saying bullshit!  A couple interesting points make it worth a read: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1046284-promised-3-8-dyno-graph-here-2.html

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That was terrific to watch the car sounded amazing . I rode that section of the rally with some mates this is us at the start . Thanks for posting it brought back some memories

Didn't know that much about FI and tuning before all this started, except for rebuilding a CIS in a Volvo in the late eighties... this is actually the only reason I've never considered buying a SC! Sal Carceller recommended these Greg Banish books which I've found useful to understand the basics:

Combustion Chambers I think I've already described the chambers on these cars as archaic (actually I think I used the word shithouse!) and am surprised how little development has gone into improving them over the years, particularly when you consider the megadollars that go into these 911 engine builds. We seem to be very conservative and maybe even a bit snobby to even think our beloved Mezger engine isn't that perfect after all.  It amazes me that we are still generally reluctant to twin plug even though it's relatively simple and inexpensive with modern ECU's and direct fire nowadays. So I was pleasantly surprise when I came across Henry's thread with his "peanut" style cambers and the interesting photo of a 962 head on the 3rd page showing that Porsche themselves were heading down the same path: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/434823-old-school-twist-3.html Now I run hot and cold with Henry and some of his theories and beliefs but I've gotta admit he's pretty successful at what he does.  Would never use his head studs in any of my engines though! I think it is valuable to keep an open mind and see what others are doing.  I've already alluded to my admiration of modern Ducati engines like the Testastretta and the 1000DS engine in particular as an example of how a 2 valve air cooled engine should be.  Looking at the combustion chamber on this engine shows old Henry is on the right path and everyone else just sheep in a flock.... Note: the "port" on the right of the head is not the intake but actually a housing for the camshaft.  A toothed belt runs up through the fin cut outs EDIT: Great article here from Kevin Cameron on this topic: https://www.cycleworld.com/what-does-it-take-to-achieve-fast-efficient-combustion/

I would say shit house is being nice.

Yes indeed. Definitely some wheel spin in higher gears now where there never was any before. I like how it just keeps pulling all the way up without getting breathless, and you can see that in the last dyno, too.

7 years!!!!  Is it that long ago! Thanks for posting David! I like how you have tracked your modifications over the years with dyno runs on the same dyno.  Something I wished I did better. What induction set up are you running?

Hi Pete. It only feels like yesterday I'm running all standard 3.2 induction. I always feel like induction work is a little (big?) project I'm leaving in my back pocket for a rainy day. You'd be pleased to know the next step is getting the larger 41mm OD SSIs. And they will come with a dyno run, too. So all those folks wondering what the larger size SSIs do for a car like this will wonder no more. I also promise it won't be seven years between updates this time.

David, Is PR Tech reflashing your chip to adjust the timing and fueling tables?

Yes. Paul (the P in PR Tech) is quite the Electrical Engineer guru. He's also rumoured to have built the electrics for Brian May's guitar

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Interesting.. I didn't know anyone in Australia was re writing the old eprom chips

I need to replace those discs. Might paint those wheels while I'm at it. Oh, the back of the wheels are pretty grotty with all that old wheel weight tape residue.  Might paint the backs as well. That caliper's not wearing the pads evenly.  Looks like I have a sticky piston.  If I rebuild one caliper, I need to do the other too. Those calipers are pretty grotty.  Might blast them while they're off.  Actually, might re-zinc them while they're apart.  Better yellow passivate for the original finish too.  If I do the calipers, need to do the pad pins and the anti-rattle plates too.  What's the original finish for the Ribe bolts? Might replace the hoses while I'm at it. Oh, those hubs are pretty grotty, might vapor blast those too. BUT I draw the line at replacing the hub dust caps!  Gotta stop somewhere!

So is the pic after the fact or someone else's representation of your intentions?

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Finished and bled Phil! Just have to paint the outer petals of the wheels and also thought I'd get new tyres while I'm at it as the Bridgestone 4 for the price of 3 deal ends tomorrow......

Slipery slope that 'while you're in there'...hey @Peter M Nice job! 👌