LN Engineering Deep Sump on Cayman R PDK

I drive a 2012 Cayman R with PDK , do a fair bit of DEs and like many I've run into issues with controlling engine oil temps. I've already installed a BGB diff cooler that certainly helped, but did not fully mitigate the issue. I am now onto phase two which includes a number of items from LN Engineering: 2.5L deep sump kit, 3.8L oil heat exchanger with power steering circuit deleted, stand alone power steering cooler kit, 160 degree thermostat. I am doing the install in phases: deep sump first, then heat exchanger + PS cooler, lastly I'll do the thermostat. While I do the mods, I'll track the impact on oil temps -- I have an AIM Solo DL wired into the CAN bus so I can track real time temps throughout the track sessions. I installed the pan myself a few weekends ago -- install is fairly straight forward (this is the second time I've installed a deep sump on a 9A1) and LN Engineering provided great support when I needed to verify assembly of the oil pick-up tube extension. Quality of the pan is nothing short of spectacular; excellent machining, perfect fit, and the oil tube extension design is far superior to other brand I've installed. Nice addition is 2 x LN Engineering magnetic drain plugs are included. I've only done a single event (Sears Point) so I do not have much data thus far, but I can report I never saw more than 239 degrees on oil temp which is a first. That said, it was a relatively cool day, with heavy traffic. More events in the near future, including Sears Point June 16-17; will post more data then. Now to some eye candy:

That is one good looking, sexy, oil sump pan!

I'm interested in hearing your results. Have you undertaken any airflow mods to improve coming? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thus far, no mods to improve airflow. There are a few tricks I've heard about but I've not seen much posted about it. Any suggestions? Cheers, DJM

From what I've gathered going to the GT3 front clip with the proper radiator fitment is worthwhile but expensive (e.g. replacing fenders plus all the obvious stuff). I've tried wiring the front fans to run full time with a switch with little if any benefit so you can skip that. My next attempt will be similar to what BGB does. Remove the the front driving lights and open the door area up while timing the inner guides to complement the new shape. Shawn Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Right, the fans 'trick' has no impact on a tracked car -- the speed of driving moves more air than the fans. I am not willing to go the route of the GT3 front clip at this point. I am certainly interested in the BGB-style airflow mod, but was not sure how to proceed on this. Do you know of a DIY how-to for this? Thanks, DJM

Surprisingly the fan mod made quite a difference on my 996 so I figured I'd give it a try at minimal expense. I've never seen a DIY, but I don't think there's much to it. Remove the light and replace it with a equivalent resistor to avoid warning lights. Then remove the plastic surround that fits the light. I figure at that point the parts of the ducting to trim will be fairly obvious but I heard it's a bit of a hack job. BGB said they'd sell me trimmed ducts but when I tried to buy then the emails dried up. Doesn't seem like rocket science but may require some mesh to cover the enlarged space and hide some of the hacking. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Another weekend at Sears Point and good results with oil temps. Much warmer this weekend, especially Saturday afternoon where temps were in the mid-80s. I was able to drive quite a bot harder this event as I am no familiar with the track and despite pushing harder and the higher temps I only saw 241 as my peak oil temp. I do not have back-back date for Sears Point using the OEM pan or the previous deep sump I had, but based on experiences at many other tracks, I am seeing about 10-15 degrees reduced oil temps. Previously, I'd see the max oil temp slowly creep-up each lap: 230s, 240s, 250s...then I'd back off and allow things to cool down a bit. Thus far, I've not needed to back-off my driving due to oil temps. Good signs, thus far. Will post more data after Laguna on July 6/7. Cheers, DJM

Thanks for sharing your preliminary results. I explored the opening of the radiator inlets this weekend. The steps I listed above are essentially correct. The resistance of the light is 27.5kohm. After removing the bumper cover, unclip the plastic cover on the marker light and the fog light. Then unclip the headlight washer body if you have them. Now you can remove the two screw holding the marker light (after unplugging it). Then do the same for the fog light. Now you can unclip the plastic housing from the bumper cover. It turns out there's a lot more support in the cover than I anticipated. Removing that support to open up the area looks irreversible. At this point I stopped for the time being. If you push forward you can see how much of the air duct you'll need to trim. Ideally you'll also construct an extension to match up to the newly opened bumper cover. Pictures to follow but Tapatalk is acting up. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Pictures to support the above description.

Here's what I did:

I think LN sells premade ducts for this purpose. Seems pricey but if they come with good instructions it would be worth it to me. https://lnengineering.com/products/...m/products/brs-parts-and-upgrades/cooling/brs-987-oversized-radiator-ducts.html

Those look nice! I don't think the price it too bad, I easily spent a day modifying mine.

Those do look pretty nice... Did you notice a measurable improvement after opening things up? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk