09' Cayman 2.9 engine issues after replacing shifter cables WTH

Hey guys, new here. 2 months ago my girlfriend was driving our Cayman and became a shifter cable victim. Stuck in 6th. No biggie, we towed it home and we ordered a set of Numeric Racing cables . This week I finally had time to replace them myself (car sat for a month or 2, end of September-ish to December). Now, all we did was the cables and the issues Im having are completely unrelated to the cables but I thought I would mention some history. After replacing the cables I lowered the car off jack stands and ran it. Now I notice a slight ticking noise from the passenger side bank that increases with RPM that it's never done before. I begin to worry. Shortly after I notice this a code is thrown and I scanned it with my pocket reader (not the best unit so if anyone can suggest a better reader for our cars that would be great! - Ordered Durametric ) and I show a misfire on cylinders 1-2-3. I thought maybe bad fuel. I shut the car off and cleared the code. BEFORE starting the car again it gave me JUST the P0303 code and won't go away. This is with the key on, engine OFF. So there should be no code yet. I started the car again and the other misfire codes did not come back. ONLY the cylinder 3 code. I have not tried swapping coils around to see if the misfire moves but I think that's my next step. (Is it possible for the computer to detect a bad coil with the key on and shut fuel off to a cylinder? Because i could see that causing a noise and a misfire running and not running). Also the spark plugs were done about 4-5 months ago so roughly 3000km's. But first I disconnected the battery to see if it was just a glitch... More problems. Now I have a PSM failure and the windows will not go back up when opening and closing the doors (both sides). (FIXED - ...idiot. I just had to do the relearn process for the windows by putting them all the way down and then holding the buttons up for 3 seconds. PSM goes away after driving a short distance and doesn't come back on. Likely another relearn feature that needs to read wheel speed sensors.) These are both normal issues after a dead or disconnected battery) Hopefully some of you guys can help haha. Like I said the shifter cables have nothing to do with the coil packs but I thought maybe someone had the same issues with ticking and a misfire that exsists even with the engine off.

Moving the coils around is a good way to check for a bad one, as you have said. Before you dig in too deep, though, make sure your battery is good. If the voltage is low that can cause all kinds of problems.

Good call on the battery , it sat for awhile but we were pretty good about starting it every couple days. Battery showed 11.8v which is low, it should should 12.6 fully charged. Off to buy a charger now...hopefully its the misfire that is causing the ticking (can't see that happening but here's hoping).

Its normal to get a PSM code after disconnecting the battery . Usually goes away after driving about a mile.

Your stock cables had a rubber hose covering them. Surprisingly, it's for noise suppression - without them, the cables pick up high frequency noise and sound like tappets. If you haven't reused the original hose, you can get 3/8" silicone vacuum line hose, slice it lengthwise, and use it to quieten the cables.

This is not the cables. It changes with engine speed and I've checked and checked again with the engine covers off that they are not vibrating or rubbing anything. Today I finally installed the battery after charging it completely outside of the car on a bench. I have not started the engine yet, and as soon as I plug my code reader in I still get a cylinder 3 misfire code. So I think I'm going to take the RR wheel off and swap the coil pack from 3 to another cylinder. The bank with cylinders 1-3 is the passenger side or RIGHT correct? (Canadian/US car obviously).

If you have a misfire or coil pack problem that one thing. But the Numeric cables without sheathing seem to act as a two dimensional antenna and pick up high frequency noise (e.g. tappet sounds) from the engine compartment and transmit into the passenger compartment. Silicone hose blocks that pick up. I saw this directly with my installation. Bern

I think I'll throw some silicone hose on them to be sure. Silcone is cheap anyways.

Update: So I swapped coil pack 3 and 2 to see if the problem moved (without even starting the car) and it did not. Next I unplugged all 3 coils and turn the key on to see if i got misfire codes on all 3 cylinders - I did not. So my conclusion there is that the car does not "look" for the coil packs in the system. It'll detect running misfires only as far as I can tell. (Just some back ground info: I work on German built Liebherr cranes and this is how their system worked, it checks for each sensor at every start up to see if its missing or not. I thought there might be an off chance that this way of doing things in a German trend but apparently not or at least not for the coil packs on our cars) Next I started the engine with the coil packs swapped to see if running it made a difference. Nope. Still cylinder 3 misfire. I should also mention that without the code telling me there is a misfire I wouldn't be able to tell. It runs just as smooth as it did before. No CEL, I'm stumped. I guess I'll have to wait until Durametric shows up :/ I'm beggining to think this is a history code my reader is reading and it's not good enough to delete it and its a software issue within my reader. Ticking still exsists though and that still worries me.

I think those codes stay around until cleared. I think you mentioned clearing the code in an earlier post. So maybe your code reader doesn't do it correctly with Porsche DMEs. I know it works with Durametric - I cleared misfires on my 2.9L. In my case the codes soon came back after a few minutes running. But misfires were only one of the symptoms that something was horribly wrong. Engine ran and sounded like crap and leaked coolant. Long story (off-topic) = new engine. I'm pretty sure that isn't the case for you.

So Durametric showed up...it found no codes. However when I go into actual values, it doesn't work. Say, if I choose engine rpm to monitor it says 51rpm running or not. If I choose misfire dectection cylinder 3 the timer just stops and doesn't display anything. Same with engine temp, oil temp etc. I am getting quite fed up with this at this point. Anyone else have issues with Durametric not working correctly?

I don't use mine that often (in fact so infrequently that I have to re-learn it each time), but when needed - it's never failed me. It even runs fine on my very slow (by today's standards) and old netbook. Contact them - maybe its a bad cable. Did you try running the full diagnostics? If some systems work and others don't - it would not seem to be a cable issue. BTW, the s/w version I have is a couple years old. Never bothered to update it since most of the newer changes are for 981s .

I have an '11 987.2 base Cayman . My Durametric doesn't properly read the engine module, no overrun data and other missing info. Durametric sent me a couple files to select and run that gave me overruns but not other info. They gave up trying to help without fixing the problem (poor service...I don't recommend Durametric at all). Sounds like you're having the same issues with their unit.

Small update in case anyone was having the same issues Durametric still isn't working, I need to take a video of it not working and send it to them so they can see. The lifter noise is completely gone after letting it warm up and has never came back since. The numeric racing cables feel great but the shifter still has excessive play (the transmission linkage is where I've found the play to be) so not sure what to do about that.

I've had similar issues with my Durametric but support has been responsive for the most part. I don't have a resolution yet but they have at least been responsive - the delay is on my part at this point. I am disappointed with the Durametric reader as I expect more for $300. It does not read actual values and returns errors like O2 sensor failure etc but I have no CEL and the car runs fine. I really expected the Durametric to be useful in diagnostic so I could at least to to the shop with some knowledge of the issue if I was not able to do the repair myself but I don't see it providing that service at this point. It is basically useless since I cannot get actual values and cannot trust what it reports.