I am about to undertake repairing my
Cayman
's passenger side furthest front subframe mount from a cross-threading "incident"
Shown here in the bottom left furthest hole out:
Torque on this bolt appears to be 75 ft-lbs, less than the longer bolt right next to it which is over 100 ft-lbs.
I have a few questions. I assume this subframe is made of aluminum?
My plan is to replace the M12 1.50 mount with a TIME-SERT of the same size since that is the Porsche approved method (no HeliCoil and larger bolts!).
Seems like a steel insert into aluminum isn't a big deal. But after stumbling on another thread for a rear sub frame issue, it appears in the rear at least Porsche sells little clip on nuts seperatley for this exact issue (as seen above this subframe mount here
https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showpost.php?p=482772&postcount=6
).
Anyone know if such a thing exists for the front? Other more difficult ways to repair this would be I assume grinding off the captive nut (if it has one) on the reverse with the subframe out of the car, or replacing the entire subframe, but I believe a TIME-SERT will work just as well and pretty easy to do.
Side note, for anyone doing the sway bar bushings, or removal of the sway bar, be sure you line up the subframe EXACTLY as it came off, there is some slop in it and easy to cross thread the bolts going back in. I plan to unbolt the entire subframe and re-center it before doing the TIME-SERT. Most sway bar articles do not mention that you can indeed mess up the alignment of the car due to the slop in the subframe mounts, which will require an alignment, I can attest my steering wheel is slightly off with the subframe being a few mm's off.
Please chime in if you've done subframe work on the 987
I have dropped / lowered my front subframe 3 times thus far and each time the alignment has not changed even 1/10 degree; nor has my steering wheel shifted from center. I'm surprised to read that yours changed, but it may have changed because you did not align the bolts properly. The key is to start all bolts a few turns only, then after all are started, lightly thread them to finger tight only, then torque as you would a cylinder head, center bolt first, then alternate left and right working your way to the outside bolts.
To answer your question, any fastener rated to the required torque value will work. You could even drill out the cross threaded nut-sert and use a regular nut behind it if necessary. The fasteners that
Porsche
used are chosen simply for easy of assembly while building the cars.
well I lucked out. Didn't need to do a TIME-SERT. The aluminum subframe just needed a M12-1.5 tap run through it once to clean up the threads. All back together with blue thread locker.
If you think you've cross threaded the aluminum subframe, try the tap, it will either be a M12-1.5tap or M14-1.5tap depending on which hole.
Thanks for the advice, and I'm glad to hear you got it worked out without too much trouble. :cheers:
Hi there
I'm joining this thread years late after searching the net for any guidance on dropping the front subframe on a 987. I have to either repair or replace it.
For some reason the links above don't want to work now (I'm in the UK maybe thats it). There doesn't seem to be anything on YT... is there anyone out there who has any guidance, particularly on leaving the hoses in place and how to support anything else like the fuel tank, the suspension is easy. Thanks in anticipation
This is from the link above. I doubt it will be much help.
OK, I have a replacement coming in for $50, just in case. New was $680 from ECS so skipping for now. With that insurance I'll take a shot of spreading it which I 'think' is the problem. When removing the diagonal support those two studs pointing down were pinched toward each other preventing removal. The other studs along the diagonal were centered. Based on that I don't think I should pull one arm away using another part of the car as the anchor. Also, the actual machined surface for the LCA connection is pretty far up into the legs where there is some additional structural fins supporting it. If it was lower down I wouldn't hesitate as it has a little more spring. I may noodle out a spreader that might be strong enough but I was completely wasted and disappointed having missed my deadline. Fresher head today.
I also looked into the captured nut bushing that is turning and it looks like it may be part 999 048 004 002, threaded bushing, which I can't find anywhere for sale. Must be a body part. I'll try and get a camera up into there. There appears to be some sort of sheet metal clip so maybe I can get it out. The nut is above in this pic:
Hi there, many thanks for taking the time to respond. I decided to pass on attempting it my self and took the car to an independent. They replaced the subframe and did a 4 x wheel geo check, a bit painful on the pocket but at least its done and I can forget about it and enjoy the car again.
