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YOUR RESEARCHReplacing Rotors on a '01 911 Coupe
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Replace over
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I changed over to Pagid pads from OEM, the mechanic doing the job told me the devices were shot - and they looked like it (all burnt and corroded looking).
Leading evidence: 'Replace over' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace due' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
You can't turn a Porsche cross-drilled rotor and it wouldn't do any good if you good, if they are being replaced due to cracking (normal).
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Suggestion
If they are somehow damaged goods then I understand, but your use of "due" to be changed, implies a scheduled change-out, not due to damage.
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Suggestion · Original poster
I'm due to replace my rotors on a 2001 911 Coupe and am curious if any (PDF like)instructions are available.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed · Original poster
When I changed over to Pagid pads from OEM, the mechanic doing the job told me the devices were shot - and they looked like it (all burnt and corroded looking).
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I'm due to replace my rotors on a 2001 911 Coupe and am curious if any (PDF like)instructions are available. I'll replace the pads at the same time.
My Porsche buddies tell me that this is a do-it-yourself job and I have the rotors in hand (from Crescent Porsche, $329.75 including freight and they accepted the $100 PCA coupon).
The Chicago dealers here want around $500 to do the job, so I thought I'd give it a shot. Am I nuts?
Any instructions and/or photos would be greatly appreciated. I have a well equipped tool box.
GonzoP1
"Due" to replace rotors???
The only reason I know to replace rotors is because they have already been "turned" down to the minimum. That usually takes me about 100k miles, road, no track.
I didn't read the PDF post, so it may have been covered in there. The Tech at my dealership is pretty good. The Guys at the BMW dealership down the street told me! He says you should always replace the two bolts that hold the caliper to the wheel framework. It is beyond me why this should be done, however he says it should. I guess it could be like using the same stud bolts over again when you rebuild an engine.but I'm still not sure.
Whatduya think??
Why don't you just subscribe to the alldatadiy data? I checked and they have that for the TT so I'm sure they have it for your car. It's only $24.95 per year.
Roy
ps. It's <a href="http://www.alldatadiy.com" target="_blank">www.alldatadiy.com</a>
Just make sure you use anti-seize compound on the caliper bolts, if you ever plan to do this job again.
Also, you may want to get some extra philips head screws that are used to fasten the rotor to the hub. The heads on these babies are easy to strip, so you may want to just replace them. They are one of the cheapest Porsche parts you'll ever buy.
As for the earlier comment on turning the rotors, forget it. You can't turn a Porsche cross-drilled rotor and it wouldn't do any good if you good, if they are being replaced due to cracking (normal).
Karl
Two Questions:
1. What do the vibration dampers look like?
2. Does the rotor get held on by a phillips or an allen/hex screw? If not a hex, then what are the phillips for??
OK.....I've got a third question. The Pagids I now have on the car do not have two small post-looking fixtures on top of each pad ( outside the plane of rotation for the rotor). I guess I don't need them, but what are they?
What makes you think a cross drilled rotor can't be "turned"? And my question remains, what do you mean by "due" to be changed? If they are somehow damaged goods then I understand, but your use of "due" to be changed, implies a scheduled change-out, not due to damage.
And on an 01 yet.
What are the implications of not running with my front and rear dampers or anti-squel devices?
When I changed over to Pagid pads from OEM, the mechanic doing the job told me the devices were shot - and they looked like it (all burnt and corroded looking). We did not install new dampers or anti-squel devices and we unplugged the brake wear sensors - tieing them off out of the way.
GonzoP1
