CGTS warm up time - Page 2 - Boxster/Cayman - PistonHeads UK

My newly acquired CGTS takes an age for the oil temp to reach 80c. Please can anyone advise what the maximum recommended revs are until the oil reaches correct temperature. I’ve been keeping below 3k. Is this being over cautious?

In mine, a PDK, I switch to Sport during warm up as it keeps the revs a bit higher than standard and then drive 2-3 k revs until warmed up properly.

This is from the manual from a 987.2S I wonder how many people leave their car to idle to warm up?

Dazlar7 said: This is from the manual from a 987.2S I wonder how many people leave their car to idle to warm up? Oddly enough that is exactly what was done at my day at the PEC.

m999psw said: In mine, a PDK, I switch to Sport during warm up as it keeps the revs a bit higher than standard and then drive 2-3 k revs until warmed up properly. +1. First 1min is sat still in the garage just to idle out. Then use PDK auto to get out the street in normal mode. Then over the PDK manual mode in Sports + or Sport and ensure revs are always kept below (4k myself). Still takes a good 8-10min to hit 90c. Persoanlly I would not stretch her legs until the car is at 90c

Trotmant said: +1. First 1min is sat still in the garage just to idle out. Then use PDK auto to get out the street in normal mode. Then over the PDK manual mode in Sports + or Sport and ensure revs are always kept below (4k myself). Still takes a good 8-10min to hit 90c. Persoanlly I would not stretch her legs until the car is at 90c I use pretty much the same process to be honest, as I make sure both oil and coolant are up to 90c. I only pretty much use the car in Sports+ mode all the time anyway unless i'm on a long run, its not great for fuel economy but I didnt buy the car for that.

AndyCGTS said: Trotmant said: +1. First 1min is sat still in the garage just to idle out. Then use PDK auto to get out the street in normal mode. Then over the PDK manual mode in Sports + or Sport and ensure revs are always kept below (4k myself). Still takes a good 8-10min to hit 90c. Persoanlly I would not stretch her legs until the car is at 90c I use pretty much the same process to be honest, as I make sure both oil and coolant are up to 90c. I only pretty much use the car in Sports+ mode all the time anyway unless i'm on a long run, its not great for fuel economy but I didnt buy the car for that. Completely agree!!

We have just been on a weeks euro trip, mainly Germany, and a few laps of the Ring and the computer average was 32mpg for the 1600 miles. Great car

Has anyone else noticed that if you turn sport / sport plus off, the oil temp sits quite a lot higher? Mine is at 90 ish in sports plus and 110+ with all the fun stuff switched off...

PJLarge said: Has anyone else noticed that if you turn sport / sport plus off, the oil temp sits quite a lot higher? Mine is at 90 ish in sports plus and 110+ with all the fun stuff switched off... interesting will give a go next week, I tend to run my always in sport + so never noticed 110 unless I push on really hard for a good 15min etc..

110 isn't normal. I would get that checked out. Remember that the oil will take longer to warm up than the coolant.

ORD said: 110 isn't normal. I would get that checked out. Remember that the oil will take longer to warm up than the coolant. Ive seen mine working around that at times, most notiably on a long run but its normally around the 90's. Its also had a health check at my local OPC and everything is reported as fine.

Fair enough. In my experience, oil and coolant temp gauges vary in sensitivity from one car to another. My 997, for example, will show a notable drop in oil temperature if the car runs at low revs and high speed for a while after hard driving (effectively over-cooling for a minute or two, I suppose). By contrast, other 997s I have driven showed almost no needle movement, as did my 987.2. I prefer to know the gauge works, to be honest!

Why can't you warm the engine up just idling? I'm well aware you shouldn't but why not.

anonymous said: [redacted] I know that is the received wisdom - but if it is the case why do they do exactly that at the PEC?

Coz it's a lot easier than driving the cars around sedately for 15 minutes!

ORD said: Coz it's a lot easier than driving the cars around sedately for 15 minutes! Not the case when I was there - there was plenty of spare bits of track, link roads etc which would have speeded the process (at Silverstone). May be the case I suppose if it's a very busy day.

bcr5784 said: Not the case when I was there - there was plenty of spare bits of track, link roads etc which would have speeded the process (at Silverstone). May be the case I suppose if it's a very busy day. You don't think leaving a car to idle is a lot easier than driving it around for 15 minutes? If he leaves the car idling, the person who would otherwise be driving it around can do other work, scratch his bum, etc.

ORD said: You don't think leaving a car to idle is a lot easier than driving it around for 15 minutes? If he leaves the car idling, the person who would otherwise be driving it around can do other work, scratch his bum, etc. YOu are missing the point. I was in the car at the time with the instructor with both of us twiddling our thumbs. I would have much preferred to drive gently and familiarise myself with the car and both of us would have been less bored. If it was a case of switching the car on and leaving it, I would agree, but it wasn't.

Unlike most of our cars they are probably used all day long and never get cold. That probably offsets any damage warming them at idle. I think damage warming an engine at idle relates back to earlier times when cars had manual chokes and the bores were awash with fuel..

benny 61 said: Why can't you warm the engine up just idling? I'm well aware you shouldn't but why not. You can. Oftentimes when I have my cars in for service the techs let the engine idle until it is up to the oil change temperature. (I have data/tracking devices in both my cars and in some cases can observe the vehicle's activity when it is in the dealer's service bay.) However, unless you are preparing to change the oil it is not advisable to let the engine idle too long. Mainly it is wasteful and the engines emit considerable pollution at this time although the engine controller is designed to try to minimize this. There is minimal, make that zilch wear. Honestly. Both of my cars have spent considerable time idling from cold -- after of course being started from cold -- and both engines are just fine. One with 294K miles the other with 137K miles. While I'm a firm believer in getting the engine warmed up some before driving off I do not let either engine idle to full warm up. My "timer" is I let the engine idle until the high cold idle speed drops to near normal and in the case of my Boxster the secondary air injection pump shuts off. (I can't hear this in my Turbo.) Unless it is real cold the above takes less than a minute. I have found over the years both cars are more tractable, easier to drive smoothly, after a bit of idle time. Once I'm underway I keep RPM's below 4K and probably closer to 3.5K or a bit less until the engine has been up to temperature for a while. I know from direct observation both in real time and in viewing this data afterwards both engines can take a long time to reach operating temperature. We are talking sometimes 10+ minutes or more and this at something above engine idle speed.

anonymous said: [redacted] Accepting that they might be unconcerned about long term unreliability consider that a) Both tracks were all- but empty on my day b) There are miles of little used perimeter roads at Silverstone c) They might be open to criticism if they did not do what Pork manuals (and common view) would regard as sensible. Could it be that (with modern oils at middling ambient temperatures) the need to adhere to such warm up procedures is perhaps overstated? Much as the running in procedures have become much more vague.

And we are still speculating as to whether the advice not to idle is based on engine wear or not I believe. Bert

As per OP, I've also noticed the warm up time on my new CGTS is a lot longer than my previous 987.2 CS. Any thoughts on why this is? On my old non digital gauge, it would be up to about half way or normal operating temperature after about 5 minutes of idling or gentle running below 3K revs but now takes more like 10 to 15 minutes. Is it just a case of TADTS

anonymous said: [redacted] It is about emissions and fuel consumption. All car makers who face either EU or USA emissions/fuel economy tests will always state no warm up. Start the engine and drive off as soon as possible. Porsche (and this is probably true of other car makers) inserts a caution to avoid high RPMs until the engine is fully warmed up but emission/fuel consumption tests do not AFAIK venture too high in the engine's RPM range. Partially this is enforced by those cars with automatic transmissions that have a shift map that grabs the next highest gear at very low RPMs. This "no warm up needed" policy is to ensure when the cars are being tested for emissions and economy the tester doesn't let the engine warm up any and make the test results worse.