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THIS DISCUSSION / SOURCE-DERIVED OVERVIEW
Discussion summary
YOUR RESEARCHHardwiring battery maintainer proposal
Leading reported evidence
Install several months & it works great
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1
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
idea -- have had one installed for several months & it works great when needed.
Leading evidence: 'Install several months & it works great' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Install several months & it works great' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I agree with Karel - why not just attach the extra charging cable (the one with the ring connector leads in your picture) and run the end to someplace convenient to
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Suggestion
You could diode isolate the circuit to prevent that, but it you're going to do that, you might as well just use a 6 amp diode on the + line going to the maintainer.
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Suggestion
I agree with Karel - why not just attach the extra charging cable (the one with the ring connector leads in your picture) and run the end to someplace convenient to
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Suggestion
You could diode isolate the circuit to prevent that, but it you're going to do that, you might as well just use a 6 amp diode on the + line going to the maintainer.
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14 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
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Thinking about hardwiring a
battery
maintainer connection to the exterior of the vehicle. This would allow me to
plug
the
battery tender
via an accessible connection on the exterior vehicle so that I could park with the doors/windows closed and still maintain a connection to charge the
battery
. Haven' figured out where to hide it, but probably somewhere in front grill.
The idea is to have the connection inactive when the
battery tender
is not attached (so that you can't short it), but when the
battery tender
is attached, coupling the connector leads to the
battery
.
I was thinking of using a standard
Bosch
relay with the following connections:
85 = + terminal of battery maintainer
86 = - terminal of battery maintainer (and also to Battery (-)
30 = coupled to battery (+) via 5 amp fuse
87A = + terminal of battery maintainer
87 = N/A
The Bosch relay would keep the connector normally open (common ground would remain attached) when the charger unit is not plugged to the connector, but when the charger is attached, the relay would close the switch to couple the + battery terminal to the + connector end, allowing charging of the battery. Since the Bosch relay only draws about .2 amps, it shouldn't impact the charging unit too much.
The only tricky part is that the battery tender has an auto shut off feature once the high end of the battery charge has been reached, which may cause the relay to possibly activate and deactivate periodically or continually. Not sure if the relay can handle this.
Does this seem like a viable solution or is there more preferred circuit arrangement?
Here is picture of the battery tender junior with the plug connections
Why Make Things Difficult?
Buy the
CTEK
3600
Battery
Maintainer (Same as the Porsche one - But Cheaper because it does not have a Porsche Sticker)
CTEK MULTI XS 3600 - Features
It has 2 Ring Connectors to Permanently Attach to your Battery Terminals.......
I lead the cable out of the Front of the Battery Cover, and Out under the Hood and Hold it with the Wiper Blade - Connect when Necessary and Hide under the battery Cover When Driving.......................
If you use a tender with a socket
plug
(and you can modify the tender to have the
plug
) there is plenty of room for the
battery tender
wire to exit around the front door without having to worry about leaving the window down or the door open. See the photo in my gallery with examples of two sizes of electric cords as examples. No need to get this complicated.
I agree with Karel - why not just attach the extra charging cable (the one with the ring connector leads in your picture) and run the end to someplace convenient to
plug
-in. You might have to fabricate an extension cable to get it to reach the front grill, but you probable could just zip tie it up there somewhere convenient.
This is exactly what I do. There is a socket
plug
available for the
Battery Tender
, even an extension cable, and I
plug
into the console lighter and route the cabling through the bottom of one of the doors. Laid flat, the cable will compress the weatherstripping a bit, but otherwise there's no problem.
BTW, the
Ctek
is over-priced, compared to the equally capable
Battery Tender
. A
Battery Tender
Junior works just fine, so long as you're not expecting a quick charge. I also think the Junior is actually safer, because it only puts out 750 milliamps.
I'm with the other guys. Use the cig lighter.
If you really want that external connection, your relay application will not work.
As you described it, the relay will open the second you apply the maintainer and break the connection to the
battery
. Not to mention, you would not accomplish what you hoped because the connector could be shorted and the fuse blown from the outside because you are passing current through the normally closed side of the relay contact.
If you tried to reverse the 87a and 87 contacts, you could theoretically accomplish your goal, but the first time you use the maintainer it will activate the relay and close the circuit. Current will then back feed from the
battery
to the relay keeping the relay active (and drawing 100ma) after you remove the maintainer. This will kill your
battery
and ultimately the relay too.
You could diode isolate the circuit to prevent that, but it you're going to do that, you might as well just use a 6 amp diode on the + line going to the maintainer. A diode allows current to flow in only one direction, to the
battery
, not out of the
battery
. The drawback to this method is that most 6 amp silicone diodes will displace 0.6-0.9 volts of positive bias voltage, ultimately reducing your charging voltage by that much. That may not be a real problem, but I am not sure how your
battery
maintainer would like that. If it reads voltage to determine when to apply a charge, it's not going to see any because the diode won't allow the
battery
to flow current to the maintainer.
The easy fix, do what the others have suggested.
I think you guys have me convinced to just route under the door and use the cig lighter.
Alhough it's strangely reminiscent of how I charge my daughter's barbie jeep
My
battery tender
plus came with cable set that attaches to the
battery
terminals. It has a
cap
on the other end.
My charger is in the front of the garage. When I use it, I just pop the hood and hook it up. Then I lower the hood, without it latching and all is well.
Each and every time I get to remove and install the black plastic
battery
compartment cover. It provides me with the opportunity to appreciate the effort that went into the design and creation of this cover. It's a work of art
Would have to support the
CTEK
idea -- have had one installed for several months & it works great when needed. Also, fyi, the pigtail/
plug
comes with a cover that prevents water & shorts.
If you hook a pig tail to the
battery
add a 5 amp in line fuse within 6-8" of the
battery
post. In fact any aftermarket wires to the
battery
need a fuse @ the
battery
post.
That is a good idea. Haven't purchased a maintainer, as I can't see myself always routing it inside. A more permanent and quick way appealed, but didn't like the idea of a possible short causing a red hot wire. Ease of
plug
in/out is what seems to be the want.
Complete support for the simple approach. There is a structural beam in my garage which runs the same axis as front to back of the Cayman. It is also directly over the steering wheel. So, I mounted a surge protector on the beam and hung a cup hook. I have the excess wire from the tender "twist-tied" close to the cigarette lighter socket end. I hang those coils of cord on the cup hook when I'm driving, and then when I return, I reach up, grab it, and reinsert in the lighter socket. The tender goes on a shelf in the summer, but it could stay hung year round.
Takes 5 seconds to store when I'm going driving, and 5 seconds to
plug
in when I return.
Total cost under $20 and no electrical engineering degree required. Plus, no
battery
worries!
This is a source reference. Confirm exact model applicability in the original material.