rwd to.awd

I was wondering if its possible to.change my my car to awd.

My car is a 2003 (2004 US) 996tt x50 with the following setup Gtx2863 turbos A/R .64 Garrett Tial 44mm external WGs Headers 911 tuning Exhaust Cargraphic Engine mods - pauter rods, raceware studs and cometic headgasket Light polish of heads Aqiuamist meth kit Proto tunes - 91+meth and 100+meth 2x044+Surgetank and big lines Plex Boost controller And much more for sure but these are maybe the most important Transmission&Suspension GT2RS 1,2,3 Wavetrak LSD Sachs stage3 KW v3 SwayBars F/R Numeric SSK Brakes OEM rotors and calipers Fronts - XP20 Rear - XP 8 / to be replaced with XP 20 soon Castrol SRF Weight Carbon Seats Back seats delete Rear Window Wiper deleted SubWoofer removed Tires When was RWD was running R888 in gt2 sizes 235/315 Converted recently back to 4wd and running Cups2 225/295 Wheels are OZ Allegerritta 8" / 11" (turbo oem size) Have also the OEM twists Looking to improve track performance, feel like the engine is so powerful so no need to address anything in this department, having still plenty of power left appart when I need it. Running now like 1.25bar, might setup boost by gear soon. Been able to setup boost by rpm and work nicely AERO here I run full stock, what are our options for some real aero not like OEM ? not looking for something crazy, but still some huge improvements should be able to do here. TRANS&SUSPENSION Do you guys run steel syncros ? Do you flatshift your cars ? Might do some upgrades to my gbox What about oil coolers? Any idea who sells them? Would like to buy a complete kit to change camber front and back, any advice ? BRAKES&TIRES Here I am totally lost... considering 997tt rotors, gt3, girodisc etc... 350mm, 380mm... etc... Dont know... Not looking for something crazy expensive, might use slicks for the next year and perhaps a 19" wheel if the brakes are too big.. I like the 997 gt3 wheels or otherwise would keep my OZs(might be too narrow in 8"/11" tho) My front tires get a lot of heat and guess will need much wider tires in front.. 245 or 255 might be perfect.. dont know what tire combo I should use in this case, I run also 4wd but guess if using these very wide tires can convert back to RWD Guess would need NEW rotors - maybe 350mm+ or even 380mm NEW Calipers ???? Brake lines - read about oem gt2 or gt3 are ok and cheap Then will have to verify if the proposed tire combo will fit wheels and if wheels will fit brakes... huooaaa... Guess that should be all, thanks for reading

Anything is "possible" but the expense would not justify it.

Just copied and pasted this out of my car's logbook. You can find the answers to your suspension/brake/gearbox track setup questions below. Good luck... INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR: MOTEC Dash/datalogger 996GT2 instrument cluster Aim Smarty Cam HD.2 w/ ECU bridge Recaro Profi SPA seats Schroth harnesses Rears seat & seatbelt delete Rear wiper delete Rear subwoofer delete 996GT2 roof panel (sunroof delete) 996GT2 headliner / interior carpeting 996GT2 front trunk tool tray Braille 21lb Battery Tequipment Roll bar 996Cup 63” rear wing RUF front and rear bumper RUF mirrors RUF strut bar RUF door sills RUF pedals RUF wheel studs RUF intake manifold RUF turbo intake hoses RUF shift **** ENGINE: Built by Chris Cervelli: GT3 RSR crank (53mm rod journal) GT3 RSR oil pump GT3 RSR bearings Mahle Motorsport 3.8 liners/pistons (23mm wrist pin) Pauter rods (993-230-560-1270C) 997GT3 3.8 head gaskets Todd McKenzie ported heads w/ high rpm valve springs 997GT3RS pulley 996GT3 Cup belt 2.75” hard plastic turbo intake pipes Unobtainium Welding 3” exhaust w/ 5.2” HJS 100cell race catalysts UMW 1.3 bar ECU UMW K16/997GT2 ZC turbos Motec fuel pump controller Walbro 450 fuel pump with -6AN fuel supply OEM ported headers 997.2 GT2RS Intercoolers 964RS engine mounts TRANSMISSION: 997GT3 transmission mount Setrab / Mocal transmission cooler (Air to liquid) 997GT2RS 1-3 mainshaft with steel synchros PMNA 996 CUP shifter PMNA 996 CUP shifter cables PMNA 996 CUP selector lever 996GT2 clutch hydraulics 964RS LWFW / Sachs Motorsport 764 PP / 997GT3 RS 4.0 clutch disc Guard Club Billet 40/60 LSD RWD SUSPENSION: JRZ RS Pro shocks w/ remote canisters & QD JRZ monoball upper mounts F/R Eibach ERS springs 1400#F/1500#R Eibach ERS helper springs 150#F/250#R PMNA 996GT3 front LCAs w/ 11mm shims PMNA 997GT3 CUP front monoball ends PMNA 997GT3 CUP front toe arms w/ bump steer PMNA 996GT3 CUP front uprights PMNA 997GT3 RSR rear LCAs w/ 1mm shims PMNA 997GT3 CUP rear toe arms w/ bump steer 997GT3 rear hubs 997GT3 rear thrust arms Tarett rear subframe bushings Tarett rear toe locking kit Tarret drop links F/R 996GT3 front 5 way sway bar 996GT3 rear 4 way sway bar BRAKES: 997GT3 RS PCCB brake calipers 380mm/350mm AP racing front 380mm slotted 72 vane floating rotors AP racing rear 350mm slotted 72 vane floating rotors PFC 08 front / 08 rear brake pads Endless RF 650 brake fluid PMNA 996GT3 CUP ABS unit 997GT3 brake master cylinder 997GT2 brake vacuum pump 996GT3 CUP front brake ducts 997GT3 RS rear brake ducts 997GT3 rear brake spoilers 997GT3 rear under tray 996GT2 fender liners F/R WHEELS: 18x10 and 18x13 Finspeed F110 forged track wheels 275/35/18 and 335/30/18 Nitto NT01 tires Chris Cervelli Alignment: Front camber: -3.30' (-3.50º) Front toe: +0.02' (+0.04' total) Front Castor: +7.08' (7.13deg) Rear camber: -2º30’ (-2.50º) Rear toe: +0.15' (+0.30' total) Total weight with 1/2 fuel minus driver: 3198 lbs

You would need to buy an AWD trans, front differential, the three driveshafts, new hub carriers, struts and mounts, and so on. Even then it is a 'marginal' AWD system in terms of power distribution and time in use. If you want an AWD car, sell your C2 and buy one.

Wow impressive setup and complete answer, may I pm you for PNs for some parts ? Was searching for AP racing, but didnt see any front rotors, good to know they are available Do you think I can keep my OZ 8/11 with 245/305 or 315 and those big rotors ?

If you really want AWD it would probably be easiest/less expensive to sell your car and buy an AWD car.

I bought the 996 GT2 competition kit for brakes. Essentially oversize steel rotors and the big yellow calipers. I think Kevin at Autowerke ? has all the part numbers and can order the parts. These fit inside my 18" BBS RS GT wheels no problem. It is an actual upgrade kit with all factory parts.

Yeah well ill forget about awd and just buy a LSD and have some fun

Quotes source post: 4399596

Quote: Sure Fadi, I have a complete parts list if you need one. All OEM stuff. AP racing is a British company that makes the rotors. Very very high quality metallurgy. These are the J-hook you see used in all sorts of Motorsport from IMSA to NASCAR. The 380s are pictured below. They are available in 380 and 350s in both TT and GT offsets. These last a long time but are overkill for the street. Another good option are Girodisc 380/350. I currently have these on by car but switching back to the APs now that they are available. Not quite the quality of the APs but very good none the less and a bit cheaper. Also available in TT and GT applications. I keep stock of both the Giro and AP rotors. The OZ 8/11s will not work. The rears 11s will work but they are not optimal. you really want a 12 rear for the 305s. The front 8s are way too narrow and will not clear the 380s. You need a 9 front to clear the big 380 calipers and even then it's very tight as you can see in the picture below. 9s will also give you a more responsive set up as it will make the sidewall of the tire stiffer by stretching it slightly over a 8.5 for example. Virtually every serious track set up will run a 9/12 and a few even go with a 9.5 with gutted fender liners. Most 18" wheels will not work as only a few are designed to clear the 380 calipers. Off the top of my head, the wheels that will clear are Finspeed, CCW C series, BBS E88. None of the OZ 18" wheels will clear and neither will 996TT or 996GT2 twists. If you stay with the smaller 350/350 brakes mentioned by the poster above, then those will clear any 18s. With proper cooling, the smaller stock 6pots are sufficient for anything but the hardest track use. As far as tires go, if you are RWD then go with the taller 35 series rear tire vs. the short 30 series tire. The 1" taller rear will give you much better performance on all fronts. If you run the 888s run the 305/35/18 instead of the 315/30/18. Same with NT01s. To maintain a proper rake you will need to lower the rear of the car about 10-12mm and get a new alignment to take advantage of the 26.4" tall rears but it's worth it. Hope that helps... [url=https://flic.kr/p/yiPPnn] [url=https://flic.kr/p/yiHbuY]

You would also need a new front clip as the basic pan at the front is different to accommodate the front differential, and a different transmission to have the front drive take off, etc. etc. etc. you could probably buy a couple C4's four what it would cost to do a conversion. Or a 996TT.

Have also a GT-R and running AP Racing, went with curly version in the end over J hooks, going to try to DD this one. Being an UK/European company is the best scenario for me as will be much easier with ordering, transport and pricing/taxes. So will discuss with them, seems I am sold. Can find Girodisc here in Europe - 350mm slotted (guess better than drilled) they are like 3000$ F+R including adaptors The main question is, can I get good performance from the OEM calipers ? or maybe 997tt calipers as they should be pretty cheap to buy used, or do I need to go serious to gt3rs calipers like you? I am not going to do endurance racing, just time attacks and track days - 20 min sessions usually Am I right to consider the following possible setups? - 996tt calipers + 350mm upgraded rotors - 997tt calipers + 350mm upgrded rotors - 997gt3rs calipers + 380mm upgraded rotors Do you guys know if the cayenne calipers are any good? If I remember right they are bigger than 996tt I am considering 997 gt3 19" wheels and they will clear any rotor, even the 380mm, not sure if loosing a lot of tire options and guess they should be more expensive too Dont have options like Hoosier, Kumho, etc here.. more like Michelin, Pirelli, maybe some hankooks too. Also would be nice to be able to use OEM Twists with CUPs 2 NEW RIMS 18/19 with slicks I would try this combo for next year if 350mm rotors would be ok If you are so kind whenever you have some time to PM me any support/PNs/sellers for the following, would be great: TRANS 997GT3 transmission mount Setrab / Mocal transmission cooler (Air to liquid) 997GT2RS 1-3 mainshaft with steel synchros - only synchros needed here INTERIOR 996GT2 headliner / interior carpeting 996GT2 front trunk tool tray SUSPENSION PMNA 996GT3 front LCAs w/ 11mm shims PMNA 997GT3 CUP front monoball ends PMNA 997GT3 CUP front toe arms w/ bump steer PMNA 996GT3 CUP front uprights PMNA 997GT3 RSR rear LCAs w/ 1mm shims PMNA 997GT3 CUP rear toe arms w/ bump steer 997GT3 rear hubs 997GT3 rear thrust arms Tarett rear subframe bushings Tarett rear toe locking kit Tarret drop links F/R BRAKES: PMNA 996GT3 CUP ABS unit - guess can skip 997GT3 brake master cylinder - same 997GT2 brake vacuum pump - same 996GT3 CUP front brake ducts - I would upgrade 997GT3 RS rear brake ducts - I would upgrade 997GT3 rear brake spoilers - please advise if needed 997GT3 rear under tray - pls advise 996GT2 fender liners F/R - ?? same, please advise

Hmm I.wonder what would happen once I put in a LSD its not like I have traction control in the car nowprob won't let my wife drive it in the rain just to be safe

Quotes source post: 4399620

Quote: Will take a look, thanks for the tip. How do you feel them ?

I just removed my AWD front diff, drive shaft for an RWD set up. I have the front diff, drive shaft and axles (front axles are missing the CV joint) for sale.

Quotes source post: 4399730

Quote: Not so sure about the question about how to I feel them? I have never experienced any fade whatsoever but I don't track the car. Brake pedal feel is a little heavier/harder than stock but very manageable (my wife does not necessarily agree with this comment though).

OEM calipers won't be enough for you. At minimum go for 996GT2/996GT3kit but you may not be entirely happy with that. Some of the 997TT/GT3/RS kits (which are more or less the same with bit of difference in caliper piston sizes) should be bit better with also upgraded rear calipers. Pwdrhound knows brakes as above. Pwdrhound, do you know the difference between 996 GT3 Cup uprights and 996 GT3 RS uprights? You have a part number for your Cup uprights? Any specific reason you went with the Cup uprights? I am wondering whether the 996 GT3 Cup uprights were the same as 996 GT3 street version. At least 996 GT3 RS uprights were the homologation piece for the GT3 RSR 2004 with better geometry...and I have my eyes on those.

Quotes source post: 4400131

Quote: Hey Kai, I just looked up the uprights in the 2005 996Cup maintenance manual and ordered those. I think they may be the same parts as on the street cars actually. The RSR uprights have a lower pickup point which gives you lower roll centers. If you end up going with the RSR fronts then you will also need to go with the RSR rear subframes, cross members, wheel carriers, etc. so that you match the roll center of the fronts. The RSR wheel carriers do not have provisions for a parking brake if I recall. I may be cheaper to install all 997GT3 stuff as the geometry is better on those compared to the 996 and you can get it relatively cheap if someone is parting out a wreck. I almost bought a complete set of 997GT3 uprights with rear subframes and the rest of the parts a few months back. Unfortunately someone beat me to it. The 996 is not bad but it helps to run stiffer springs to compensate.

Quotes source post: 4400656

Quote: I have 997GT3 hubs, not uprights or wheel carriers

Guys as my choices here are quite limited, no Hoosiers, Kumho, Nitto, etc We have a great price on Cup2 tires 18,19 R888 only in 19.. dont know why 18" are like 50% more expensive... R888 are even a bit cheaper than Cup2 but not sure they are better than Cup2 Also cost wise 18Cups2=19R888 might be gt2 rims+ gt2/gt2rs 235(245)/35/19F 325/30/19R a good choice including even 380mm brakes clearance?

Quotes source post: 4402878

Quote: For track use, the Sport Cup2 is a great tire. 888s are horrible in comparison.

Than its good, have found the rears available in 12J ET67 or 12J ET51 any idea what's better for track? guess will convert back to rwd

Quotes source post: 4402894

Quote: too much offset need to be in the 40's

Quotes source post: 4402894

Quote: 18x12 et40 running -2.5 camber is ideal..

Fadi, if 19" you should do 305/30/19, the 325/30/19 looks too tight fit for track use. 12x19" ET51 is OK to begin with, but you have to mess with spacers like I've done. You have to install either 5mm spacers, or 14mm+ spacers depending on your overall suspension setup and other stuff. (I have 15mm and the tire is surprisingly not sticking out with -3.0 camber, but this depends on some other stuff as well) I would not do spacers between 5mm-14mm as you cannot get the rim properly hub centric with those sizes... AFAIK. Pwdrhound, my studying of 996RS MY2004 street car uprights show they have a better geometry than 996Cup uprights, while 996Cup uprights were directly from the 996GT3 street car. As Preuninger says, the RS uprights provide "improved dynamic camber control" because the 996 suspension configuration tends to exaggerate bump steer, the lower the ride height gets And then in 997GT3 street car Porsche started to use 996RS type of uprights. So, I am not talking about race car parts, but the 996 GT3 RS street car parts.

I've found finally the ETs from OEM GT2RS wheels and tire specs wheel size front 9J x 19 ET47 wheel size rear 12J x 19 ET48 tyres front 245/35 ZR 19 tyres rear 325/30 ZR 19 and also this STOCK GT2/GT3RS RIMS Fronts: 8.5 x 19 offset 53 with 235/35’s MPSC’s tires mounted Rears: 12.0 x 19 offsets 51 with 305/30’s MPSC’s tires mounted Gt2 runs 235/325 Guess will do 235/305 but might try as well the 245/325 the GT2RS runs especially if going RWD, guess the 245 tire can fit the 8.5J rim instead of 9J on the gt2rs. Thanks guys, speaking now with AP Racing for my next rotors

You can use 245/35/19 on 8.5" rim yes. Bit tight fitment depending on your caster angle in front, but doable. The 325/30/19 will be too big for rear I am afraid. For street driving it's ok but I guess for track driving would have a too big overall diameter. Remember these cars came stock with 295/30/18, the diameter difference becomes huge. I would love 325's for rear if they would fit properly though... Hope you are also getting upgraded brake calipers!

For those who drive mostly street and some trackdays once or twice a year, a handsome brake upgrade could be the bigger 350s disc in front and rear with standard calipers. You just need adapter brackets. For sure the 6piston calipers are better for the front in combination with the 350s, but i am too slow on the track.

Have seen pwdrhound running 315/35/18 thats a 26.7 tall tire, same as 325/30/19. Guess will need maybe new fender lines and maybe other modifications in order to work Will run like 10-15 time attack/ track events per year, was thinking to use 997tt calipers or ask ap racing for new ones

I am wondering anyway if the 235(245) / 325 setup on 19" would be possible as I used to have problems with ABS and PSm ( in RWD) using 235/40/18 paired with 305/35/18 - Circumference diff 3.9% solved by replacing fronts with 245/40/18 - diff 2.7% (under 3% that I know is safe limit) Pwdrhound setup 245/40/18 and 315/35/18 - Circumference delta is 3.8% Gt2rs setup 245/35/19 and 325/30/19- Circumference delta is 3.6% So I wonder if can use 325 in the back and not trigger any ABS or PSM errors, still want to be able to use PSM when I want to, ABS can not see any reason to give up on it. Dont know how 997tt/gt2 ABS&PSM units work and whats the maximum tolerance but seems like a problem for the 996tt platform, anybody used these on 996tt RWD ? One solution might be to use 255fronts if they will fit.. that will give 2.6% Otherwise I will surely use 245/35/19 paired with 305/30/19 with MPSC2 that guess and hope would be better than MPSC2 running oem 996tt sizes 225/40/18 and 295/30/18 Considering now to buy some Pirelli/Michelin slicks for serious track days and use OEM rims 245(235)/645/18 and 305/645/18 as they should fit, not sure how stretched the tire will be. For next year I am considering more and more to use only 350/350 brakes as might use also 18" wheels, for calipers what is the minimum I should look for ? 997.2 gt3 or gt2 / 997.2 any carrera, etc ?

Guys, gone with 997 gt3rs wheels 8.5F et53 and 12R et51 and ordered 350/350 Girodiscs, going to keep the 996turbo calipers one more year if not finding some cheap 996gt2 calipers. Was going to put MPSC 245/35/19 and 305/30/19 on the new wheels, but as I already have a lot of tires for my OEM wheels - MPSC2(good shape) in 911turbo sizes and usedR88+new PS2 in 996GT2 sizes I am thinking to reconsider my options and just run all those next year for street and track and try to fit some slicks on my new rims, searched Michelin website and didnt find any options to fit, but Pirelli has some options that might fit if not too big 245/650-19 305/680-19 - this is like a 26.7 tire so almost like the 325/30/19 but not that wide as the 305 reflects the actual exterior size for Pirelli tires, not like the Michelins 19" Pirelli 19 325/705-19 325/725-19 305/680-19 305/690-19 295/680-19 255/650-19 245/650-19 235/645-19 Pirelli 18 325/650-18 325/660-18 325/705-18 315/675-18 315/680-18 305/645-18 305/660-18 305/680-18 295/680-18 285/645-18 275/645-18 265/645-18 245/645-18 235/645-18 Michelin 19 - seems for fronts the fronts should be at least 10J gues the the 24/65-19 with real 249mm width might be overkill for a 8.5J front wheel, isnt it? 24/65 – 19 S8A P2E · P2G 647 230 249 1986 10 27/67 – 19 P2E 672 260 289 2063 10,5 28/69 – 19 P2E 686 275 306 2148 11 29/67 – 19 S8A S9A 670 322 322 2057 11,5 31/71 – 19 S8H S9A P2G 706 353 353 2192 12,5 31/71 – 19 GT S9L - - - - - Should I try those or just put some MPSC2 245/305 on the 19" and buy some narrow slicks for OEM rims for next season ? Car will be back RWD

Fadi, You will find a 26.7" tall tire very challenging to fit at a proper (read low) ride height especially when using modest spring rates. You will need 1400-1500# spring rates with Motorsport shocks to keep compression to a minimum while providing proper control. I am running a set up like this and clearance is still at a minimum especially under heavy compression. The fronts I run are 245/40/18 and are 25.7" tall. The rears are 315/35 and are 26.4" tall. I run 100/120 ride height. I don't really see how you could make it work with softer springs without running a higher ride height which would be counterproductive. It's a catch 22, the larger diameter tire you fit in the rear, you will need to lower the car by the corresponding amount to maintain a proper chassis ride height. As such, your tire to body clearance is drastically reduced (larger tires and lower ride height to compensate). Just something to keep in mind. Finally, I would stick with 18" wheels for performance reasons. 19s will provide you zero performance benefit over 18s, none. A 245/645 is optimum on 9" wheels and a 315/680 on 12" wheels. 8.5" front wheels are really to narrow. You want a 9" or 9.5". The 680 will be an extremely tight fit and will require heavy fender rolling and a very careful offset selection to work. The 325/660 would be ideal as it's 26.3" tall but unfortunately it is not designed by Pirelli to be used as a rear tire and as such will not have the proper load rating. Probably not an issue on for short track stints but may be a problem during long sessions or high speed highly loaded tracks. The 325/660 is designed as a front tire for the ACR Viper. Hope this helps. There really are no Michelin slicks in the proper size for our cars. Only Pirellis. Finally, the ABS/PSM calibration will become more and more of an unknown with large 1"+ differences in diameter running tires with much greater grip levels over what the stock street ABS is calibrated for. You will be OK but will start to run into issues when really pushing the brakes 9 or 10/10s on less than perfectly smooth surfaces. You will need to back off in certain areas and learn to "drive around" these shortcomings. I battled this for a long time until I installed a proper Motorsport ABS which is programmed for slicks with a 1.2" diameter delta front to rear. All my brake problems went away at that point. I would keep an eye you for a 996GT3 Cup ABS system which pops up on the used market from time to time. PMNA no longer makes them and they are worth their weight in gold and sell literally overnight as guys are installing these in all sorts of car including 997Cups.

Thanks John, the plan was to be able to get wider MPSC2 tires as in 18" the widest rears are 295 only..., after your (great as usual) post, will consider only R compound tires for mixed driving on 19". these will be my street and occasionally track tires Guess 245/35/19 and 305/30/19 will be ok with ABS (and PSM for street) as rears are only 1.7% bigger My suspension is a simple kw v3 so not the best and not even a pure racing suspension, will add some uniball topmounts and check if custom springs are available Might try first slicks on OEM tires and after to buy some dedicated 18" wheels (9.5 and 12.5 maybe) seems Allegerita OZs clear also 380mm brakes and they are light and cheap, but not the best looking imo. Dont know if narrower slicks on 18" (like 225/295) will perform better than MPSC2 245/305, guess will have to see.. Trying to get some dimensions from hankook and other too during this winter 996/997 cup suspension components were hard to find here, guess will go with RSS instead, hope they will work good, what do you think ?

Quotes source post: 4425669

Quote: You won't have any issues with ABS on the street as you're not running at the threshold of the capability of the system. 245/35 and 305/30/19 will work fine. The 245/305 MPSC2 is a very good combo. You will like it at the track. I would check with KW and see what the stock valving will handle as far as increasing spring rates. Keep the front to rear split to a minimum. After testing a bunch of set ups, I've found using slightly stiffer rear helpers works well. I run 1400 mains with 150 helpers in front, and 1500 mains with 250 helpers in rear. This is very close to 997 cup rates and works very well even on bumpy tracks when the compression is softened. I don't believe KWs will handle rates that high but I've run 1100/1200 before and that set up was very good at the track and not quite as hardcore on the street. Very good dual purpose actually. I'm surprised you could not get the the Porsche Motorsport parts directly from Germany. All the stuff is made there. Did your shop contact PMNA there? I would call Manthey as they can get any PMNA parts you need. The RSS stuff is fine but just not as good as the PMNA part and you will run into some issues when trying to bolt on the Porsche brake ducting as it's designed to clip on to the PMNA parts. AS such, you will need to perform some mods to make it all work. Not a huge deal though.. Keep us posted on the progress.. Fadi, if you ever decide to upgrade your suspension give me a shout. I'm a dealer for one of the large European Motorsport shock manufacturers based in Europe and could have a system shipped directly to you from their factory in Europe. All custom built to spec with about a 2 week lead-time.

Pwdrhound, is 996CUP ABS plug and play install for these cars? I will continue to use street legal semislicks like Trofeo R. Haven't had ice mode type of problems since PSM has been disabled. Do you think I could feel the CUP ABS improvement already with Trofeo R type of tires instead of slicks or "Hoosier" type of almost slicks? I see from all of my friends with slick type of tire the CUP ABS is a must, but what about with my street friendly tires...? I'm unwilling to go to full slicks because of few reasons (lack of trailering etc.), should I still do the CUP ABS? Of course the answer seems to be yes from you but as you know, it's a big investment and wondering whether I could spend the money elsewhere for better gains. The stock ABS (while it isn't a proper modern ABS) is not undriveable at the limit with semi slicks, IMHO.

Quotes source post: 4425858

I'm Quote: Hi Kai. Ice mode has nothing to do with PSM, it is strictly a function of the programming in the street ABS unit. All of the street ABS units do it to varying degrees whether it's a 996GT2/3/TT or 997GT2/3/TT. When the ABS senses a sudden loss of all braking (car gets light or even slightly airborne after hitting a bump or bumps) it "thinks" it has hit ice and releases all brake force while retaining a hard pedal. You have to fully release the brake pedal and reapply to regain braking force. The Motorsport ABS units do not use this logic. With that said, I started having issues with it on R compounds when pushing the brakes at the threshold limit of the ABS on bumpy surfaces. In my case the issue may have been more apparent due to the fact that I've always run a Cup style larger rear tire (the Cup ABS is programmed for the larger rear tires) which was not optimal with the stock ABS. As you mention, the stock ABS is not undriveable. It is however very limiting and you have to learn to "drive" around it's shortcomings. You don't really realize how much better the Motorsport ABS is until you drive with it. I consider the Cup ABS one of the best performance mods I've done to the car. It's also a huge safety improvement because I can trust the brakes 100% as many people have put these cars in walls due to ice mode. The performance difference is quite noticeable on R compound tires and my data shows an extra 0.2Gs under braking compared to the street ABS. On R compounds I see 1.1-1.2Gs and on slicks it's closer to 1.6Gs. Get ready to eat through pads and rotors at a much higher rate! The Cup ABS is physically a basic 4 channel 986 Boxster hydraulic unit with a Motorport brain. Physically it looks like any Boxster unit that sells for $150 on Ebay. It's the brain part that you are paying the $5K+ for. The ABS unit is a direct bolt on but you will need a new mounting bracket along with new brake lines that connect the abs to the distributor block. You will also need a Cup brake fluid reservoir. All the parts are about $150 and can be bought from the dealer. I looked up all the part numbers in the 2005 GT3Cup PET. With that said, this is not an easy (or cheap) mod. While the physical install is simple, the wiring will require someone who has the Cup and TT wiring diagrams with a thorough knowledge and experience doing this type of work. My shop actually discovered some errors in the factory manual regarding the labeling of the respective wheel sensors. The stock ABS connector will need to be completely de-pinned (see 3rd pic below) and the correct wires re-pinned into the Cup connector which needs to be purchased separately but it's cheap (you can see all the unused left over shrink wrapped wires sticking out of it in the 4th picture). The Cup ABS communicates with the instrument cluster over K-line while the street ABS over CAN bus. As such, while the Cup ABS will be operational, your instrument cluster will not be able to get speed information from the ABS module which means that your speedometer and odometer will not be working. This is not a problem as long as you use a standalone dash display like the MoTec I'm using. MoTec displays countless selected parameters including speed and odometer information of course (plus you can't see the speedometer anyway with the standalone display ahead of it). We are also feeding the Cup ABS information directly into MoTeC which will display any fault codes if they were to pop up. Obviously with the Cup ABS you will loose PSM and the pump and yaw angle sensor and associated wiring can be removed as they serve no purpose. Hope this answers some of the questions Kai... [url=https://flic.kr/p/y8FKhp] [url=https://flic.kr/p/ynT9MG] [url=https://flic.kr/p/ADAcmf] [url=https://flic.kr/p/ziy7vf]

GIVE THIS MAN A MEDAL! John, once again appreciate a lot the info. I feel it's an old ABS (as it is) so thinking about the change... I could have one unit available for EUR2K or so... P.S. Where is the story of your engine build? I remember you were making a 3.8L build for this season, would love to find out the thread with detailed facts, figures and your opinions after the build? Will be copying your ideas if possible...

Quotes source post: 4425985

Quote: Hey Kai, If you can get the Cup unit for 2K Euro I would not hesitate. That's money in the bank. The last one I saw on Rennlist was listed for $8K but that included a 997Cup wiring harness to go along with it. Usually these units alone go for $5K. Remember, these units are no longer sold by PMNA so the prices on the used market just keep going up. Funny thing is, these were originally $2k from PMNA, then they gradually kept increasing the prices all the way to $8K before they discontinued them. If you find one, just make sure it is the latest version which was labeled as "Diagnosestand A02" on the white sticker under the wiring connector. When you scan the unit with PIWIS, version "A02" will come up. [url=https://flic.kr/p/zZkB7H] Oh, yeah, here are the part numbers for the ABS unit and lines: PMNA 996Cup ABS module 996.355.049.92 Brake fluid reservoir 997.355.013.21 ABS module bracket 996.355.033.02 Brake lines: 996.355.311.43 996.355.313.02 996.355.315.03 996.355.316.05 996.355.326.05 996.355.327.04