I've search the articles and the various threads and found a few that came close but nothing specific on replacing the
exhaust
tips on a
987.2 Cayman S
/R which has that T-part. I've got a set of
Soul
Performance X-Type
exhaust
tips to install and based on the information I've received from them (thanks John for the very quick responses) - it would seem to be a simple matter of loosening the T-tube, the joiner above it for the horizontal tube between the mufflers and the straps on each side. I've done that, but I seem to be remain several millimetres short of the play I need to get the OEM
exhaust
tips off. Going beyond this and removing the bolts from the muffler to header flange on one side is going to be a new level of complication for which I may not have the tools and the ability. The car is currently up on my
race ramps
.
I have no doubt many of you here have replaced your
exhaust
tips with either a
Fabspeed
, Dream2 or even the new
Soul
Performance parts. How did you do it? How aggressive can I be in pushing the mufflers apart or do I need to remove one of the mufflers?
John at
Soul
P. provided the attached photo as a guide making reference to the yellow and red arrows. The photo, a screen grab from
Pelican Parts
, appears to be from a
987.1
....but I get the general idea. I'm there and while I've got muffler off of the tip assembly, it's still nowhere near coming off....is there less play than I need?
I think you are on the right track in terms of loosening the proper bolts. Maybe get help from someone to pull the mufflers apart enough to get the T-pipe freed up. It would definitely be easier to do it on a lift. I don't think it is absolutely necessary to unbolt the catback from the
headers
, but since your
headers
were recently installed, those bolts will be very easy to loosen, you will have to take the rear wheels off though.
It has been about 5 yrs, but I think I just loosened the bolts around the "can" hanger straps. Then I used one of these spreaders to slowly expand the gap between them until I had enough clearance.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-24-in-Clamp/1000235517
. They have smaller versions that should also work. The clamp ends reverse to act as a spreader and you just squeeze the handle repeatedly.
No need to touch the header/flange nuts. There's enough flex in the system to expand enough to remove the tee.
OP I couldn’t get it done without loosening the flange bolts, too. It's been a while and can’t recall if it was both sides or just one that needed loosening for this particular tweak, but there are little removable panels in your wheel wells that greatly facilitate access to these fasteners. Once they're loose you should have plenty of wiggle room to make the swap. Obviously I’ve also always removed the rear wheels for this sorta stuff.
That may be the solution I need. Just picked up one of those clamp/spreaders at our local Home Hardware (on sale!) and will give it a try. I appreciate the quick feedback and will let you all know how it turns out.
As people have already said; no need to touch the header/flange nuts. If you can’t get the straps to open (which is very difficult considering the constant heating/cooling of that area, not to mention rust and dirt build-up) an easier way would be to undo the nuts holding the straps (2 on each side). Then you will have plenty of wiggle room. You can see the nuts/bolts in the picture right
next
to the red arrow. This is how I always did it on mine. Loosening the header nuts will not do anything since the back piece is held so tight by the straps.
@RSchwerer - well, your recollection was correct. That little clamp/spreader tool
saved me about $200
this afternoon. I loosened the straps (@hallonz - no rust or dirt, my car does not see rain or heaven forbid, snow unless by some cruel trick of nature), then the bolts on all three clamps (top and bottom) - used the spreader and pop!, they pushed apart and I could remove the old tips. I then slid on the new ones to one side, release a bit of the spread, slid them onto the other side and fully released the spreader. I then attached the straps on both side to correctly seat both mufflers before tightening the clamps. While I had no particular aspiration for my already "will it pass the sound check at the track" exhaust, I am very pleased to find that it actually softens the sound at idle without taking away any of the more aggressive notes at higher rpms.
I could continue to fiddle with the tip positioning all afternoon, but got them level with the script visible. I had WD40 on the exhaust pipes to make removing the old part easier so I need that to burn off before a final tightening. Overall, very pleased....not least about the money the members of this forum saved me.
Hello Singletrack,
When you purchase a DREAM2
exhaust
it comes with four (4) pages of instructions with pictures on how to install the DREAM2.
No cutting or welding required to install the DREAM2. Approximately half of our customers report installing the DREAM2 themselves.
Please visit our website for additional information:
BCVelocityexhaust
Great to know. I looked at your product, but you did not have the finish I was looking for.
