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YOUR RESEARCHIMS Bearing Replacement DIY by Pelican Parts!
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Fill with pictures, i did lowering springs
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someone was installing PSS9s : it was filled with pictures, I did lowering springs on many cars before myself.
Leading evidence: 'Fill with pictures, i did lowering springs' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Check ride height' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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chances are you'll run out your ability for -toe in as the oem toe links give barely enough adjutsment and in fact, I didn't get mine dialed in properly until I installed some TS toe links.
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lowering springs properly setup and replaced over time ( as they tend to lose their "spring" ) are a terrific and actually decent handling *compromise* btw stock dampers and full coilovers.
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Suggestion
I remember checking some DIY someone did on 996 without taking the rotors off, he used spring-compressor to compress the spring and sliding it out, not sure if on TT can be done same way
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chances are you'll run out your ability for -toe in as the oem toe links give barely enough adjutsment and in fact, I didn't get mine dialed in properly until I installed some TS toe links.
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Performed · outcome unconfirmed
lowering springs properly setup and replaced over time ( as they tend to lose their "spring" ) are a terrific and actually decent handling *compromise* btw stock dampers and full coilovers.
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31 eligible posts · 0 unverified posts · 1 discussions match the subject in their title or opening post.
6SpeedOnline: 1 discussions
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Generation: 20261027T031046Z · outcome-qualification-6. Deterministic extraction; no AI model inference. How we use sources
The M96/M97 Carrera engine has had a checkered past when it comes to reliability. One of the weaknesses identified in recent years by Porsche has been the intermediate shaft bearing (IMS bearing), which supports the intermediate shaft on the flywheel end of the motor.
Porsche designed these motors using a sealed ball bearing that is pressed into the intermediate shaft. These types of bearings are typically used in devices like copy machines and other machinery used in dry conditions. In theory, the area where Porsche designed the bearing to sit is supposed to be dry. However, after years of use within the engine, it would appear that oil and contaminants from the engine seep past the bearing seal, wash out the original lubricant, and become trapped inside. The result is that the bearing now operates in a less-than-ideal environment and begins to wear prematurely and may eventually cause significant damage to the engine.
We have spent numerous hours to provide you with the most detailed step-by-step DIY with clear pictures of each step. If you are considering this project, check out the article and let us know what questions you have along the way.
Go for it!
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IMS Bearing Replacement DIY
I've decided for now, go with lowering springs, h&r sports, I just would like to get rid of that 4x4 look, since I dont track the car. I drive just on weekends, short trips, I'm looking for few DIY's I found one few months back ,*old post* not from 6speed it was a shop. someone was installing PSS9s : it was filled with pictures, I did lowering springs on many cars before myself. I have spring compressor but thinking to buy a new one anyways. Since mine is pretty old , can you guys post few DIY links: trying to gather as much info as possible before i proceed.
I have this one :
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...read-pics.html
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well since i have springs just laying there, why not
rear ones seems easy, the only thing that worries me about the front you gotta take the front rotor(s) off. BUT had my BOTS fixed not too long ago so it shouldn't be that bad.
I remember checking some DIY someone did on 996 without taking the rotors off, he used spring-compressor to compress the spring and sliding it out, not sure if on TT can be done same way
^_ that what worries me, as well, maybe i should just wait till next year and after winter buy coilovers with top mounts, and sell the lowering springs
Fronts:
Remove lower shock bolt
Remove drop link (top and bottom bolts)
Disconnect tie rod end (modified NAPA tool is best)
Loosen lower spring perch (bolt with 10mm nut)
Twist perch till you have access to the little square bump
Use a pry bar to pop stock spring out of perch
Wind down spring
Undo three bolts holding top mount
Disconnect two sensors located behind hub
Detach electrical connection behind hub (one nut and another bolt) This is to give you play
Disconnect half shaft at dif (some say you can just pop it out but I think taking out the allen bolts is safer)
Compress the shock top mount so that it can be swung free of fender
This will allow you to take off the top mount free of the fender well. You should be able to replace the springs as well. Then just reverse the process.
I put H&R s on, took the better part of the day in my friends garage. Difficult but not impossible. Lowered the car below GT2 specs, had to graph and extrapolate some of the corner alignment settings. Runs great on the street and track, with minimal tire wear compared to stock.
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I did my H&R springs at home in my garage without a lift. Took just over an hour. It was my first time, although I am an ex-technician. Its not tough if you are mechanically inclined.
I didnt encounter any issues with my install. Cars an 05 and had about 50k on it when I did the install
Adam
My issue with just springs are that the old shocks are tired (depending on how many miles you have ) so why not just new dampers with the springs too or as you said, coil overs.
BTW guys quick question after changing the suspension , is it ok to drive the car to the alignment shop its 40min away, and i trust them, since they align cars for track and you can bring the car as low as you want since they use in ground align
some people said, the car is scary to drive after lowering, and it be all over the road, i dont think that 1" makes huge difference and be ok to drive to align shop - Yeah I'm doing this weekend. maybe snap some pics
if everything goes well, lol sometimes i dont mind how the car looks/sits but that 4x4 in front look bugs me, with wheel spacers it will look amazing.
theres no "scary all over the road" anything. lowering springs properly setup and replaced over time ( as they tend to lose their "spring" ) are a terrific and actually decent handling *compromise* btw stock dampers and full coilovers. the key to successfully riding with any suspension changes are well matched parts, wheels, and alignment. so rubber and ride height, will allow for a better plant. but bear in mind, any *improvement* in tautness firmness of ride e.g. "feedback", is a compromise to that ( awful ) and softer oem ride/feel and HEIGHT ( ack ). a trade off that most of us are willing to make.
ok cool, local indy (friend) shop quoted me $650 But i think ill do it myself. I wanted to check how for labor. I'm going to attempt installation this coming weekend. I need to find that tool for lower bolt joint to press it out, and new nuts for axles. and probably buy or rent the spring compressor. I have one, but it was used too many times..
Hey Mark, haha.. I was planning on getting the sports! I made the y-pipe setup myself...wasn't to bad at all but I didn't make any jigs to replicate it this time.
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yep, no problem, installing h&r sports.
this how the car will sit, this picture is actual H&R sports lowering springs, plus I have 10mm spacers all around. Cannot wait to see the results.
I will toss my .02 worth out there as I have done this probably 4 times. The best luck I have had is to disconnect the axle from the front diff. Then use a spring compressor to compress the shock/spring. If you have compressed it enough you can push down and tilt it out. It can be a bit of wrangling but it works.
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agree. that was my setup before i went gt2 fitment. it's hard to say which "looks" better surely just a personal choice. but i'm more confident in the tire/wheel choices when not using the spacers but 7x15 on twists is as good as it gets for the street and also the h&r sports is a good drop and ( not too costly ) so long as we avoid speed bumps over 5mph etc !
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good question. barely. Had a 4 corner alignment done on a Hunter, the tech said he was at the end of the allowable adjustment. Double check new ride height. Mine was lower than even the lowest factory, GT2. I graphed all alignment specs against ride height in excel, then extrapolated to get my settings. Works like a charm on track and street.
[email removed]
Keep checking this thread, I may do DIY, camera is fully charged, i have time to do it and i'm in no rush. I'm going to replace rear first. I'm about 80% sure fronts, either I have to replace top mounts, (cracked rubber) or bearings. its nice to actually take it apart after the car is 12 years old. and inspect the parts (i'm getting some noise from ,front suspension while going over small cracks in the road at low speeds. and that makes to replace the parts that need to be replaced.
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"barely" as dave ( e-ram lol ) carerra correctly points out, is exactly right, and
just barely
. chances are you'll run out your ability for -toe in as the oem toe links give barely enough adjutsment and in fact, I didn't get mine dialed in properly until I installed some TS toe links. prior to that, I was getting the telltale extreme inner tire wear, that lowered ( uncompensated for after lowering ) cars tend to exhibit.
if you run the car lowered and run high(er) horsepower ( especially rwd! ) you will with the combination of power down "squat" and not enough - toe in have premature tire wear issues.
its part of the "trade off" of running only with springs and no supporting bits, but can be easily remedied with adjustable toe links.
