996 Clutch change: What else should I do? - Page 1 - 911/Carrera GT - PistonHeads UK

Hi All, 1998 C2, 3.4. At just under 100k mile, my clutch is started to slip. Not bad going. Firstly, any suggestions on which clutch? Also, what else should I get done? IMS. Tempted to get my exhaust manifolds sorted at the same time as they are looking a bit tired. Flywheel lighted? Thanks, HF

Definately have the RMS changed and if it was me, I would also go for either an uprated IMS or at least a new one. There are mixed views on lightened flywheels, but if you only use it on the road I wouldn't even consider it.

Trev450 said: Definately have the RMS changed and if it was me, I would also go for either an uprated IMS or at least a new one. Sachs clutch (same as genuine Porsche, save the box AKAIK) is fine.

Thanks - sachs clutch and the RMS.

At 100k it's also time to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel so if you want a lightweight single mass unit now is the time as cost wise they are probably cheaper anyway. The RMS should be done, they are very cheap and can only be access when the box is off. The IMS should also be replaced, not cheap but will give you some peace of mind.

The flywheel might still be fine, I'd get the garage to test it (there's a specified deflection distance when twisting it) and if it's close to the maximum then changing it is probably a good idea but if for example it's only moving half the maximum then it's all good and only half way to a new one. Do do the IMS bearing though.

I just had my clutch changed last year on my Boxster I can strongly recommend the IMS bearing replacement kit from Pelican Parts. Ease of mind on the Health of your car in all future. CK

Thanks All. Had a chat with Design 911, who recommended HP Motorsport. Seemed very knowledgeable, and mentioned he will inspect everything once off. Looking at £700+Vat including parts for the Clutch (sachs). He mentioned Oil Sprays when doing the RMS? HF

Henry Fiddleton said: Thanks All. Had a chat with Design 911, who recommended HP Motorsport. Seemed very knowledgeable, and mentioned he will inspect everything once off. Looking at £700+Vat including parts for the Clutch (sachs). He mentioned Oil Sprays when doing the RMS? HF Don't you mean the IMS in relation to an oil spray? This works on the basis of removing the grease from the bearing which is the cause of the problem in the first place, and suppling the bearing with a constant supply of oil. This mod is quite popular in the US and appears to be a good solution to the issue.

Trev450 said: Don't you mean the IMS in relation to an oil spray? This works on the basis of removing the grease from the bearing which is the cause of the problem in the first place, and suppling the bearing with a constant supply of oil. This mod is quite popular in the US and appears to be a good solution to the issue. Honestly, no idea. He mentioned the oil spray and a massively increased cost. Once in, he will inspect and take it from there.

Henry Fiddleton said: Trev450 said: Don't you mean the IMS in relation to an oil spray? This works on the basis of removing the grease from the bearing which is the cause of the problem in the first place, and suppling the bearing with a constant supply of oil. This mod is quite popular in the US and appears to be a good solution to the issue. Honestly, no idea. He mentioned the oil spray and a massively increased cost. Once in, he will inspect and take it from there. Probably this one: http://theimssolution.com/how-does-the-ims-solutio...

Henry Fiddleton said: Honestly, no idea. He mentioned the oil spray and a massively increased cost. Once in, he will inspect and take it from there. If it's a replacement bearing then there's also a massively decreased chance of the IMS bearing failing (without warning) and causing many £k's of damage to the engine. I know what I'd be doing.... Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do yah?

I would budget for a new flywheel as well. Had to have mine done when I changed my clutch as well as a replacement IMS bearing at just over 40,000 miles.

The IMS bearing on my 1998 car didn't last, luckily it was caught noisy on a ramp and changed. So it's something I'd recommend doing whilst you're in there. Also, a lightweight flywheel will put more strain on the engine (one of the reasons dual mass ones came about was to smooth and dampen engine vibrations. So if you fit a lightweight single mass one it's definitely a good idea to ensure as much of everything else (within reqson/practicality) is as healthy and protected as possible.

Normally I would recommend you leave the RMS alone unless it were showing signs of leaking but I had my 2003 Turbo in for a new tranny (under warranty) at around 30/40K miles and because the RMS was leak free and because the replacement RMS in my 2002 Boxster (replaced under warranty at 25K miles) had remained leak free for around 250K miles I left the RMS alone, thinking that the 2003 RMS would last forever. Well, it didn't. At 115K miles the RMS developed a leak and I had to have this RMS replaced. So, the short version is replace the RMS. But this must be done right. The RMS can't be installed exactly where the old one was or the new seal will be in a groove that the old seal wore in the crank journal and the new seal will leak. Also, if the RMS is mis-handled or the installation just done poorly you will have this work done yet a 3rd time. Check the flywheel for proper operation, that is the tech should check this. If ok reuse it though the tech might want to have the flywheel resurfaced. Since the dual mass flywheel also serves as a crankshaft dampener I would not replace it with a light weight flywheel. The factory flywheel is pretty small and not that heavy. The stock clutch is pretty good if not abused and the engine stock. If you go overboard with a "heavy duty" clutch you will pay for it with increased pedal pressure which can be a real pain in the leg going forward. Afterwards have a brake and clutch fluid flush/bleed.