Any instructions on hard-wiring a V1?

I was hoping someone would have instructions on how to hard-wire a V1 in a 996.

Jim here's a URL for wiring a V1 in a Boxster. <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/box_valentine_radar/box_valentine_radar2.htm" target="_blank">V1 installation in a Boxster</a> This one is really too much work. I've seen a clean 996 installation with by drawing power off the map light cluster near the mirror, but I'll have to dig up that link. I haven't hardwired my V1, still trying to figure out how to deal with the remote display. Paul

Jim and Paul, I posted the same question a couple of months ago and didn't get the reply that I was looking for. Well, I finally got around to it last week and it was easier than I thought it would be - this is what I did: 1) Remove the CD holders, center storage tray and the leather sides and carpet sections from the front center console (they all just pull off). 2) Locate/place the V1 square power adapter unit in the rear of the center cavity area. 3) Run the positive lead from the console cavity area over to the heated seat fuse (it's energized by the key, so V1 goes on-off with car) or other on-off fuse you prefer. 4) Secure ground with the nut at the bottom of central cavity area. 5) Run one cord to the remote display located dead center at the top of steering column (Initially, I tried locating the remote display in the center console storage tray, but found it too difficult to look down and to the right to see the activity). The cord can be run "hidden" to come up from behind the steering column. Use a stiff wire snake and poke it down to the footwell area, attach V1 cord and pull it up through the column and position it in the right spot. 6) Run the other cord to V1 unit located behind the drivers side visor, just to the left of the rear view mirror. You will retain use of the visor. Run the cord under the dash, across toward the drivers side door. Once you reach the outside of the car, tuck the wire in the creases/rubber, etc. until you reach the V1 unit. I planned it so that I had a little excess wire at the end and secured it in the roof mounted light housing, so that in the event of a suction cup failure, the wire is secured and the V1 unit should just dangle (due to telephone style connector) and not fall, thus preventing gouging of any carbon fiber, paint or leather (this is my theory anyway). 7) That's it. I have no wire visible and the dead center position of the remote alert seems to work very well. This didn't take too long to do - about 1 hour and I didn't have a plan, nor had I removed any trim pieces previously. This would be my recommendation.......

Thanks for taking the time to write up the step-by-step instructions, John. Looks like a good way to go. Did you retain the use of the CD holders?

Yes, the junction box is located in the void behind the CD holders and storage tray.

[quote]Originally posted by John D II: <strong>Jim and Paul, 3) Run the positive lead from the console cavity area over to the heated seat fuse (it's energized by the key, so V1 goes on-off with car) or other on-off fuse you prefer. This would be my recommendation.......</strong><hr></blockquote> John, when you say run the lead to the fuse, you mean in the fuse box?? Or the unused switched plug like the boxster hack uses?

I connected the positive lead(wire) to the metal part of the fuse receptacle (the part that the fuse itelf plugs into) for the heated seat. Then I connected the ground via a large nut in the lower area of the center console. Very easy to do and works great. I was not aware of the unused switched plug you mention, which should perform the same function. I'm sure either way would work.

Yeah I'm sure either will work, but I don't want to have to cut/strip wires, so the fuse receptacle idea sounds much better, sounds like much less of a hack. Thanks John! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

I did a simple hardwire to the sunroof switch in the reading light console. The V1 is attached with the suction cup mount to the left of the mirror, and a short phone cord extends from the light housing. I used "T-taps" to connect the positive lead of the V1 power block (after removing the housing and wraping in thin foam) to the switched power lead to the sunroof switch, and attached the ground to the screw attaching the light cluster to the body. Everything except about 4 inches of phone cord is concealed in the roof cavity above the sunvisor. I passed on using the remote display as the V1 is in great position to pick up signals as well as to view the display. The suction cup mount has worked well with no problems, as long as it is attached below the pebbled surface at the edge of the windshield glass. Good Luck.

John, There is either a green and black or green and brown wire located in the center console, behind the batwing front panel. That wire is "switched". May be a little easier to locate than the seat heater wire inder the seats. That is where I installed my power source.

Bob, That is the ideal spot to pick up the power. I ran over to the fuse box, since the lead supplied was long enough to reach and the fuses were marked, so it was a quick and easy decision. For others that are going to do the remote installation, your method is good information.

I too preferred the phone connector, center console behind the "batwing" I tried to provide pictures but I don't know if I did it right <a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Dscn0022.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Dscn0022.jpg</a> <a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Dscn0019.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Dscn0019.jpg</a> <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

Since we're speaking about radar detectors. What is the best way to hide a radar detector but sitll get good signals?

Good topic <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> The best I could do w/V1 remote, was to not use any of the mounting brackets, and velcro the main unit to the top windshield trim. In dark mode, its tough to see.

Good topic <img src="graemlins/jumper.gif" border="0" alt="[jumper]" /> The best I could do w/V1 remote, was to not use any of the mounting brackets, and velcro the main unit to the top windshield trim. In dark mode, its tough to see.