Throwout bearing noise?

While sitting with the engine off, I noticed a squeak with some sticky resistance in pedal feel. The sound is definitely coming from the rear. Any ideas? - YouTube Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. youtube.com

As a side note, I had to replace my clutch master cylinder because it was leaking

I have almost an identical noise, but mine is definitely coming from the pedal assembly. Research is showing it to be the clutch assist spring, which is a known 'squeak' location. Apparently they can be re-greased, replaced, or even removed by some accounts.

Yea I was hoping that it would be the spring, but the noise happens right around the engagement point, pedal is pretty heavy, and noise is def coming from trans.

Master leak may have been a symptom of deeper clutch problems. How many miles on the clutch? Whatever action you decide quicker is better as to protect the synchronizers. In the meantime you can try to re-bleed it if you are so inclined.

When I had a Boxster back in 05, I had the same sound. I took the car to my dealer due to it being under warranty still. They replaced the entire pedal assembly. Luckily because it was over $3k!

I just purchased the car a few weeks ago, came with the squeak but less pronounced. I also live in the city, so lots of clutch work. I noticed the MC leak about a week in when I saw a drip on the pedal. The PPI did say the clutch felt a little heavy. It’s not slipping and seems to engage fine. I was complaining about a whine that I didn’t notice on my test drive. It’s loud around 3/4k and gets drown out by the exhaust after that. Sounds like a supercharger, changes with rpms, in gear and in neutral. Same noise if the drive belt is on or off. I had the belt and idler pulley replaced since the belt was worn anyways. Power steering fluid was low so I topped that off too. 76k on the body, but the short block was replaced around 36k due to bore scoring. The clutch was done at that time too.

Actually called the Porsche dealership that did the short block replacement. Looks like they only reinstalled original clutch parts. Carfax said clutch replaced. So 76k on the original clutch…

With that kind of mileage it might just be time to get in there and do the clutch & throwout bearing? Still curious what the cause of the squeak is. Sounds like a metal on metal contact almost, which makes me think possibly the fork?

From others I've seen post here with over 100k on the original clutch, not so sure I'd jump to replace it @76k. It very well could be worn, but I wouldn't go based on mileage. If there isn't slipping or grinding, I'd be looking elsewhere for an issue.

What else could be making the noise that’s not internal though? Slave cylinder?

Actually called the Porsche dealership that did the short block replacement. Looks like they only reinstalled original clutch parts. If that had been my ride that would not happen. Took my 944 to the dealer for belt service. When I got it back it was leaking oil like the Exxon Valdeez. Service manager to me: " you didn't say to replace the oil seal ". So jam the obviously compromised one back in, park it leaking and call yourself a DEALER?? I ended up paying the labor and part for a new seal, I was too busy in those days to fight with dealers. Since then I get it all in writing and if they were going in there it's always a good call to replace it with all new parts, period. The labor getting in and out is the killer so the minimal extra pain of new parts and a surfacing of the flywheel if necessary is smart. In my day there were people who did clutch jobs and left the old T/O bearing, totally piker move for the nominal savings IMO. As for mileage? I find it's one important metric among several such as tandem information to "it feels heavy".

I do feel some grinding Nothing good can come from that statement, it could be the synchros. Whatever it is driving it could likely be adding to the repair extent and cost.

OP, Get ready to change the clutch and bearing. Why? Well if your clutch starts to slip, you will need the change the dual mass flywheel. I changed mine at 45k and was happy that I did, as all I needed was a Sachs clutch kit . The reason I changed it was two fold. I did hear a slight noise/pulse while in neutral, which was coming from the trans axle, although it seemed to come from behind the gauges. My shop told me I had about 20k more miles on the clutch disk, but that was their guess. It depends on how much clutch slip you use, especially on hills at a full stop. With the new transmission oil and clutch plate/bearing I have not experienced any clutch or transmission rattle.

While we’re on the subject, any suggestions of clutch kits or setups to go for? Aside from the kit, I’m assuming I should just replace the flywheel and fork while I’m in there?

No need to replace the dual mass flywheel unless its scored. That is the reason to replace the clutch disk before it starts slipping and scoring the flywheel face. Not sure where my local speed shop sourced the clutch kit. Pelican Parts has the Sachs kit for $500.

Not sure if you ever resolved your issue, but figured I'd update my situation. I pulled my transmission and the issue was definitely my throwout bearing. The pressure plate ground down a pretty big ridge on the inside of it and I'm pretty positive that was the squeak culprit. Also replaced the slave cylinder, fork, and the guide tube (which was pretty worn) and did a full clutch job with new flywheel (mine was really scored/worn)/ Overall a pretty straight-forward repair and an easier transmission removal than on a lot of FWD cars I've worked on in the past.

Palestar, How was the IMS bearing , any leakage from the inspection plate? Hopefully no oil leaking from either the IMS or main seal, when you replaced the flywheel. My only problem was a slight pulsing sensation before my clutch renewal. Since the new Sach's clutch kit and Motul 75W-90 trans fluid no issues.

Op here. Haven’t resolved anything yet, but pretty sure it’s just time for a clutch job. Will get it done before spring and let you know what I find. The last time I drove it before this winter weather, I was feeling some vibration through the clutch pedal when shifting and some of that squeaking resistance right at the engagement point. Other than that, there’s no slippage or rattle noises.

Hey guys, OP. Haven’t resolved my issue yet. Crappy weather here, but fairly certain a clutch job with new clutch fork and slave cylinder will knock it out. I plan on getting it done in the spring. I had a specialist say that the squeaking could be clutch dust buildup around the fork. Driving seems normal with no slippage, but can feel vibration in the pedal at the engagement point when shifting. Has anyone else experienced this?

mkemp, you will need to remove the transaxle to access the clutch throughout bearing and fork. So, you might as well replace the clutch plate and throughtout bearing, while saving the dual mass flywheel from scoring. I'm just saying once you have the transaxle off, you might well complete the clutch replacement. You will feel better about the project, I certainly did as I would be facing that exact issue today as that clutch plate would possibly be toast causing flywheel scaring to occur.

Was def planning on doing it all while I’m in there. The only thing I’m on the fence about is just replacing the dual mass flywheel as well. The other thing would be to remove the grease seal from my IMS . I know it’s a bit of extra steps with locking the cams and all, but again, might as well do everything at once.

Exactly, My shop, told me that dual mass fly wheel was in good condition. Sort of like the rotors, there is a certain amount of wear that is acceptable but not scaring. I would also think about opening up the IMS inspection plate if these are no leaks, including the main bearing,