Oil pan/blcok cracked? leak photos

Hello, I'm looking to buy this Carrera from 98 with 49k kms on the clock. When I lifted the car found one rear shock leaking and the oil pan section with oil all over the place. After further inspection I noticed that some mechanic in the past used some kind of JB weld to avoid the leak of oil. I'm not sure if the alu block is slightly cracked but oil pan seems to be either new or free of cracks (maybe the previous owner hit something on the road and replaced the oil pan and glued the block??) or just has ben refurbished back the oil pan profesionally which I doubt. Is this kind of common problem in these cars? Is there any solution besides tearing apart the engine to "weld back" the alu block if that could be the case? Thanks, You can see that the bolt is "locked" in that position by the bond arround it.

Year: 2002 Make: subaru Price: $35000 Mileage: 1 Color: White Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing Location (State): MA Transmission: Manual Drivetrain: 4WD & AWD sold!

These cars are low to the ground to start with. Bottoming one out is quite easy with speed bumps or careless owners. I'd get a PPI before you drop your hard earned money on something that may cost you later.

sold!

I cracked and replaced two oil pans in a period of two months, both from speed bumps

Somewhere on here or another porsche site I have a diy with pics on control arms replacement

how good of a deal are you getting on the car to even consider this? The damage/repair you see here can tell you what kind of care and maintanance was taken with the car and that would scare me more than anything else. Good luck with your purchase and don't just settle on any "good deal", it might not be the best buy.

To put some finishing touches on this thread, there are few things that can make sounds describrd. Each has to be looked at, or uf u do full bore approach, do all at once to fix sounds issue. 1. Lower control arms - known culprit, squeak or thud when going over bumps. You can inspect and see bushings tears. Fix is to replace control arms. 2. Upper control arms - known culprit, squeaks over bumps. Will be hard to inspect bushings as they are obstructed. There is process to inspect on cayenne section. If you replaced lower control arms, and sounds still present, replace the upper control arms. Plus read next point. 3. Upper shock mount bushings - known culprit in air suspension, clunking sound over bumps, especially low speed. These are rubber stops inside each shock. They are supposed to keep internals aligned, but if they get worn, internals of shock stary flopping around, hence clunking sound. Remedy is to replace said bushings. I have a diy from cayenne section on how to do this. Not hard, and if youre doingupper control arms, you have to remove air shocks, giving you perfect opportunity to to replace. 4. Sway bar bushings - not as common for squeaks. Easy to replace, but i would do thease aftervabove 3 are addressed. I have diy on sway bar bushing repair on here in cayenne section, i think. 5. Sway bar links - not as common for squeaks, easy to replace. If i reolace sway bar bushings, might as well do th ese too, cheap and need removal to change sway bushings. After fixing my cayenne which has similar noises, thst users ovserve and repair, i would tackle these noises in shown order. Very doable as diy.

At the very least you want to remove the oil pan and see if it is cracked and if there is a crack in the block itself.

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Thanks for the responses. It's in good price range, besides there aren't many of these 996 arround here (imported) so the market is very small, pretty much for any Porsche model except the newer models that are getting more common due the better economic situation going on here right now. It needs paint overall due the some dents and paint scratches, but it looks good overall except this oil leak and one rear left shock "oiled" or blown. Unbolting the oil pan while it's not my car, it's going a major task, I would think I can take the risk. But if the worst happen, block slightly cracked, there is any way I can fix that w/o tearing down the engine in parts to weld back the crankcase zone to avoid the leak? Thanks

Excellent congrats 👏

It looks like a sloppy homemade gasket for the oil pan. Bring a rag and brake cleaner with you next time you see the car and wipe down the block to see if there is any damage or if it's just messy.

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Removing the oil pan is easy. Just make sure you clean very good and use the correct sealant- Dreibond(sp) or Loctite 5900 when putting back. It doesn't use a gasket. Also correct torque.

IMO, unless your getting it for next to nothing I would consider passing, I do understand how hard it is to find one there but you need to wonder what else was not fixed correctly. Yes, it sounds like the rear shock is blown, and as mentioned, it looks like a sloppy JB Weld job. I would calculate the asking price and add in how much it will cost to repair all the things that need to be done (paint,shock etc..) and look for a car in that range. This is, of course, my opinion.

Thats why the First thing i did when i bought my car was this http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...y_Code=996main

I will try to bring the car to my shop, leçiuft the car, clean the area, remove the bond, dry the surface, take it for a spin, and lift again the car and see from where exactly is coming th eoil if there is no evidence at first look of any crack on the block/oil pan. Then I will have to decide about getting it or not. Will report later if I can make this happen. Thanks! PS: For paint and other stuff is not major thing for me as I do run a body/paint shop as well.