Brake pedal adjustment

I've read here how to adjust the brake pedal height. For those who don't know: 1. you open the front trunk 2. take off the plastic covering the battery 3. remove the horn (to the left of the battery) 4. cut a long slit in the dust boot covering the pedal-to- booster linkage (below horn) 5. Use a 17mm to hold the adjuster and an 18mm wrench to loosen the jam nut and back it off 6. Loosen a 10 or 13mm nut on the adjuster close to the firewall 7. turn the other end of the adjuster with a 17mm wrench until the pedal height suits you 8. tighten 10 or 13mm nut 9. tighten jam nut 10. reattach horn My point is that if you do all this, you must make sure the brake light switch still makes contact with the pedal under the dash. If it doesn't your brake lights stay on all the time and the PSM and SC will register a failure and stop working. I figured all this out after my dealer told me where the switch was that was causing the PSM failure and BEFORE they ordered the new switch.

WPMJR, Great tip. I thought I would make this my first post and therefore avoid the dreaded "Use the Search Feature" reply....and also give this valuable post a bump. I just picked up my Cayman 2.7 on Wednesday and it is certainly a great car. In normal driving situations though, I definitely find that the brake pedal is too high for easy H/T downshifting. I do realize that if I were on a track, threshold braking would bring about a better pedal relationship. That said, this car is supposed to be my daily driver and I really enjoy being able to H/T in a regular driving environment. Cutting the dust boot gave me a little pause, but there was no easy way to access the adjustment nuts by scrunching the boot to one side of the adjustment rod or the other. Also, access to the adjustment nuts is tight, so a little patience is needed, but it is still a simple adjustment. I haven't encountered any problems with the brake switch and my brake pedal is now much more H/T friendly. Thanks again for the tip.

Glad to hear it! Do you remember which were 13mm vs 10mm so I can clean up my post?

I am thinking about not adjusting the brake pedal, but adding something to the bottom of it. I wear size 16 shoes, so heel and toe does not work for me. BUT, i have figure out that if I could have my heel on the brake pedal and use toes on the accelerator, I wold do fine.

Can't you put your heel on the throttle?, or roll the ball of your foot between brake and throttle?

The nut for the horn is 13mm and the brake adjustment nut near the firewall is 10mm.

Nope, my knee jams into steering wheel that is pulled all the way back. I would need the wheel to go another 3-4 inches for my knee not to jam into it.

Just a quick tip. I Just did a further adjustment of my brake pedal. FYI, the Jam nut is actually 19mm, not 18mm. Also, if you turn the ignition to the accesory setting while you are doing your final adjustments, you can see the point when the brake lights come on and then back the adjustment nut off a little. I also placed a small shim between the brake pedal switch and the brake pedal shaft. That way the brake lights won't come on when just touching the brake pedal. Hope this helps.

Pedal adjustment article Wrote this up as an article with pix if you want to try it.... :cheers:

VERY nice article.

Nice article. To maintain the factory appearance/protection, do you think that it would have been possible to repair the cut in the shroud plastic with some black silicone RTV ?

The shroud material is thin and very stiff (think plastic gallon milk container material). I could not get the edges to mate up very well, so you would definitely need a thick material to bridge the gaps, and be assured that it would not drip down inside on the working bits. I would also want to test adhesion first, to make sure that it would stick to whatever type of plastic this is. That being said, I could see putting a thick bead of mastic on the slit with it on top, then after it dries, rotate the seam to the bottom. I office next to a shop that does industrial sewing, so it was easy (and free) to have them whip something up. I may try a dot of RTV next time I am in there to see if it sticks. It would be nice to have stock appearance.... :cheers:

***** Article now updated with better brake switch handling!! NEW and IMPROVED!! ***** :banana:

Mr Vega, great article. A few quick tips from my pedal adjustment on my 07 CS tonight. I DID NOT CUT THE BELLOWS AT ALL 1) No need to remove the battery. Just remove the mounting bracket and slide the battery over. 2) remove the horn 3) clip the band clamps on the bellows 4) push the bellows forward and loosten the 10mm nut with an offset box wrench. 5) leave the 10mm wrench in place and push the bellows back. get the 17mm wrench on the nut & break the 19mm nut. (it is a very tight fit) 6) adjust the 17mm nut & tighten the 10mm nut. tighten the 19mm jam nut 7) replace the bellows & fasten with tie wraps or new band clamps 8) the brake pedal seems to depress further with the car running so you may want to adjust it a bit higher than when the car is off 9) the brake light switch plunger was harder to pull out than I thought it would be.

It's amazing how much difference a small adjustment can make for driving pleasure. Heel and toe on the track is so much easier now.