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YOUR RESEARCHAdvice re seized bleed nipples?
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Clean off
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You'll have to get the brakes bled at the same time and make sure the threads and surrounding areas are clean and all excess fluid is cleaned off.
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It looks like they've been over tightened by some inexperienced plonker!!!!
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930 351 919 00 (4 total for the car) is the part number I used but check for your VIN to be sure.
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Suggestion
930 351 919 00 (4 total for the car) is the part number I used but check for your VIN to be sure.
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Use hex socket or spanner.after time they will come out
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Suggestion
Try soaking the thread entry area with "plus gas" penetrating oil.This is the best there is.Do this over several days/nights.Be sure to use a hex socket or spanner.After time they will come out.
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During my 48k major service it was discovered that 3 brake calipers appeared to have seized bleed nipples. Rather than attempt at freeing them the servicing agent thought it best (And me for that matter) to try and rectify away from the garage.
So has anyone got any tips at trying to free them or do you think it's best just to get the calipers re conditioned (They need a bit of a spruce up on the paint front)?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated as i want to get it sorted in order to re new the brake fluid, although at the mo it's fairly clean.
Cheers
Jim :?:
Just done mine recently, all the insides were beyond their sell buy date.
Best bet is to get a local garage with an EZ out to remove them and put new ones in. EZ Out has opposite thread and taps down the centre giving leverage. OPC sell OEM Brembo in pairs for about £9 and it takes a couple of minutes to fit them. You'll have to get the brakes bled at the same time and make sure the threads and surrounding areas are clean and all excess fluid is cleaned off. 930 351 919 00 (4 total for the car) is the part number I used but check for your VIN to be sure. Torque required is only 20NM or so btw, don't overtighten them.
Thanks for the reply mate. I think I'm going enquire at a few local trusted garages to see if they can assist with the EZ Out.
I might take them off the car first just in case they snap and I get stuck at the garage, lol.
Cheers
Jim
Try soaking the thread entry area with "plus gas" penetrating oil.This is the best there is.Do this over several days/nights.Be sure to use a hex socket or spanner.After time they will come out.
Garage has left you to deal with the problem?
Pathetic that's their job,working on cars. Ease, drill or whatever it takes.
Had exactly the same problem with my C4S and OPC - they don't want to risk breaking the nipple, so they hand the problem back to you...... :eh!:
Firstly, you need to purchase new bleed nipples and a bleed kit and the correct brake fluid before you start. Try the plus gas first, but if that fails try some gentle heat. If you have a decent gas torch then, with extreme care, apply some gentle local heat to the nipple and the adjacent calliper. The callipers do of course get extremely hot under heavy braking conditions so its not an abnormal situation. However, intense heat from a gas torch will damage the disk seals. You might have to apply heat more than once, so increase the amount of heat gradually. Having applied heat try a good ring spanner and apply a reasonable amount of pressure. Again, be careful because too much pressure could cause the nipple to break off.
Never re-use a nipple that has been either seized up or heated up as it is liable to early failure.
Again I stress - be very careful on how much heat you apply and the amount of spanner pressure.
Once you have the new brake nipple installed you will need to bleed the brakes.
Proceed with caution and good luck!
I assume EX stands for "easy out" the tapered left hand thread tool - and if so I really warn against inexperienced home mechanics using it generally (unless you are really used to handling taps and dies etc) because if it is the type I am used to and it breaks and you get the broken piece stuck in the calliper it will be scrap or need spark erroding out.
The problem is that the EZ (assuming it is the type I am used to) puts an expanding pressure on the remains of the nipple that actually forces it into the outlying metal even tighter than it was before.
Good luck with it but if you do fail to remove it neatly - it can still be fixed (but not if a broken piece of EZ out is stuck in there).
We do it a different way - we have a jig that lines up a drill central and drills out the old thread. it then puts in a helicoil central - but to make absolutely sure it seals the bottom and doesn't leak we then fit a mandrel that re-cuts the seat perfectly in line with the thread. Not cheap but a very good solution.
Baz
This is why I love this forum!! Thanks for all the advice fella's. Decided I will be trying the oil over time route, then some heat and if not call upon someone trusted to do the drilling, lol.
When it's done i post a follow up.
Cheers
Jim
p.s. Just detailed her so it won't be this weekend, lol.
996 forum members would like to wish you good fortune during the time you spend tweeking,oiling and heating your nipples let us all pray they lacitate with ease
Enjoy!
Any chance you can change the thread title? It makes me wince each time I read it. I get 'Nam like flashbacks of when I had a bleeding nipple and was advised to put TCP on it...
:sad: Just had a mate fit some new rear disc's and pads. Whilst at it we tried the nipple's and they would not flippin' move at all. I've been soaking them for age's now. It looks like they've been over tightened by some inexperienced plonker!!!!
Next step is to get them off the car and try some heat, but I fear this may not work. If it doesn't work has any one on here had them drilled out before by a pro? If so who did you use?
Going to wait for a couple of months as i don't want the car off the road during the good weather. We don't have enough of it and i don't want to miss any runs, lol. The fluid still appears clean and brake feel is good so shouldn't be a problem.
Now just got to bed those pads and discs in SLOWLY, lol. That's one of the hardest parts. Bit embarrassing at the mo as they are making a noise when rolling along, I assume from being new and pads and discs making contact.
Jim
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