60 356B rebuild

Bought this in 2010 as a body only. The guy I bought it off was fed up sourcing parts for this 59 RHD B coupe, so bought a fully restored 60 B from European convertibles in Cali and stripped it off its interior and drivetrain for his 59, and I ended up buying the 60 body off him on a frame. This is how it was when I got it in 2011 Anyway, spent a while living overseas in Ireland, and life etc got in the way and last weekend decided to pull it out of the garage and get her back together and on the road. Since getting it, I sourced a 356 SC engine from the US,  gearbox, drums, spindles etc and have it rolling. It came with all the reject stuff from the guy's 59, so I have seats and window frames and all the glass. Bought one of the last PGI 356 front windscreens for it for $180 before they closed up in Australia. Will start by getting the drivetrain, steering and brakes/mechanicals all back together and working, then put in the wiring loom, interior carpets and headlining. It was fully restored in 2008 by a renowned 356 restorer Bill Hamilton in Texas, so at least I am not dealing with any body rust issues. This was it back in 2010 whilst it was for sale at European Convertibles. Hopefully I can get it back to looking like this soon! Should be fun!

love a good build thread subscribed

Looks a solid car.  It is a T5? They are relatively easy cars to work on mechanically. There is a similar car here (but an SC '64) in the same colour that I am doing a bit of work on.

Yep it's a T5. I actually have an aussie delivered 58 A coupe as well, and even though I am less fond of B's the T5 shares a lot of body characteristics with the A, such as rounded bonnet, single rear grille decklid etc. [

A transition car is always interesting.  I am playing around with this at the moment (dozens of small things to fix for originality), but clearly not a 356. Sept 1960, also a transition. So like working on the 356 but just easier.

Liking the '60 @Merv 👍

Thanks Lee. Last owner 50 years. Very solid car.  Doing up the steering wheel now. I have this hankering  for twin carbies that I need to deal with...

Quotes source post: 342698

Want my opinion? Well ya gunna get it anyway 😁 Each to their own of course, yet I'd stick to a single, but a little bit bigger carb mate. My old '61 Karmann Ghia with a standard dual port 1600 drove much better, with better throttle response when I swapped the twin carb set up to a single. I can't remember the size or make of the carb (maybe 36mm?), yet I felt I didn't lose much power at all, and it actually felt better off the line

Merv, have you considered going with an Okrasa setup? Not sure if your car is a 36hp or 40hp engine as I think 60/61 was the transition to the 40hp. There is however a kit for both, a good quality repro for the 36hp is sold by Wolfsburgwest complete with carbs and dual port heads:- https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111198700 Cheers Steve

Thanks Steve.  I didn't mean to steal your interesting thread. The '60VW is the 40-HP which was rebuilt about 7 years ago.  I runs well and I am inclined to pull it down when I take it out to clean the oil cooler and replace some of the exhaust parts (j-tubes and  flapper boxes if I can get them and the push rod tubes).  A mate here has just done the Okrasa set up you mention. on his '57 and it looks good and goes well.  I am inclined to leave this '60, as is, at this stage however. If I want more power I have a couple of Porsches, one of which has over 400HP more than the VW 😯 . Time will tell however and the WW parts keep flowing in.

Great looking 356 I also have a ‘60 T5 B sing out if your chasing any parts or information, & keep the updates of the resto coming 👍

Thanks a lot Quackers, I have been working out all the wiring. I got a loom with the car that apart from having crusty terminals and fuse box is in good condition but has been chopped where it goes down the tunnel to the back of the car. I have an NOS fuse box that I picked up years ago that I can use, and I will be using a trick that an ex-Qantas engineer told me about, which is to dip the terminals in a 70% proof Nitric Acid, followed by a dip in 30% sulphuric acid, which I think electro platers call Brite-dip. The Nitric acid dissolves the copper and crud and the sulphuric acid makes it shiny and bright. Here is a VW beetle loom afterwards:- I am concentraing on the drivetrain first. I need to get the king and link pins rebuilt, and I am missing a clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing, so need to purchase a clutch kit from somewhere. I am missing the pivot and arm part for the handbrake mechanism that mounts on the beam. I can't believe how much the prices of 356 parts have gone up over the last 10 years! The clutch kit is looking like USD$550 which will be nearly $800 landed here! Cheers Steve

Quotes source post: 345395

US$550 is a rip off. SMC are selling the kits as low as US$122 and right now they have a 15% promo https://sierramadrecollection.com/356a-55-59-/transmission-amp-clutch/clutch-c712/ I have a beam cutout under the house Steve, I don't think it has the bracket but will double check

Quotes source post: 342562

i'm very jealous of the condition of your tail lights. Mines strato blue

Thanks Raf, I think you have completed about 7 or 8 cars whilst I am still messing around with my first!

Thanks Russ.  Those 50/50 (Australia/Italy) tail light lenses are ultra rare I gather.  I wouldn't mind some spares! Send me a photo of your car Russ, on a PM if you can.

Quotes source post: 345395

Hi Steve, great stuff buddy, how do we get in touch I have new king pin sets, Sachs clutches and most if not all of those items circled.that is if your interested.