What will be needed on a high mileage C4S?

I'm thinking about picking up a 2002 C4S with 70K miles and using it as a daily. So far, the car has been well maintained, so I'm just curious what might I expect to need to replace as it gets to say, 120K miles+ (outside of normal wear and tear items like brakes, etc). Will this end up being a good idea? Thanks!

The issues are in the process of being addressed.

My 2003 C4S had 65k And I'm in the process of installing an LS3 GM engine cause the IMS blew for the original owner. That's another story. I'm also rebuilding and checking out everything else on the car. So far I've found a left front and rt rear wheel bearings with alot of play, replaced. The frt strut upper plate bearings dryed out, easy take apart and regrease on those. The Frt struts still have lots of rebound. Transmission mount and the upper strut mounts where deteriated and cracked. The Guilbo (U-joint substatute) going to the frt drive was also deteriated and I replaced. I haven't taken the rear struts apart yet. Once the engine is replaced and I figure out the ride height I'll probably change springs/struts.

You bought a used car. It's very likely that the car was being used for test drives, demos, and personal errands by staff. I would *guess* that the car was received by the dealership with 98 miles, and listed as such, despite additional miles being clocked. I would *guess* that the listing wasn't updated each time the car was driven to reflect additional miles. If this is the tip of the iceberg, where's the rest of it?

I drive my 2002 C4S every day. I just rolled 123K miles. Here are a few things you'll probably see in the next 50K miles: - Water pump (should be changed every 50 - 60K miles as a preventative measure) - Ignition coils (these can crack and fail over time) - Front suspension bushings - Front strut mount bearings (you'll hear rattling over speed bumps. This one isn't cheap) - Window regulator(s) (these wear out every so often. The fix isn't too expensive) - Motor mounts - Cooling fans and/or fan regulators - I had to rebuild my front differential, but this is pretty uncommon - I had to replace my windshield wiper motor, but I believe this is also uncommon - My C4S is tough on batteries. They only last a couple of years. I know this sounds like a long list, but overall the C4S has been very reliable as a DD. I highly recommend it. Good luck!

December 17th 2014? That was months ago 8 months ago. Why is this only coming up now? The damage to the car would have been enough for me to ship it back immediately and get my money back. Very unfortunate but it's a bit late now I think to do anything about it.

If it has the original clutch still, that most likely won't last until 120k. People report 30k-60k as typical; I had to replace mine at 92k. No receipts for clutch work so I'm under the assumption is was stock. I'll second what Dennis said about engine mounts and strut mounts. Uneven exhaust tips and heavy vibration at idle are indicators of blown mounts. Easy, easy DIY fix.

Umm, that's not the current mileage display. That's the total miles left until an empty fuel tank.

I'm on my second clutch at 123K miles. I suspect it will need to be changed fairly soon. I will most likely change the IMSB to an aftermarket ceramic bearing while they've got it apart.

That is not the odometer showing 98 miles, it is range till empty (the odo is on the speedo gauge). Someone got confused when they took the photo as proof of mileage. That doesn't change the fact that someone drove the car 90 miles after the oil change and the other issues, particularly paint, which seems very severe.

other items to consider, aire-oil separator switches go bad, such as starting switch, window switch, driving box 4 stalk with the clockspring. but the most expensive switch to go are the seat belt contacts. i use mine as a DD and it is very reliable. oh, yes. the cats go at about 80,001 miles. they are warrnateed to 80k. good luck JB

When did you install the Passport?

Very good stuff, thank you all for posting!

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Quote: I didn't, it was on the car when I received it.

Funny, my 99 Carrera just hit 84k and it started shuddering and idle rough 2 days ago. I'm driving home, so I can see what's wrong, and the voltage started dropping like 10 mins later. Alt just died. Put in the new alt yesterday, but idle is still rough. Drives fine....Motor mounts then I guess? Huh Dennis? My name is Dennis too. Thanks for the info. Other than this recent issue, the car has been running great as a daily driver. Putting in plugs this wk end. NGK Copper, I guess?

....

Maybe motor mounts... maybe coils... any CEL? Glad to see another Dennis enjoying 996 ownership...

I would have put the car back in the trailer for it's return trip to Scottsdale.

No CEL. Ill be looking more into the engine this wk end, but the rumble at idle seems like the engine shaking the car. I bet it is a motor mount. If so, go billet?

Not to excuse the dealer for misrepresentation, but you were buying a used car. You should have spent a few hundred dollars and had it inspected by someone. That's remote buying 101. What is the dealers position on all this?

If I were buying a C4S with 80k miles and wanted it to be mechanically sound. I would: upgrade IMSB new rear main seal new clutch (machine flywheel) new slave cylinder AOS spark plugs cabin filter fluids

That is my local dealer. I purchased my car used through them as well. I did inspect it in person though. What has been Penske's response to this? Which salesman/dealer representative are you dealing through? Feel free to PM me if you do not want to discuss this here.

I think I'd go with the OEM RS semi-solid motor mounts. I wouldn't go with solid mounts on a street car.

While the Vanquish is all CF, AM has lots of experience painting the several CF body panels on the DBS over a 5 year period and around 3500 cars, so AM have no excuse if this is a result of poor panel prep.

Good point Dennis. The car will probably still shudder. I'll look into the semi-solid ones. I did purchase my 99 Carrera with about 70K miles, and just now had the first issue. Why fix things that may not be busted? Have a good mechanic look her over and replace what it needs. If I did an IMSB replacement, I would just rebuild the whole engine while it was out. Funny thing is my 2004 996TT has just hit 40K miles and I had to replace about 10 grand worth of things so far. It is a beast though, and I love it!!!!!My daily driver with double the miles is doing fine. I usually just cruz in that. I do not believe pushing it helps, like most people say. The IMSB's are sealed, so high oil pressure would not help that issue. Right?

Being a '14 car, bought from a AM dealership, certainly it has warranty remaining. There is no way they can deny a warranty claim on the leather and paint issues...the scrape to the diffuser you likely will have to settle with AM of Scottsdale. Although I did not purchase my AM (when I had it) from AM of Scottsdale, I had it serviced there as well as a few other issues taken care of (air bag sensors etc...) and always found them to be very professional.

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Quote: agree with you on this. also replace battery without hesitation every year. big Interstate is good. the IMS fix is the big one. I did mine just to sleep easier at night. engine does not have to come out. while doing that also do the RMS, and clutch. I didnt do the AOS or change out the coilpacks. Probably would now, just thinking about it. At this point the cost/peace of mind ratio is wacky anyway.

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Most of that will be covered by warranty. However, there's no excuse for them sending you the car without fixing (let alone disclosing) any of the damage. Was there any kind of PPI done? Any paperwork showing condition of the vehicle would help. In my opinion, the vast majority of the issues are covered by warranty - so they should have been taken care of by the dealership while they had the car. They should make amends by paying to have the car shipped back, and then fix everything so you get the car you agreed to. Quote: Lol, yeah, that post grew substantially after I posted about it.

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Quote: careful about stealing away this thread from the original topic. Lauren would not be pleased. But, that said, have you run a Durametric and checked the codes? I'd sure do that before changing out the mounts. good luck.

Used car = caveat emptor! As others have said, look to your warranty. Side note: 8 months later is suspect.

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Quote: You received a lot of responses and most would have you rebuilding the car. I say that's just crazy. If the car needed that kind of work at 70K miles what would it need in another 70K miles, or even 35K miles? Buy a good well maintained car. Do not over pay for it. Drive the car and keep the car serviced and enjoy the car. Chances are nothing serious will go wrong with the car. If you want to as a preventative measure do the IMSB that's your call. But if something does go wrong fix it. My 02 Boxster needed nothing but a wheel bearing from 0 miles to 80K miles. If I had listened to all that said I had to replace this at 40K, that at 50K, those at 45K miles I would have spent two fortunes on the car. As it is I have put over 265K miles on the car and while things have worn out there are a lot of original pieces still doing their job. 3 wheel bearings (the 4th one replaced at 80K miles), clutch, engine, radiators, hoses, A/C system, starter, alternator, secondary air pump, e-Gas pedal and throttle body, coils. I've worn out door latches, window regulators, brake light and clutch interlock switches, rear trunk struts, a couple of batteries, water pump, fuel pump and the biggie was a VarioCam solenoid/actuator. My 03 Turbo which has the same AWD as the 4S is on its original front diff, half shaft CV bearings, CV boots (the Boxster's lasted for over 200K miles). The techs tell me the AWD system is very robust. Be sure the car has not been fitted with a goofy setup of mismatched tires/wheels though.

I just reported on things that have broken and have been repaired or replaced. I think the C4S is a very reliable car and a robust design. However, things wear out and things break. My car has always been driven on recommended tire sizes and my differential wore out. It can happen.