Brake bleeding. Help!

OK. I've picked the Motive Power bleeder, picked ATE Super blue, Pagid pads, then I realized I haven't bled brakes in over 20 years!!! I rebuilt and maintained a 1967 Mustang, but that was 25 years ago. How does one actually bleed brakes on the 996 C4S? I understand the principles behind it, as well as the specifics on power bleeding, but I have never actually done it on the modern disc brake. I also realized I don't even know where the bleeder nipple is on these suckers. Talk about theory running smack into reality. How about some help?

If you live in the Seattle area Squire's autowerkes would be your best source of help. If not you can reach him at [phone removed]. Tell him willard sent you but he would probably be willing to help in any case. Maybe now you see why I don't even trust myself for jobs that are basically needless (**) but potentially life threatening. ** Unless you drive and brake pretty damn hard.

Here's what I do with the Motive Power Bleeder for a fluid flush. To do a full flush you will need at least one can of brake fluid. Start by jacking up the car and removing the wheels. 1. Remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. 2. Remove the plastic screen using a pair of needle nose pliers. This can be a little bit challenging. but it will pop off (careful with the brake fluid!). 3. Use a syringe (or turkey baster... just don't reuse it) and suck out as much of the old fluid as possible. 4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Put the rest in the power bleeder. Screw the cap that came with the power bleeder onto the master cylinder reservoir. 5. Put the pressure cap w/pump handle on the power bleeder & pump it up to just under 20 psi (don't go over 20 psi!). 6. Porsche says you don't have to do this but I do. Right rear. Left rear. Right front. Left front. I bleed the clutch while I do the right rear. If you want to do the clutch let me know it's a little tricky. 7. Place your drain tube over the outside bleed nipple and in the bottle (remember it will need to hold a liter when you are done). 8. Open the bleed screw until the fluid start to flow. 9. Wait until the fluid changes to colors and no bubbles are seen in the fluid. 10. Carefully tighten the bleed screw. 11. Wipe off the area and replace the rubber protective cap over the bleed screw. 12. Repeat steps 7-11 for the interior bleed screw and then move on to the next wheel. Also, it makes sense to check the pressure and amount of fluid in the bleed between wheels. Running out of fluid means starting over and getting air out.

Thanks, Loren. I knew, no matter where, you would be the one to help . I saved the post on my hard drive. Willwest, I've already done 2 DE's, and have another 2 day event to do. I've moved up a class, was supposed to move up again but I elected to stay behind so that there is less peer pressure. I expect the tires, pads and brake fluid to be well "used" by then. I like to "use" the car, and be safe. I've mounted a Halon fire extinguisher by the passenger seat. Bleeding the brakes is just one more way to play with my toy .

If you wish to "play" with your toy's brakes may I politely suggest purchasing a set of "track" pads, no one cares about squealing out "there". And don't forget that your inexperenced experimenting with your brakes is also putting your fellow DE drivers at risk.

[quote]Originally posted by willwest: <strong>If you wish to "play" with your toy's brakes may I politely suggest purchasing a set of "track" pads, no one cares about squealing out "there". And don't forget that your inexperenced experimenting with your brakes is also putting your fellow DE drivers at risk.</strong><hr></blockquote> Alright, willwest . Pagid brakes ARE track pads. And as far as inexperience, it's like riding a bicycle. The bicycle may now have an alloy frame and 36 speeds unlike my old 1 speed steel bike, but it's still a bicycle. And I promise I will not experiment but use only tried and true techniques as well as products, such as Loren's advice in the earlier post. Boy, for somebody named WildWest, you seem pretty tame!

Bicycles. I have a 78 911 Porsche Targa and I simply can't think of anything about it I wouldn't tear into with some relish, Dog-eared Haynes manual by my side. Been there, done that. The 01 C4... Well, like riding that bicycle, I can still drive it. Not "WILD" West, Willard West, sometimes known as "Willard the Wizard". I turned 62 last month, got here by being conservative. (NOT republican)

Just a follow-up. Power bleeding is definitely the way to go. Easy as can be. Brakes are now rock solid. And I mean SOLID! And I didn't really think it needed to be bled yet! Amazing how things can creep up on you. Pads are still in good shape, so they'll stay in a while. Thanks to the board for the ideas, and to Loren for the specifics. Anybody doing here doing DE at Mid-Ohio or Beaver Run in October ?

I have not tried to pressure bleed the brakes on my new 996 yet but will later this month. On the earlier models there was a vent hose on the reservor that you had to clamp off to keep pressure on the system. Is this not the case on the 996?

Didn't see any on the 2002 C4S. Hooked up the power bleeder, pumped it up, and the pressure held. Pumped it up a bit each time I bled to compensate for the released fluid. Took a dinner break between tire #3 and #4 and kept the pump pumped up. It held the pressure steady until I came back

Roger, Ron M and I dismantled my trunk at BIR one day looking for the vent. Turns out there isn't one.

Guess one should be careful how full you fill it then, huh? Thanks for the info.