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YOUR RESEARCHHow thin can brake rotors get, anyway?
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Replace with dodson by baker performance 10k miles ago
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- Tranny fluid swapped with Dodson by Baker performance 10k miles ago.
Leading evidence: 'Replace with dodson by baker performance 10k miles ago' (no explicit attributable resolution; this is a reported action or suggestion). Across 1 matching discussions, The most frequently discussed action is 'Replace ; the rears will go longer' (1 discussions). For that action, 0 discussions report a resolution and 0 report an unsuccessful attempt. No action has an explicit, attributable resolution report under the current rules. These are forum reports and suggestions, not a confirmed diagnosis.
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Suggestion
I'm figuring I'll get about 90-100K out of the front rotors so will change them next pad change; the rears will go longer.
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Suggestion
I had the same questions about brake pads and changing the brake fluid when I talked to a Porsche Tech recently.
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Suggestion
For what it's worth, I did a 4-wheel pad change on my '02 996 at about 48,000 miles.
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Suggestion
Unless it makes a small hole when the limit is reached, I guess I'll just have to use the micrometre measurement tool when its getting close to the limit.
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My '99 has a new motor, a recently rebuilt transmission, and healthy suspension, but it's also got what I have to assume are the original rotors with 90k miles on them.
They're well worn, with a big lip around the outside, peaks and valleys throughout the radius matching the cross-drilled holes, etc. But there's no sign of warping or squeaks, the pads are fine and the car stops like a champ. I do the occasional autocross, but here in Florida I don't have to worry about overheating the brakes while coming down a mountain.
So how long can brake rotors last, anyway?!?
Thinner the rotors, the less unsprung weight and the faster the car, eh?
-Dave
Melbourne Beach, Florida
Year:
2009
Make:
Nissan
Model:
GT-R
Price:
$51000
Mileage:
70500
Color:
Black
Private or Dealer Listing:
Private Listing
Location (State):
NJ
Transmission:
Automatic
Drivetrain:
4WD & AWD
CAR IS SOLD!
History: Car was bought used with an extended warranty package (still has a month left on it) from Country Chevrolet in Virginia with 39k on it and was owned by a military person in Florida who drove it a lot. I then got engaged, but still maintained by job in VA, and it being my only car took a lot of trips to Virginia from NJ. This car has ZERO launches. I can prove this to anyone via ecutek readout of the launch counts from the ECU/TCM modules. The car has been garaged kept its whole life. It's reliable as any regular nissan and gets 21mpg on 93 and around 16 on E85. It scoots.
The GOOD (mods list):
- Ecutek with cable and Ben Linney tune for 91/93/E70/E85. This includes rolling boost and all the features from Phase 4 racerom.
-Car has AAM premium variable exhaust. There is a switch to the left of the steering wheel you hold it the valve opens and closes to change the tone. Go from quiet as stock to loud as you could want in seconds. See video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwsca-jVRs8
- SBD intakes
- SBD Turbo Inlets
- Catted (for those who worry about emissions) agency power downpipes.
- AAM Mid Pipe
- Curt Brown Ported and polished intake manifold.
- GFB BOV. (have stock)
- Asnu 1050cc 14 hole injectors
- Walbro upgraded Dual fuel pumps.
- Remote start module that uses OEM keyfob to remote start the vehicle.
- 2013 Premium seats (different stitch pattern..got them for a steal so swapped them in..you wouldnt notice unless I told you).
- CF rear spats
- Rexspeed CF side skirts.
- Password JDM front lip (this needs reconditioning)
- JBL amp and Sub woofer mounted professionally in sub box within stock sub enclosure.
- Buschur coolant expansion tank
- optima yellow top recently installed
- I have mint 2014 GTR black edition wheels on the car with R888s that are about done, but have the 09 wheels (with one curb mark) with BFG Rival tires with plenty of life and their own TPMS ready to swap in or go with the car.
- DBA brake rotors, will need swapped out in 4-5k miles.
- Tranny fluid swapped with Dodson by Baker performance 10k miles ago. New motul diff fluid in front and back also installed.
- Car hasnt been dynoed, but on E85 should be 600whp, about 560whp on 93. It walks 600-750cc sport bikes without trouble.
- TITLE IN HAND!
The BAD:
- Car was bumped by some ******* at Dulles airport in drivers rear quarter. It was given a quick pop by a PDR guy for free to get rid of most of it, but its an $1863 fix from the best body shop in Northern Virginia ( i can refer you to the GTR guy who works there who got me that price). It barely shows in pictures, but its there.
- Front bumper is basically done, but i have a fresh near Mint 09 black GTR bumper ready to swap in. Never did it, since might as well let the crappy one take the highway beatings.
- A bolt was stripped swapping out the rear sway bar and the job was never completed. I have the new whiteline end links and eibach rear sway bar ready to go though to fix it completely. Also have front eibach bar.
- Usual paint issues from a car with 70k miles on it.
This is a well cared for GTR that wasnt abused, and maybe saw redline 2 times. Zero launches. Always mobil 1 oil changes from the dealer. Discounted because of the issues above Ive disclosed up front. Easily 10k+ in go fast and fun stuff parts... (btw I do have some of the stock parts).
51k!
Take the wheel off and look at the disc, rotate it and you will find a wear indicator on the outer edge.
If the disc is worn down to the indicator it must be changed.
The wear indicator looks this:
Non potato phone pics!
Engine with CF cover, have stock.
rear spats.
ECUtek cable and Amp.
This is a trunk.
2013 Seats.
Cockpit.
CF side Skirts and front lip (needs reconditioning!)
Spare bumper and stock wheels with good tires.
I believe that there are minimum rotor thickness specs posted on
www.renntech.org
. You can get the specs and then measure your rotors at various places with calipers to see if you're within spec. FWIW - Porsche recommends changing the rotors each time the pads are changed. It's unlikely that these are your original pads (although not impossible).
Minimum thickness is actually stamped on the rotors. The service manual also shows "new" and minimum thickness as follows:
Front: 28 mm new, 26 mm minimum
Rear: 24 mm new, 22 mm minimum
Measure the thickness where the pads actually contact the rotor (i.e. not the "lip").
For what it's worth, I did a 4-wheel pad change on my '02 996 at about 48,000 miles. The front rotors had worn about 1 mm (and the pads were about "done"), the rear rotors had worn only about 2/3 mm (and the pads were perhaps half "done"). I'm figuring I'll get about 90-100K out of the front rotors so will change them next pad change; the rears will go longer. This is on a car that sees primarily highway/road trip miles, not a daily driver or tracked. Your mileage may vary.
Quote:
I can't see this being entirely accurate as the pad swept area does not go out all the way to the edge. Therefore the edge never wears down. You can eyeball it and get a decent idea I suppose but not down to fractions of a mm.
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For the 5 years I've been checking mine it has been relatively easy to see their still OK. Unless it makes a small hole when the limit is reached, I guess I'll just have to use the micrometre measurement tool when its getting close to the limit.
Quote:
I wish the stock rotors came with a more easier indicator like Balo rotors or other aftermarket rotors with the dimples in them to indicate if they are still good or not. That way you don't even have to take off the wheels.
I do like that kind of dummy indicator on my Continental DW and DWS tires though.
Quote:
That's a tough question to answer because it really depends on how you drive the car and what performance level you really need. I suspect that for most daily driving uses, you can let the rotors go down below the minimum by a bit. However, if you want to keep the car at the factory performance levels (or better), then you're probably done when the rotors hit the factory specs for the minimum.
I had the same questions about brake pads and changing the brake fluid when I talked to a Porsche Tech recently. What he told me is that factory specs are pretty strict -- for example, it's not just about stopping power for the brakes. They are tested to handle a certain number of hard braking maneuvers with a minimal amount of brake fade. At some point, if the pads and/or rotors are low, or the fluid hasn't been changed, the brakes won't meet these performance levels. However, these specs are more relevant to something you'd see in a track or high performance driving environment, but typically not on the street.
In the end, since I enjoy track events too, I keep the car at factory specs or better.
The GTR buyer pool for the early cars is tough... the guy that bought mine paid with 3 separate car loans from 3 separate lenders...
I feel your pain! GLWS!
Most dealers will tell you that they don't change just pads anymore. Rotors are always done at the same time.
Safest way is to measure the thickness with a caliper in several places. You shouldn't even need to take the wheel off.
